On September 24^th the charity auction Only Watch will be held in Monaco. Many of the most prestigious Swiss watch brands created a unique watch for this charity event that is held during the Monaco Yacht Show.

All the proceeds of the Only Watch charity auction will be donated to the research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The next Only Watch auction is organized in close collaboration with Patrizzi & Co and the Monaco Yacht Show, and is under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco.

Only Watch 2009 Quai de i'Ile dial close-up

Especially for Only Watch 2009 Vacheron Constantin created it’s first tantalum watch. Vacheron Constantin decided to create a tantalum Quai de l’Ile.  Christian Selmoni, head of Product Marketing, says this choice was made because it fits into the research spirit needed when fighting against a disease as Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

The case exists of 10 parts which are fixed to a titanium inner case. The function of this titanium inner case is to hold the movement in place. This inner case itself consists of 7 pieces. The case of the Quai de l’Ile is far more sophisticated than that of a normal case.

Vacheron Constantin Quai de i'lle for Only Watch 2009

The heart of the case, flanks and bezel sections are considered as three “interchangeable” components. On ‘normal’ Vacheron Constantin Quai de l’Ile models this allows personal customisation with three different metals – Palladium, Titanium and Pink Gold. This unique piece for Only Watch 2009 is entirely made of tantalum, except the flanks. The flanks of the watch are made of palladium.

Tantalum is a very rare and noble metal, not only because of the qualities of the metal but also because it’s unique, very dark, look. Unlike other metals used on watches, the dark color is not achieved by adding coatings or other treatments, but it is the metal’s natural color.

Only Watch 2009 Quai de i'Ile dial close-up

The dial and crystal are also far from usual. The Maltese cross symbol and the numbers 12, 3, 6 and 9 are linked into the sapphire by using multiple layers technology, called galvanic growth. The other numerals are laser engraved then inked in white ink.

Furthermore, the Only Watch Quai de l’Ile features a dark red minute track engraved and painted on a lower part of the whole dial. Finally, on the inside ring of the dial, there is an outer subdial which has a decorative 3D engraving representing the logo “Only Watch”. “Only” is engraved and “Watch” is in relief, so that when the light hits the sapphire crystal the name “Only Watch” appears in three dimensions.

At the Only Watch 2009 website all the 34 unique pieces and their specifications can be found.

I recently blogged about the world’s first automatic chronograph, caliber 11, mdevelopped by Heuer, Breitling, Buren en Dubois-Depraz. Not much later Zenith launched their first automatic chronograph, the famous El Primero. This means that the Zenith also celebrates the 40th of the El Primero. To celebrate this Zenith comes with 5 Anniversary models.

Caliber 3019 - the first El Primero

The El Primero was developed in 1969 and rapidly became a standard of reference among automatic movements. The El Primero is still considered by many to be the best automatic chronograph. The first was a caliber 3019 column wheel chronograph with 31 jewels, beating at 36,000 beat per hour, it capable of measuring short time intervals to 1/10th second.

The El Primero with it’s precision enables it to succeed in passing the tests of the COSC (Swiss Official Control of Chronometers). The chronograph function can be operated with two push-buttons and it features an instantaneous date-change mechanism. It has a power reserve of more than 50 hours and this  movement can be fitted with other complications, like a date-day-month indicator, a moonphase and a fly-back.

Although i love the heritage of Zenith’s El Primero movement i’m not that crazy about the more recent design Zenith’s watches featuring this beautiful and admirable automatic chronograph. I think these Anniversary models proof my opinion about the recent design   Take a look at two of the Anniversary models Zenith released celebrate the 40th birthday of their world famous chronograph.

For more news about pre Basel releases check Perpetuelle.com

Zenith Class Anniversary

Zenith Port Royal Anniversary

Nu de beurs in Basel op volle toeren bezig is komen alle merken met hun nieuwste paradepaardjes. Maar daar zitten soms ook vreselijke klokjes bij!

Wat mij betreft is deze Zenith Mega Port Royal Tourbillon een bijzonder onhandig en lelijk horloge, maar toen ik het verkooppraatje erbij las schoot ik toch echt in de lach!

Taking inspiration directly from the urban and futuristic jungles of New York and Tokyo, the Port Royal Collection came into being when two epochs collided. From Metropolises to Megalopolises, Port Royal has taken one step further towards an avant-garde design by offering these new 2008 models with cases of even more massive and straight-edged architecture. Unique power, exaggerated proportions, athletic build, tight lines. The symbol of absolute virility, wearing a Mega Port Royal means channelling all one’s energy to one’s wrist. The individual can control his fate thanks to the taming of his inner strength, like a modern-day Samurai putting his entire strike force into a single punch to the heart of his timepiece. In other words, this is not a watch you can entrust to just anyone’s hands.