URWERK released a new version in the 200 collection, the URWERK 203. It’s main difference with the rest of the collection, is that it reveals its micro-mechanics for all to see.

The URWERK 203’s case is made of black platinum, a great addition next to the rose & white gold and the AlTiN coated URWERK 202. AITiN was also used for the URWERK 103 Tarantula. However the main difference is it shows the robotic functions of URWERK’s mechanisms to show time.

Robotics? Yes robotics, because URWERK doesn’t use an hour and minute hand like the majority of mechanical watches. The satellite complication is the nerve centre of the UR-203, crafted from ARCAP P40, a stable non-ferrous and non-magnetic alloy. The intricate structure is skelletonized to reveal the internal clockwork. Within the UR-203 the cams, the rubies and the transporters that ensure the alignment of the telescopic hands indicating the minutes, are all revealed.

The telescopic minute hands precisely adjust their length to follow the three vectors marking the minutes: 0 -14; 15 – 44; 45 – 60. Extended, they enable the UR-203 to display the time across a large easy-to-read, dial. Retracted, they allow for a smaller, comfortably sized case providing the wearer with the best of both worlds.

To make a stripped down model distilled to its pure essence, like Martin Frei (URWERK co-founder and designer) wanted, they had to start again at the beginning. Felix Baumgartner, URWERK co-founder and master watchmaker, says they sat down at the drawing board and completely reconsidered the satellite module. “The horological challenge with this complication was to develop a complex mechanism with the minimum of components to ensure its reliability and longevity.”

Now the carousel, hour satellites, telescopic minute hands and dial weigh 65% less than the proceeding model (UR-202). The satellite complication now tips the scales at a feather-light 3.57 grams.

Click on the photo to enlarge

The dial shows an «Oil Change» indicator and a 150 year «Horological Odometer». The «Oil Change» indicator informs the wearer when a service is due; an operation recommended every three years of movement operation. Similar to the odometer of a car, the UR-203’s «Horological Odometer» keeps track of the total number of years of operation of the movement.

The UR-203 is also equipped with URWERK’s double turbine system, the same automatic winding system that is used in the watches of the 200 collection. The turbines are mounted on rubies and are controlled by a three-position lever offering the choice of « FREE », « SPORT » or « STOP ». The position determines the force available from the automatic rotor to wind the mainspring. FREE, where the turbines spin freely; SPORT, where the air pressure generated by the turbines reduces the winding rate by approximately 35%; and STOP, where the turbines and rotor are fully blocked. The speed of the turbines can reach a maximum 16,500 RPM.

Check out the URWERK website for more details and other models.

One of the things that really amazed me this year was the lack of pre-releases before the Salon International de Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). Now the SIHH 2010 is almost finished, the pre-releases for Baselworld are already here!

The only serieous SIHH pre-release came from Lange und Söhne. In December i already posted the new Lange 1 Daymatic, which instantly became my favorite Lange 1 and probably my favorite from this great manufacterer from Germany. After the SIHH started earlier this week, press releases about new models all come at the same time. It’s impossible to cover them all, so i’ll show a few of my favorite models. One is another novelty of Lange und Söhne that is just so good i have to show it. For all new Lange und Söhne models, check out Perptuelle.com’s overview.

Last year A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk was one of the biggest hits of the SIHH novelties. This year Lange und Söhne comes with another surprise, the Zeitwerk Luminous. Or as the people at Lange & Söhne called it, the Zeitwerk Phantom.

A. Lange und Söhne Zeitwerk Luminous... the Phantom?

Another watch that got me really exited comes from Girard Perregaux. And again it’s from the 1966 collection, a collection that got me exited before. The new Girard Perregaux 1966 Chronograph has the looks of a classic chronograph. The movement surprised me! It’s an automatic movement and i somehow expected to see a manually wound caliber. Girard-Perregaux movement GP030C0 is a column wheel chronograph with a 30 minute counter.

Girard Perregaux 1966 Chronograph

When i’m back from my vacation it’s time to share more about the Baselworld novelties!

Lange & Söhne present their new Lange 1 Daymatic. With a completely new automatic movement with a centrally placed rotor! Will this be my new favorite Lange 1?

Lange & Söhne present their first SIHH 2010 novelty, a new Lange 1… automatic! Yes it’s kind of shocking, at least at first. A Lange 1 with an automatic movement. The Lange 1 collection has been applauded world wide by watch lovers, for it’s beautiful manually wound movement. I can only imagine it’s been quite a discussion at Lange & Söhne before they decided to come with the first Lange 1 with an automatic movement. Another first is the centrally placed rotor. In the press release Lange & Söhne states it’s the beginning of a new era. Now i’m curious what plans Lange & Söhne has??

Lange & Söhne - Lange 1 Daymatic

The Lange 1 has been Lange & Söhne’s most recognizable watch for 15 years. Famous for it’s off-centre dial arrangement  and patented outsize date display. I think the new Lange 1 Daymatic is a true revolution for this brand. Not only because the automatic movement with central rotor… The Daymatic’s mirrored dial layout features a retrograde day-of-week indication. The hour and minute hands are now on the right side. Because most people wear their watch on the left wrist, for them this is an advantage. When you pull back your sleeve, the first thing you will see is the most important information: the time.

Lange & Söhne - Lange 1 Daymatic

Below the outsize date at the top left, is the retrograde day-of-week display, replacing the power-reserve indicator. Good choice, since a self-winding watch does not require a power-reserve indicator. The date and day-of-week displays can be advanced with two push pieces.

The entire Lange 1 collection is famous for it’s manually wound movement with a twin mainspring barrel for a power reserve of three days and the three quarter plate. So seeing a Lange 1 with an automatic movement was a bit of a shock. Especially the central rotor, which is also a first for Lange & Söhne. The central rotor with platinum winding mass occupies the entire 31.6-millimeter diameter of the movement. The  on the outer rim of the rotor transforms even the most subtle gestures of the wrist into kinetic winding energy. When fully wound, the mainspring has a power reserve of 50 hours.

3 versions of the Lange 1 Daymatic

The new calibre L021.1 beats at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour, like the movements used in other Lange 1 models. Typical for Lange it features a hand-engraved balance cock, an index-less oscillation system based on a large balance wheel with eccentric poising weights as well as a balance spring developed and manufactured in-house.

The Lange 1 Daymatic is available in yellow gold, pink gold or platinum and has a diameter of 39.5 millimeters. That’s almost one millimeter larger than the Lange 1.

In my opinion this is the best Lange 1 to this date. Let me explain why…

• Although i admire the manually wound movement of other Lange 1 models, the automatic movement is actually more convenient.
• Personally i don’t see the necessity of a power-reserve indicator on an automatic movement is obsolete, so another good choice.
• I also like the slightly large size and i think it’s wise Lange & Söhne didn’t follow the big-bigger-biggest hype.
• The day of the week display is very clear, like the large date, and is a function that’s very convenient.

OK… and i think it’s a BEAUTIFUL watch…

The Watch Factory was a small sideshow exhibition at Baselworld 2009. Although it was the first time for this extra exhibition for Independent Haute Horlogerie, it was a huge success. Next year it The Watch Factory will be over the course of the SIHH and Baselworld.

During this year’s Baselworld (2009) i spent most of my time at the booths of Independent Watchmakers. Why? The atmosphere was more relaxed, no tight schedules, a chance to talk to the watchmaker himself in stead of a sales person, the chance to ask questions in stead of listening to that sales person who has been ‘broadcasting’ the same 30 minute ‘programme’ 15 times a day and 7 days a week during Baselworld. I know, this might sound harsh, but i have to be honest. The bigger the brand, the less open and informative they are (this is at least my opinion). One huge exeption must be mentioned… Glashütte Original’s new managing director, Thomas Meier, gave a most impressive (and funny) presentation at Baselworld 2009.

Grégory Pons has recently announced on Business Montres that The Watch Factory will be presenting in Geneva over the course of the SIHH: 17-24 January 2010. And it looks to be bigger than before, with 20 – 30 brands expected to participate.

This initiative is an excellent idea for two reasons:

1. It allows smaller brands and independents a cost effective vehicle for presenting to the public, journalists and collectors.

2. The public and watch aficionados, who are not allowed at the ‘professionals only’ SIHH will have a chance to see a large selection of some of the most interesting timepieces in the world talk to their creators.

For everyone who’s French is as crappy as mine, here’s translation of the original article published on Business Montres. With a little help from google translation and some rewriting, because the google translation didn’t make that much sense either

• • • WHY THE WATCH FACTORY in Geneva in January 2010?

The best answer would be why not? When we have friends visiting our city, the least we can do is show them around town. Many young creative brands of the new generation now have a more natural place for them to arrange their meetings with retailers and their friends and with the major players in the watch industry.

In recent years these meetings took place in hotel suites around town or in the mini-manufactures. This meant that in order to meet each other everyone had to run from one place to another. The Watch Factory Geneva 2010 – independent living for contemporary watches – will be held in downtown Geneva at the heart of a complex for international conferences. For obvious reasons, these places are hyper-secure, halfway between the airport and major hotels, with all parking facilities, bus and tram between the two destinations, even with a private shuttle.

The whole “family” will be grouped together, with between 20 and 30 brands of new generation watchmakers in the same place. This creates a very accessible alternative concept of based on the same principle, experienced during Baselworld 2009: maximalise creativity and minimalise decoration, for a selected audience of retailers, journalists and (this is new) selected fans (boy, do i hope to be invited!!).

• • • WHAT’S THE STRATEGY FOR THE BRANDS?

Although earlier this year analysts expected the business for the watch industry to pick up, it seems this is not the case. The luxury watch industry feels the disastrous effects of the global financial crisis and the current transformation of the luxury industry. Business is business. The crisis has a serious impact: lack of cash, retailers no longer want to order and the question pops why spent two weeks at the official watch shows in Basel and Geneva. Hence the temptation avowed by many of these retailers: Basel or Geneva, you have to choose, more and more of them preferring one or the other but not both. It seems logical  when you think about the pressure of the big brands to order at any price, even though they are already have overstock.

This is why the Watch Factory concept works best for independent labels: visitors don’t have to choose, we do two shows!

• • • WHAT CONCEPT FOR THE WATCH FACTORY in Geneva in January 2010?

The Watch Factory Geneva 2010 will be held from Sunday January 17th to Sunday January 24th. Why Sunday to Sunday? Because, on these dates, many of our Asian and American friends are present in Geneva at the weekend before the SIHH and they stay until next weekend. It is also a service to lovers of fine watches that work in the week: it will be easier to plan a quick trip to Geneva to take advantage of an invitation.

The whole thing will be ultra-professional. The exhibition place, the organization and logistics and of course the booths. International communication – B2B and B2C – is carried out by a specialized agency. The show itself will be administered by a dedicated company.

The exhibit hall, open to natural light and luxuriously decorated (blond wood, contemporary architecture), will be equipped with all amenities (private cafeteria, locker room, reception, toilets, private rooms for confidential meetings, conference rooms if necessary, etc.). Stands & decorated have been designed into the logic of neo-luxury low cost.

• • • WHAT BRANDS ARE EXPECTED AT THE WATCH FACTORY GENEVA 2010?

The Watch Factory will include many of those who have experienced this new trend at Baselworld, but it will not be a lounge reserved only for the ultra-exclusive watch, not a lounge for hyper-specialists of the high complication. The Watch Factory will provide a representation of a new generation watchmakers in all its facets and (almost) all prices.

As at Baselworld 2009, the Watch Factory gave place to the manufactures of complications and watches that offer an alternative to ‘new watches’. Next year will be a ‘family party’ and bring together a more wide variety of the new generation, which will be there in all its diversity.

The list of exhibitors will be published later. The event takes place in six months! Say that to date, 25 to 30 homes or more are expected.

• • • IS THE INITIATIVE OF THE WATCH FACTORY COMMERCIAL PARASITISM?

When a friend comes for dinner, are we asked who pais for petrol or parking? Since there are so many people visiting Geneva at the same time, why not make a lot of international retailers and journalists part of the ‘family’.

Clarification: in the spring of 2009 the management of Baselworld had generously agreed to make a gesture towards the new watch generation. This gave birth to the Watch Factory in Basel and it’s international success.

The same exhibition was proposed to the management of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), a place close to the ‘noble hall’ with low cost decoration to compress costs. The goal is to prevent guests from having to travel throughout Geneva all the time in order to attend every presentation and visit every brand.

The idea was to consolidate around Palexpo, with the obvious reason already mentioned (less travelling for all stakeholders). Unfortunately the SIHH didn’t agree and the Watch Factory then had no choice. Since many of the independent watchmakers exopsing at the Watch Factory are from Geneva an alternative central location had to be found. And with success.

• • • TO DO

This initiative is rich in potential for the brands of the new generation, who are faced with dramatic declines in orders from their retailers. The scarcity of media attention in watch magazines watch and their shrinking market share, pressure groups from advertising, a little more editorial restrictions, all put extra pressure on the attention given to independent labels. It is therefore for these brands to speak: it is a duty and an honor for Business Watches to join this initiative to support actively and without reservation.