Habring² will release something really special at Baselworld this year… The Habring² Foudroyante.

Habring² is an independent watchmaker from Austria, who’s well known because of his own developed Jumping Seconds  mechanism. This mechanism makes the seconds hand tick like a quartz watch, which it is not of course.

I think by now most of my readers know i don’t just post press releases. I just had to share this part of the press release about the new Habring² Foudroyante. It’s almost poetry….

28,800 vibrations per hour is nowadays more or less standard in watch technology for balance wheels in modern watch movements. The balance wheel oscillates 4 times per second – the attached hairspring “breathes” 4 times in and out. With each passage of the zero position, 8 times a second, the balance wheel receives an impulse from the gear train and the escape wheel advances ½ a tooth.

This explains what happens in a mechanical movement, in order to make the seconds hand move smoothly. And this is what happens with a jumping seconds hand and a foudroyante hand or flashing seconds hand…

The foudroyante hand rotates with the amazing speed of one full revolution per second. So this hand actually shows fractions of seconds, 8 fractions to be exact. A seconds hand of a normal watch makes 1440 revolutions per day, the foudroyante hand of the Habring² Foudroyante makes 86.400 full revolutions a day!!

Usually a foudroyante complication is part of a chronograph. Habring² is however the very first to combine a jumping second complication with a foudroyante complication. I’m pretty sure this watch will get a very warm welcome among watch aficionados worldwide.

The Habring²-Foudroyante will be first available with an automatically wound movement. A manually wound version will be release later. And now the biggest surprise… the price starts at €4.750,- for the stainless steel version. Production is limited to only 12 pieces per year.

Independent watchmakers John and Stephen McGonigle will release the “Tuscar” featuring their new time-only in-house movement, calibre McG01.

With a bit more than a week to go before Baselworld 2010 starts, the number of new watches is overwhelming. Something of a complete different order is a new in-house caliber, especially if it comes from two very talented independent watchmakers!

John McGonigle says the goal was to create a time-only watch with a high focus on excellent timekeeping, a substantial power reserve, reliability and with superb finishing and decoration. The design had to have a clean coherent style and the principle mechanical elements had to be visible on the dial side. This was only possible if they developed their own movement from the ground up. And that’s what they did…

Caliber McG01 is a hand-wound movement with two mainspring barrels that provide a power reserve of 90 hours. It also features a free sprung balance spring with Breguet overcoil and a gold escape wheel, that functions without oil. To improve timekeeping stability they choose a balance with a large diameter (12.8 mm).

The Tuscar is limited to 10 pieces called ‘One of Ten’. This first series will be distinctive from models to follow by virtue of materials used in the movement, the design and shape of certain bridges, the type of finish of individual parts and the engraving. So if you’re interested i suggest you contact McGonigle fast!!

The Tuscar ‘One of Ten’ has a white gold case, measuring 42.5 mm and a transparent sapphire dial reveals the new caliber. The sapphire dial is a style feature that was also used on the McGonigle Tourbillon. Speaking of which…

This is the Tourbillon wristwatch that John and Stephen McGonigle released in 2007 at Baselworld. Later i will write more about these candidate members of the AHCI, their first watch and of course the new Tuscar ‘One of Ten’.

Blancpain has something to celebrate, their 275th anniversary. For this reason they introduce the Villeret Moon Phase and a new Villeret Collection.

I’m happy to see the new Villeret Moon Phase or Villeret Phase de Lune Demi-Savonnette as it’s called in French. It has the looks for which i have always liked Blancpain… slim, stylish, classic and timeless design. This is completely different from last year’s announcement to eliminate the beautiful Léman collection and replace it with the ‘loud’ L-Evolution collection.

The Villeret Moon Phase is the first of the Villeret collection to be unveiled. Although the name is Villeret Moon Phase, this classic beauty features a complete calendar with moon-phase. The indicators for day and date do not jump instantly, however the month indicator does.

Blancpain choose to use a so-called half-hunter case. This means the case-back has a lid that can be opened in order to see the movement. A full hunter case also has a lid that should be opened in order to see the time. The 18kt rose gold case has a diameter of 40mm and has a sapphire crystal on both sides.

The calendar mechanism is new and is a secure calendar mechanism with correctors under the lugs! These under-lugs correctors are patented by Blancpain and not only leaves the sides of the watches with a remarkably pure finish, but also means that changes can be accomplished with one’s finger tips instead of requiring a dedicated tool.

The movement is the automatic Blancpain in-house caliber 6654 (measuring 32mm x 5.32mm) with 28 jewels and a power reserve of 72 hours. It’s is fitted with a variable-inertia titanium balance wheel, gold regulation screws and three main spring barrels.

Usually watches with a calendar or moon phase complication have to be adjusted at a specific time of day, making sure all gears are in the correct position. If adjustments are made at the wrong time, this could damage the movement.

This Villeret model features a revolutionary method for adjusting the indications without fear of movement damage, regardless of the time of day. Every single indication can be actuated with the correctors at any time without any damage to the movement. An indication can be halfway through a change and you can push the actuator without risk.

I think the new Villeret Moon Phase looks great and has very nice features! A power reserve of 72 hours, the case has a decent size with it’s 40 mm and being able to adjust the calendar and moon phase indicators at any given moment without damaging the movement is also a great feature!

URWERK released a new version in the 200 collection, the URWERK 203. It’s main difference with the rest of the collection, is that it reveals its micro-mechanics for all to see.

The URWERK 203’s case is made of black platinum, a great addition next to the rose & white gold and the AlTiN coated URWERK 202. AITiN was also used for the URWERK 103 Tarantula. However the main difference is it shows the robotic functions of URWERK’s mechanisms to show time.

Robotics? Yes robotics, because URWERK doesn’t use an hour and minute hand like the majority of mechanical watches. The satellite complication is the nerve centre of the UR-203, crafted from ARCAP P40, a stable non-ferrous and non-magnetic alloy. The intricate structure is skelletonized to reveal the internal clockwork. Within the UR-203 the cams, the rubies and the transporters that ensure the alignment of the telescopic hands indicating the minutes, are all revealed.

The telescopic minute hands precisely adjust their length to follow the three vectors marking the minutes: 0 -14; 15 – 44; 45 – 60. Extended, they enable the UR-203 to display the time across a large easy-to-read, dial. Retracted, they allow for a smaller, comfortably sized case providing the wearer with the best of both worlds.

To make a stripped down model distilled to its pure essence, like Martin Frei (URWERK co-founder and designer) wanted, they had to start again at the beginning. Felix Baumgartner, URWERK co-founder and master watchmaker, says they sat down at the drawing board and completely reconsidered the satellite module. “The horological challenge with this complication was to develop a complex mechanism with the minimum of components to ensure its reliability and longevity.”

Now the carousel, hour satellites, telescopic minute hands and dial weigh 65% less than the proceeding model (UR-202). The satellite complication now tips the scales at a feather-light 3.57 grams.

Click on the photo to enlarge

The dial shows an «Oil Change» indicator and a 150 year «Horological Odometer». The «Oil Change» indicator informs the wearer when a service is due; an operation recommended every three years of movement operation. Similar to the odometer of a car, the UR-203’s «Horological Odometer» keeps track of the total number of years of operation of the movement.

The UR-203 is also equipped with URWERK’s double turbine system, the same automatic winding system that is used in the watches of the 200 collection. The turbines are mounted on rubies and are controlled by a three-position lever offering the choice of « FREE », « SPORT » or « STOP ». The position determines the force available from the automatic rotor to wind the mainspring. FREE, where the turbines spin freely; SPORT, where the air pressure generated by the turbines reduces the winding rate by approximately 35%; and STOP, where the turbines and rotor are fully blocked. The speed of the turbines can reach a maximum 16,500 RPM.

Check out the URWERK website for more details and other models.