The quest of making a watch brand successful isn’t an easy one. Especially because of the ecenomic recession, it might seem difficult. There is however another (surprising) reason why it’s so difficult to keep a watch brand successful.

Over at The Watch Lounge, guest author Olivier Muller, wrote three four (edited by Mono) excellent stories about the difficulty of choosing between innovation and tradition. The ultimate balancing act… In part 1 Olivier describes the dillema many watch brands are confronted with. Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of Hublot, also gives his vision on how to build a successful brand. Something he has much experience with, after a successful career with Omega, Blancpain and now Hublot.

In the part two of the three part story, the recent developments at Mont Blanc show another solution of dealing with this ultimate balancing act. Alexander Schmiedt, business development manager for Villeret 1858, Mont Blanc’s own development department, is interviewed.

The third part is about an entirely different, yet very successful, way of dealing with these modern quests. Romain Jérôme speaks about his own watch brand. In the last part Arnaud Vidal, General Manager of Audemars Piguet in France, speaks about the relation between limited editions and the normal collection.

It’s a great read, so take a look at Olivier’s story about the ‘unexpected’ difficulties watch brands are faced with.

On September 24^th the charity auction Only Watch will be held in Monaco. Many of the most prestigious Swiss watch brands created a unique watch for this charity event that is held during the Monaco Yacht Show.

All the proceeds of the Only Watch charity auction will be donated to the research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The next Only Watch auction is organized in close collaboration with Patrizzi & Co and the Monaco Yacht Show, and is under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco.

Only Watch 2009 Quai de i'Ile dial close-up

Especially for Only Watch 2009 Vacheron Constantin created it’s first tantalum watch. Vacheron Constantin decided to create a tantalum Quai de l’Ile.  Christian Selmoni, head of Product Marketing, says this choice was made because it fits into the research spirit needed when fighting against a disease as Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

The case exists of 10 parts which are fixed to a titanium inner case. The function of this titanium inner case is to hold the movement in place. This inner case itself consists of 7 pieces. The case of the Quai de l’Ile is far more sophisticated than that of a normal case.

Vacheron Constantin Quai de i'lle for Only Watch 2009

The heart of the case, flanks and bezel sections are considered as three “interchangeable” components. On ‘normal’ Vacheron Constantin Quai de l’Ile models this allows personal customisation with three different metals – Palladium, Titanium and Pink Gold. This unique piece for Only Watch 2009 is entirely made of tantalum, except the flanks. The flanks of the watch are made of palladium.

Tantalum is a very rare and noble metal, not only because of the qualities of the metal but also because it’s unique, very dark, look. Unlike other metals used on watches, the dark color is not achieved by adding coatings or other treatments, but it is the metal’s natural color.

Only Watch 2009 Quai de i'Ile dial close-up

The dial and crystal are also far from usual. The Maltese cross symbol and the numbers 12, 3, 6 and 9 are linked into the sapphire by using multiple layers technology, called galvanic growth. The other numerals are laser engraved then inked in white ink.

Furthermore, the Only Watch Quai de l’Ile features a dark red minute track engraved and painted on a lower part of the whole dial. Finally, on the inside ring of the dial, there is an outer subdial which has a decorative 3D engraving representing the logo “Only Watch”. “Only” is engraved and “Watch” is in relief, so that when the light hits the sapphire crystal the name “Only Watch” appears in three dimensions.

At the Only Watch 2009 website all the 34 unique pieces and their specifications can be found.

Here’s a short extra update form Mont Blanc. This year the Mont Blanc Sport Chronograph has been released in an all black version. No real shocking new design, but in my opinion it looks very good. Last year i had the steel version of this watch and i was amazed by the excellent finish and quality. Here’s a photo of my steel version and of the new all black Sport Chronograph.

November last year and a few days ago i already posted about other new releases of Mont Blanc.

To celebrate the 150th birthday of Minerva, Mont Blanc now comes with the Grand Tourbillon Heures Mystique. Mont Blanc uses Minerva movements for it’s mechanical Collection Villeret 1858. The movements build but Minerva are of great beauty. Take a look at Mont Blanc’s website to see more of this line.
Mont Blanc now comes with another beautiful watch in the Collection Villeret 1858, the Grand Tourbillon Heures Mystique.

I just really like the dial, the case and the tourbillon case…. and not to forget the “Heures Mystique”. The hands are painted on two layers of crystal so they appear to be floating in the air.

Check out the post on Horomundi to read more about this watch and to see more pictures! Here’s one more from the beautiful tourbillon case

I still find it hard to take Mont Blanc serious as a player in the high end watch industry or Haute Horlogerie. But with the Collection Villeret and especially this Grand Tourbillon Heures Mystique yo just have to accept they make incredibly beautiful watches. The design is just perfect and the movement and complication are just amazing. Although i still see them as one of the most prestigious names for writing instruments, especially fountain pens, they also have become of the a very impressive name in the Haute Horlogerie.

Read more about it on Horomundi.com