Not sure what happened, but wearing the Double Split made me a bit poetical, and two things kept coming back to me. First was a sentence from the movie Lord of the Rings, “One Ring to Rule Them All”, which became like a daily mantra, albeit slightly altered for this occasion: “One Chronograph to Rule Them All”. The other thing that seems to be stuck between my ears, is a song by Prince (Rogers Nelson) called “The Most Beautiful Girl in the World” (replace “Girl” with “Movement”). “Could u be the most beautiful movement in the world? Could u be? … Oh, yes u are”

It would not do justice to the Double Split, also dubbed the Mighty Double Split, to simply talk about the aesthetics of its movement. The A. Lange & Söhne also the world’s first and only (mechanical) chronograph with a double-rattrapante function. While a normal rattrapante, or split-seconds chronograph, allows to compare two timed events on the same watch, the drawback is that it can only compare differences of one minute or less. The Double Split allows to compare two time recording that can differ up to 30 minutes, because each of the central seconds hands, has its own minute hand. And both hands, or actually all four hands, are fly-back hands! So, besides its striking looks, the Double Split also seriously impresses on a technical level.

History

It would be almost impossible to describe A. Lange & Söhne’s history here, because it goes back to 1845 and covers many things that can still be found in the A. Lange & Söhne’s watches today. Just think of the hallmark three-quarter plate or for instance a new alloy used for balance springs. Richard Lange invented and patented this new alloy, at age 84, and it is still used throughout the watch industry today, and we know it under the name of Nivarox.

However let’s start in November 1989, when the wall between east and west Berlin was taken down, and started a new era for all of Germany. Walter Lange realized this might also be an opportunity to revive the family business and once again make watches with the “Lange” name on the dial. Early 1990 he and Günter Blümlein worked out a plan to do exactly that. But they had to start from scratch, as there were no watches, no employees, no building, no machines. There was just a shared vision, as Walter Lange recalls: “All we had was the vision of once again crafting the world’s best watches in Glashütte.”

In 1992 they filed an application for a patent, which became one of the hallmarks of the brand. It was for the recognizable outsize date, and two years later in 1994, the outsize date was introduced in three of the four first A. Lange & Söhne watches. One of these watches was the Lange 1, and it has become a true icon in the past 19 years. Yes, it has just been 19 year and only celebrates it’s second decennium anniversary next year. In the mean time the A. Lange & Söhne saga has grown again, more successful then ever before.

On the A. Lange & Söhne website is a rich media archive, dedicated to tell the story about A. Lange & Söhne’s history. I can fully recommend to visit the website (click here) and browse through history.

It was in 2004 that the Saxonian brand introduced the Double Split. As they put it in the press release: “The new Lange Double Split is absolutely peerless, because it not only has one, but two rattrapante hands – one for the seconds and one for the minutes to be stopped. What’s more, both chrono hands and both rattrapante hands are flyback hands. The new era of chronography has begun.”

(Note from the editor: Due to a corrupt SD card none of my own wrist shots could be used. All wristshots show the Double Split in platinum, which is not available anymore. Photos are made by Edwin.)

Overall appearance

When looking at a watch like the A. Lange & Söhne Double Split, you immediately recognize its majestic provenance. It’s not the smallest watch, however it takes the space in such way that no one questions it, it simply takes its rightful place. Even with it’s robust dimensions and impressive weight, it wears comfortable. Of course you cannot neglect the fact that you’re wearing more than 200 grams of horological artistry, but it sits solidly on the wrist.

Of course the Double Split suits perfect with suit & tie, however the double rattrapante fly-back chronograph adds some sportiness to it, which makes the Double Split perfect wear with jeans and shirt or polo (or with a sweater). An elegant all-rounder one might say. Yes indeed, I said ‘elegant’. Although the Double Split can be considered very masculine, if not only for its dimensions and weight, it is also elegant and that has everything to do with the aesthetics of the dial.

The design is very classic and understated chic, like all Lange & Söhne watches. The solid silver dial with pink gold stick markers, double stick markers at 12 and 6 o’clock, offers this classic and understated chic looks. Although the dial features two registers, one for the running seconds and one for the double minute counters, a power reserve indication and the words “DOUBLE SPLIT – FLYBACK” and “Glashütte i/sa”, it is calm and not cluttered with information or things that distract from reading the time indicated by the central hour and minute hand.

On the right hand side are the crown and two chronograph pushers, on the left hand side is a pusher for the rattrapante or split-second function of the Double Split. The economic use of Super LumiNova makes it possible to read the time during the night, however it night legibility cannot be compared to Italian navy dive watches for instance. The Double Split comes on a hand-stitched alligator strap with a pink gold prong buckle.

The Double Split is part of a collection that A. Lange & Söhne, rightfully so, have named “unrivalled masterpieces“.

Features

The main feature is of course the double split function, that allows to measure and compare two times. A technical high-light and a world’s first in a wrist watch. While a normal rattrapante allows the possibility of taking a lap-time reading with the rattrapante sweep-seconds hand, during an ongoing measurement. This is however restricted to the 60-second scale and this to laps of less than one minute. A. Lange & Söhne have extended the rattrapante sweep-seconds hand with a jumping minute counter. This means that comparative lap measurements of up to 30 minutes are possible; for instance for timing Formula 1 races or horse races.

How to use it.

In oder to explain this, it is important to note that there are two sweep-seconds hands, co-axial, one on top of the other, like with any rattrapante chronograph. The chrono sweep-seconds hand is in pink gold and the rattrapante hand is in blued steel, and hovers over the chrono sweep-seconds hand. Unlike other rattrapante chronographs, the Double Split is also equipped with an additional rattrapante minute-counter hand, that lies a hair’s breathe above the chrono minute-counter hand. Again, the rattrapante minute-counter hand is executed in blued steel, while the chrono minute-counter hand is executed in pink gold.

During an ongoing time measurement, the rattrapante hands can be used for a separate lap time measurement at any given moment. To activate the time measurement, press the pusher at 2 o’clock and both sweep-seconds hands will be set in motion, simultaneously. In order to measure the first time, the pusher at 10 o’clock has to be pressed. This causes the rattrapante sweep-seconds hand to stop instantly, and display the measured lap time. The chrono sweep-seconds hand will keep running. For a second measurement, press the pusher at 2 o’clock in order to stop the chrono sweep-seconds hand. Now a second lap times can be noted, as a separate result, or it can be compared with the first lap time.

If more than two consecutive measurements are to be made after the hands have been collectively set in motion, the following procedure must be observed: The first lap time, stopped with the rattrapante push piece, must be memorised or written down. The renewed actuation of the pusher causes the rattrapante sweep-seconds hand to instantaneously catch up with the still-running chrono sweep-seconds hand. This process can be repeated as often as desired, as long as the chrono sweep-seconds hand is in motion and the aggregate time measurement has thus not been interrupted, by a reset to zero.

And before I forget it, the Double Split also features a flyback function. To use the flyback function, leave the stopped rattrapante time untouched and press the zero-reset pusher (located at 4 o’clock) for instantaneously starting a new measurement. The normal chronograph function can now be used to measure a reference lap time and compare it with the time displayed by the rattrapante hands.

Dial/hands

As mentioned before, the shown wrist shots feature the Double Split in platinum that isn’t available anymore. In this review we’ll focus on the Double Split in 18-carat pink gold that is still in the collection.

The Double Split has an argenta dial of solid silver, that features pink gold stick markers, two subdials and a power reserve indicator. Around the dial is a sloping ring with a tachometer scale and the name of the brand. Centrally placed are the ‘dauphine’ style hour and minute hands and also two sweep-seconds hands for the chronograph and rattrapante. Applied on the hour and minute hand is Super LumiNova, that helps to read to time during the night. The Super LumiNova is applied ‘economical’, which by the way suits the watch’s design, and therefore the luminescent material isn’t visible with dim light, but it is visible during the night and when your eyes have adapted to darkness.

The power reserve indicator (AB/AUF), positioned at 12 o’clock, tells the wearer how much of the 38 hours of power reserve are left, before winding is necessary again.  The left subdial is for the small running seconds, while the subdial on the right side is for the two minute-counters.

Case/strap

The Double Split comes in a hefty 43.2 mm large round three-part case. The caseback is screwed to the mid-case and is adorned with engravings and features a sapphire crystal so we can all enjoy the overwhelming beauty of the movement. The bezel and the mid-case are both polished, and so are pushers and the horns.

The bare facts are:

• 18-carat Pink gold case
• Weight is more than 200 grams
• Dimensions: diameter 43.2 mm, height 15.3 mm
• Sapphire crystal on both sides
• Hand-stitched alligator strap with 18-carat pink gold prong buckle

Movement

Collectors around our globe all agree – or at least I still haven’t met a collector who does’t agree – that the movement of the Lange Double Split is unrivalled (yes, that’s also the name of the collection). It would be strange to call it the Magnus Opus of A. Lange & Söhne, because this Saxonian brand has more extremely impressive timepieces in the collection. But let’s call it the Magnus Opus among chronographs. Visually it offers the most brilliant three-dimensional mechanical version of the grand canyon. The bridges seem to be sculptured by artists, with no fear of height or depth.

The interplay of levers, bridges, wheels, cams and what more, is something that the average watch aficionado can only admire. I’m actually sure that most people working as watchmaker in the watch industry, have no clue how all these parts works together in order to give you measure time and a comparative second time. Honestly, it’s one of the most complex movements and it’s not easy to explain it in detail.

Rate accuracy and the double rattrapante

Besides making all these parts work and fit within the 43 mm case, there was another huge technical challenge. The act of measuring a lap time may not be done at the expense of a loss in amplitude, when the chrono sweep-seconds hand continues to revolve while the rattrapante sweep-seconds hand is stopped.

Normally, the sustained contact between the still-running heart-shaped rattrapante cams and the rattrapante heart levers creates friction, losses, and torque fluctuations. In the Double Split, this has been eliminated because disengagement wheels on the rattrapante centre wheel and on the rattrapante minute wheel, separate both rattrapante heart levers from the still-rotating heart-shaped cams.

This disengagement mechanism is developed (and patented) by Lange & Söhne and they found inspiration for the Double Split and its technical refinements, in a Lange double-rattrapante pocket watch from the late 19th century.

Finishing of the movement

The funny thing is that Lange & Söhne themselves don’t say a word about the finishing of the movement. However a close look gives away that it is of the highest possible level. The two bridges are adorned with Glashütte ribbing, the Saxonian version of Côte de Genève, all levers and bridges are angled by hand and these angles are polished by hand as well. The flat surfaces of the levers and some gears and cams are straight grained. Of course the screw heads are all hand polished and most screws are heat-blued. Also most jewels are set in gold chatons, which are held in place by heat-blued screws. Although I can’t see it in the photos, I’m positive that the mainplate and reverse side of bridges and levers, are all adorned in the proper way, whether it be circular spotting or straight graining. Long story short, finishing is as good as it gets!

Activation of the chronograph functions

The Double Split is equipped with two, not one, column wheel. While enthusiasm of chronograph connoisseurs is easily sparked when a column wheel is used for actuating the chronograph functions, the Double Split simply adds a second one. The first column wheel actuates the chronograph function (start/stop/reset) and the second column wheel actuates the rattrapante function.

The verdict – pros and cons

I always end reviews with some thoughts about the watch, name some things that stand out very positively and some thing that could be improved in my opinion. I have given the latter a lot of thought and cannot come up with a single thing. Ah well, maybe the re-introduction of the platinum Double Split.

The A. Lange & Söhne Double Split comes at a retail price of close to € 100,000 Euro and while this is a significant amount, I think it is more than justified given the enormous amount of time that goes into manufacturing, finishing and assembling this über-complicated chronograph.

The A. Lange & Söhne Double Split is the absolute pinnacle when it comes to chronographs, and we only need a few words to describe it: “One Chronograph To Rule Them All”. 

Links: please visit the A. Lange & Söhne website for more information about the brand, the full collection and retailers.

Note from the editor: Due to a corrupt SD memory card, none of my wrist shots could be used. Edwin immediately agreed to let me use thewrist shots that he made of his own Double Split in platinum, which is not available anymore. Furthermore Edwin is co-moderator of the A. Lange & Söhne forum at Timezone.com. HUGE thanks to Edwin, for letting me use his brilliant wrist shots.

In order to see this marvelous machine first hand, we traveled to Switzerland for our Tour de Suisse, that we did back in 2010. Of course this offered the opportunity to show more about Hautlence’s technical creations. The hours are indicated by a chain and minutes by means of the familiar retrograde minute hand. The rotating escapement can be admired through the sapphire crystal that is curved, or maybe even wrapped, around the movement.

When the retrograde minutes hand returns to zero, to begin the next hour, the “connecting-rod mechanism” drives one revolution. A so-called function star activates the hour chain and the “mobile bridge movement”. This is when the mechanical magic of the HL2.0 starts to come to life…

The mechanisms of the hour chain and rotating escapement come to life simultaneously, and are powered by the energy in the complication barrel (a separate main spring, dedicated to providing energy to this complication). The speed control – placed on the centre axis of the retrograde minute hand and which is adorned with the Hautlence logo – makes  completes 48 revolutions at high speed and allows the chain links to advance the hour-chain in 3-4 seconds.

When the hour display advances, a coupler transmits the kinetic power of the chain to the “mobile bridge movement”. This “mobile bridge movement” is the section that is visible through the curved sapphire and incorporates the regulating organ. This rotates by 60 degrees, every hour, and it also compensates for the effect of gravity, and thus enhancing the movement’s precision. The following video perfectly shows how it works.

As already mentioned, there are two main spring barrels, one for the time indication that powers the retrograde minute hand and a second to power the complication, being the hour-chain and mobile bridge movement. The principal barrel is wound by the automatic winding system and transmits the energy needed to wind a second barrel. That second barrel is kept fully wound by the main barrel to ensure that an optimal level of energy is available to change each hour. By using two separate main spring barrels, each independently powering either the time or the complication, Hautlence ensures the precision of the watch isn’t negatively affected.

Besides the two gold versions – HL2.1 in 18-carat white gold and HL2.2 in 18-carat 4N pink gold – there is another titanium version, that is black DLC coated, HL2.3, which was released in March of this year. No price for the HL2.4 was mentioned yet, however since HL2.3 comes at a retail price of 180,000 CHF (including tax), it’s safe to assume that the HL2.4 will be in the same price range.

What you are seeing here is in fact a Seiko Prospex (Professional Specifications) gathering. Fans of our site can tell that the writers of Monochrome have a special fascination for the aforementioned Japanese brand. In case you missed our other Seiko articles, you can read them here, here and here. Stalwarts of the brand know how well this watch is built, the technical feats it accomplishes, its historical origin and its unbeatable price tag. The only downside is, they are Japanese exclusive pieces. But that wouldn’t exactly stop us from getting one, would it?

Readers of our site would recall that we published similar coverage before, in the capital city of the Philippines. And folks who have stepped foot on the island nation archipelago will know the vast number of dive spots available in that country (desk divers notwithstanding.) It only stands to reason, then, that dive watches are plentiful there. Add to that the fact that Southeast Asians (myself included) have a special inclination towards this Japanese brand. Here in my country, Seiko is practically king.

Prospex divers are separated into two different categories, the Marinemasters (see two photos above) and the Scuba series, the former being the brand’s culmination of dive watch design, and the latter to be the more casual yet pro spec’d version. Essentially, the Scuba series are technically lesser versions of the Marinemasters. But its smaller case size, and versatile nature makes it one of the best tool watches on the market. In fact, one piece from that series had gained such a following that the organizers of the get-together titled the gathering after its nickname – “The Sumo” Gathering.

The Seiko “Sumos” (SBDC001, SBDC003, SBDC005) here are the stars of the show. And they come in all sorts of colors and strap combos. The popularity of the Seiko Sumo in my country and the rest of Southeast Asia may have something to do with its affordability. But most Sumo buyers are not your typical consumer. In fact, a lot of them are even dedicated haute horlogerie collectors. So its affordability is not exactly the main reason for its success. But before you jump to any conclusion, let us look at some of the high points of this timepiece.

• Seiko’s in-house 6R15 caliber - self-winding (with hacking)
• Lumibrite (Seiko patented lume)
• Antimagnetic
• 200m depth rating
• Rotating bezel and screw lock crown
• Double lock clasp

What you get from the Sumo is practically the total package of what most watch collectors look for in a timepiece. An in-house movement of robust and reliable quality, a lume that rivals the Super LumiNova of the Swiss, a depth rating that most of us don’t even dare reach, and most importantly an inherent exclusivity because of its being a JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) only piece. So in essence, price is merely the secondary reason for its fame, and as much as I hate to say it, no other timepiece comes close to what you get in terms of value for money.

Seiko Black Sumo SBDC001

Of course, the gathering wasn’t exactly limited to the Sumos. The big boys from the Prospex Marinemaster series were also present; we also saw some limited editions, some heavily modified pieces, and of course, some vintage models to showcase some heritage. I could keep going on and on, but for now, I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

Seiko Blue Sumo SBDC003

Seiko Orange Sumo SBDC005

The Thailand Special Editions. Notice the cyclops date window a Thailand exclusive (Lucky bastards!) Left in front with the white dial and blue chapter ring around the dial is a limited edition Seiko Monster, nicknamed Snow Monster. The black coated version in the lower right corner is another Monster, the Seiko Zamba Monster, which is a Thailand limited edition.

Seiko Limited Edition Green Dial PVD Sumo

Seiko Yellow Sumo Limited Edition

The Tunas are also present…

Golgo Limited Edition Fieldmaster…

Seiko Fieldmaster Golgo Limited Edition

Seiko Fieldmaster Golgo Limited Edition

Vintage Tuna – the granddaddy of the Tunas…

Seiko Vintage Tuna

Seiko Vintage Tuna

And last, but not least… The original Prospex the Seiko 62MAS aka ref. 6217. The granddaddy of all Seiko Professional Specs watches.

Seiko Prospex 62MAS ref.6217

Credits: Big thanks to the people from Philippine Watch Club forums for organizing the event.

Chopard knows what it means to go Superfast. As ubiquitous as racing legends Prost, Senna, or Schumacher are to the sport of Formula One, Chopard aspires to be to auto racing in general and takes top spot on the podium, champagne spewing in victory as they introduce a new Classic Racing line with three models, the Superfast Auto, Chrono and Power Control. Sleek, sophisticated and sporty, the Superfast line recalls motorsports at every turn (see our weekly watch photo). Made to dominate Spa-Francorchamps’ Eau Rouge turn in the rain or attend such daydreams, the Superfast watches unite the thrill of racing with the art of horology.

In the 1966 movie, Grand Prix, James Garner plays Formula One driver Pete Aron who has the following conversation with his team owner, Izo Yamura:

Izo Yamura: Why do you drive racing cars, or do you not think about it?

Pete Aron: Oh, Mr. Yamura, I don’t think there’s one of us who doesn’t ask himself at least once in the middle of a race, “What the hell am I doing here?” Of course, when it’s over, we conveniently forget that we asked ourselves that question. I think about it and a lot of reasons I don’t know. Maybe to do something that brings you so close to the possibility of death and to survive it is to feel life and living so much more intensely.

Chopard embodies the spirit of living on the limit by capturing the sensation of speed. Long a supporter of classic car races, the Mille Miglia race, which is the eponym for the other line in their Classic Racing collection, and the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique, Chopard understands how winning can come down to a matter of seconds.

In the Constructor’s Championship, Chopard’s time in the wind tunnel has produced, if not exactly an aerodynamic design, then one that is fast. The eight Allen screws on the bezel recall the lugs adorning wheel rims, reminding us of quick tire changes in the pits. Anthracite vertical lines run down the black dial like an engine’s cooling fins, and the cooling motif continues on the case’s side and on the back with the parallel lines covering the open worked movement. The rubber strap with steel folding clasp has the smooth tread of racing tires or so-called “slicks.” The pushers are coated in rubber for a no-slip grip, and the steering wheel logo sits atop the rubber-molded steel or gold crown.

Each dial echoes the racing theme. In fuel gauge fashion, the Superfast Power Control displays the generous 60 hour power reserve at 9 o’clock. The Superfast Automatic, the more diminutive of the bunch at 41mm compared to its teammates’ 45mm cases, shares with the other models a chapter ring with numerals.

All three versions feature a date window: the Automatic at 6 o’clock, the Power Control at 3 o’clock, and the Chrono between 4 and 5 o’clock. A large Arabic 12 caps each dial, and Superluminova covers the rhodium hands and hour batons. The Superfast Chrono adds three sub-dials: minute counter at 3 o’clock, small seconds at 6 o’clock and hour counter at 9 o’clock.

Look under the hood through the case back, and for the first time, we find Chopard’s in-house, self-winding movements come standard in the new Superfast collection. Designed, developed, manufactured and assembled at the Fleurier Ebauches workshops, these movements bring the company one step closer to manufacturing autonomy. In July 2008, Chopard founded this movement company, which produced 5,000 movements in 2012 and hopes to produce as many as 15,000 by 2015. The Superfast line has them heading in the right direction.

The aforementioned open worked bridges allow you to view the intricacies of the movements. The Automatic’s Caliber 01.01-M is chronometer COSC certified, and all the watches have an extended 60-hour power reserve. The Superfast Chrono’s Caliber 03.05-M (on the left), equipped with a column wheel visible through a small window, powers the sweep seconds hand to match the tachymeter scale engraved on the bezel and provides a flyback function. Finally, the Superfast Power Control’s Caliber 01.02-M measures how much gas is left in the tank.

Wanna go fast? Really fast? Superfast? One of these watches will get you to the checkered flag.

These three models of the new Chopard Superfast collection are available in stainless steel and 18-carat rose gold. Visit the Chopard website for more information and availability.

This is the address of Vacheron Constantin’s new boutique (we showed you the dedicated website and stunning B&W photos here) and to celebrate this, Vacheron introduced four limited editions of the Patrimony Traditionnelle collection, which all feature a stunning hand-guilloché opaline silver-toned dial. The hand-guilloché pattern on the crème, or off-white, or light-beige, or, what Vacheron calls opaline silver-toned, dial, simply looks stunning. Especially combined with the pink gold case and chestnut brown alligator strap.

Just imagine this stunning timepiece on your wrist. It measures a modern 42 mm in diameter and the 18-carat pink gold case features a gracefully slim bezel around the dial. This draws full attention to the extremely stylish dial, with its “Paris Boutique” hand-guilloché pattern. Around the dial is a tachymeter scale, that allows you to measure speed. A tachymeter is simply a means of converting elapsed time in seconds per unit to units per hour.

To use a tachymeter for measuring speed, start the chronograph at a starting marker of a known distance. At the next marker, the point on the scale adjacent to the second hand indicates the speed (in distance between markers per hour) of travel between the two.

T is the tachymeter scale value; t is the time in seconds that it takes for the event to occur; and 3600 is the number of seconds in an hour. This works best, if the distance measured is exactly 1 kilometer (no calculations required).

For instance, you drive your car in the highway, and start timing at the moment you pass a kilometer indication and stop timing when you traveled exactly 1 kilometer. Suppose the central seconds hand stopped at 6 o’clock and the tachymeter indicates 120. This means that T=120 and t=30 seconds, telling you that, yes indeed, you traveled at an average speed of 120 km/h.

Gold dauphine hands to indicate the hours and minutes, a small pink gold hand (at 9 o’clock) to indicate the running seconds and two black hands dedicated to the chronograph. The color of the central seconds hand and the 30-minute counter, located at the 3 o’clock position, set them apart from the hands that indicate the actual time.

This Patrimony Traditionnelle “Paris Boutique” chronograph is issued in a ten-piece limited series. It’s divine movement is encased in a 18-carat pink 42 mm-diameter large case. The finish applied on calibre 1141 is simply stunning and is worthy of such a mechanical gem. Owners can admire the main plate surfaces with circular-graining, or the bridges that have been adorned with Côtes de Genève, the hand chamfered and polished edges of the bridges and linear grained chronograph levers (also featuring hand chamfered and polished edges). All this, and the hand polished screw heads, are visible through the case back with sapphire crystal.

The hand-wound movement, calibre 1141, features a column-wheel system to activate the chronograph functions. This movement, which is based on the classic Lemania 2320, also called Nouvèlle Lémania and also used by Patek Philippe in the ref. 5070 chronograph, it features a screw balance and a fine adjustment for regulating the balance.

A last look at the unique “Paris Boutique” pattern on the dial, closing my eyes and thinking about trolling through Paris, the lovely old buildings, the parks, the vast amount of old statues, art galleries, museums and terraces next to the Seine. Hand in hand with my girl and of course this Vacheron chronograph on my wrist. Ah, maybe she can wear the Patrimony Traditionnelle Diamond Set (check here), to complete the picture. I’m sure she won’t mind. Make sure to visit the new Vacheron Constantin boutique in Paris, at 2 Rue de la Paix.

Links: a HUGE thanks for the photos to Alex Ghotbi, your host at Vacheron Constantin’s own in-house forum called The Hour Lounge. As we say, a recommended read/visit.

The timepieces that Patek Philippe donates to Only Watch have always fetched the highest bids and we wouldn’t be surprised if this Patek will break another record. Not only is it the fourth Patek in titanium, ever to be made, it is also a ref. 5004 that is not in the current collection anymore, so it might be considered a last chance for collectors to buy this desirable timepiece. The ref. 5004T features a Split-Seconds Chronograph and a Perpetual Calendar.

As we already said, this appears to be the fourth known Patek Philippe in titanium! Our friend’s at Perpetuelle.com already showed two unique Patek Philippe watches in titanium (check here to see the ref. 5180T and the ref. 6000T). A third is a titanium version of the Nautilus Power Reserve ref. 5712 T, which was sold for € 525.000 Euro at the Only Watch 2007 auction. In 2009 and 2011 Patek Philippe also set record prices during the Only Watch charity auction. In 2009 the Patek Philippe Celestial Calendar ref. 5106R in rose gold fetched € 535.000 Euros. The stainless steel Tourbillon Minute Repeater ref. 3939A, fetch a record price of 1,4 million Euros, back in 2011.

Patek’s contribution to the Only Watch 2013 auction is a ref. 5004, which is one of the great classics of the Patek Philippe Grand Complications collection between 1995 and 2011. The manually wound chronograph’s movement, caliber CHR 27-70 Q, is based on a “Nouvelle Lémania” movement, produced for Patek Philippe and completely reworked in the company’s workshops. The Nouvelle Lémania movement is also used for Patek’s much coveted 5070 chronograph. Patek Philippe added a split-seconds mechanism and a perpetual calendar, making the total number of parts add up to 407.

This Only Watch 2013 special Reference 5004T is the first and only version ever produced in titanium.

Specifications: Ref. 5004T Split Second Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar

Movement: Caliber CHR 27-70 Q, manual winding, split seconds chronograph with 30-minute counter, perpetual calendar that indicates day and month in apertures, date and leap year by hands, moon phases, a 24-hour display and a small seconds indication.

Case: titanium, 36.7 mm in diameter, water resistant to 30 meters, interchangeable titanium full back and sapphire crystal case back, comes on a calf leather strap, embossed with a carbon pattern and red hand stitching, titanium prong buckle.

Dial: Solid gold dial plate, black with hand-guilloché carbon pattern, gold applied numerals, white seconds hand, red split seconds hand.

Links: Only Watch exceptional charity auction

Back in the 1960s, King Seiko (KS), a sub-brand from the company’s elite lines, set its sights on dethroning the GS as the company’s top-of-the-line brand. Accuracy-wise, the GS did have a head start, but the makers of the KS were making strides that could give the GS a run for its money. The competition was only halted by growing favor for the rising quartz technology. The real question was never really answered… Did a “KING” ever equal a “GRAND”?

The earliest model of the King Seiko was produced in 1963 by Daini Seikosha Co., as an answer to the release of the 1960 Grand Seiko by Suwa Seikosha Co. The internal rivalry between the two wholly owned subsidiaries had led to the race of becoming the company’s flagship brand. The perfection of accuracy and precision was their common driving force for glory, so it was inevitable that both brands (The GS and the KS) culminated their achievements by each creating a Hi-Beat timepiece, for reasons we already discussed in the first part of this series.

A few years after the release of the original GS, the first generation King Seiko was produced. It was a hand-wound, unnumbered 25-jewel caliber. The first King Seiko never really made progress as the lack of chronometer rating gives an impression that it was a lesser model of the original GS. After the original KS, the King Seiko caliber 44A models were released which were housed in different variations of cases (more specifically, with various case back emblems). These 44-series calibers (18,000 bph) produced by Daini Seikosha went toe-to-toe for years with what the Suwa group had developed for the GS line. By 1964, the first chronometer KS was produced, but was later renamed as a 44GS due to the 1966 chronometer appeal (i.e. GS standards were stricter than the Chronometer standards).

The 44 series were all hand-wound calibers for the KS line that beat at a normal 18,000 bph. It was thus inevitable that the KS would soon go the same route as the Lord Marvel and GS did, producing higher-frequency movements. The result was the creation of the King Seiko 45 series, a manual-wound movement with 25 jewels which beat at an astounding 36,000 bph or 10 bps, thus relegating the 44 series to what was now considered the low-beat calibers; the 45 was the new Hi-Beat caliber.

Around the 6 o’clock marker “Japan” and the reference number are printed on the dial of both King Seiko and Grand Seiko. This makes it relatively easy to recognize the exact model.

The King Seiko 45 series came with a wide array of different cases, design styles, and most importantly standards, from a regular KS to Superior Chronometer rating, and labeled as such on the dial and case back designs. The standards here were not exactly for show: a superior chronometer standard can have a timepiece with an accuracy of -6/+9 sec/day. And let us not forget that this was a true Hi-Beat (10bps) timepiece made back in the 60s.

The accuracy was so unreal for that period of time that Seiko began labeling them to be at the class ‘A’ standard for Seiko as far as accuracy was concerned. Then finally, before the quartz crisis changed everything, the KS 5246 was released, the first automatic Hi-Beat KS; it only beat at a frequency of 28,800 bph, less than the 36,000 bph true Hi-Beat, but higher than what was the norm back then.

The 52 caliber series may have lagged in the frequency race, but it held its own in terms of accuracy and precision. The models with the ‘Special’ label (see photo above) were said to be at a standard near or even equal to the GS ‘AA’ standard. The whole fascination with accuracy and Hi-Beat movements at that time was bordering on becoming an unstable obsession for Seiko; so these 52 calibers may have lost out on the frequency race, but won back their fame by their durability.

In the end, the story of the GS and KS were both halted during the quartz revolution. The GS did made a daring comeback in 1998, which finally established it as the company’s flagship brand. Unfortunately for the KS, it did not receive the same treatment. But nonetheless, the KS remains one of Seiko’s biggest stepping stones to creating a truly Hi-Beat timepiece. It is obvious that the intense rivalry between the two subsidiaries was for the purpose of product development – and to mitigate risks. And as far as competition goes, one had to be declared a winner and another a loser. The Grand Seiko may have actually been crowned the company’s flagship watch, but in the eyes of collectors, aficionados and experts, and as far as feats of technology are concerned, the ‘King’ was never inferior to the ‘Grand’.

Reference: Seiko Accuracy Standards – a detailed assessment at the Seikoholics forum (click here)

Photo credits: Photo 4 and 6 go to Molle Watch (click here). Other photos come from various online sources.

Like last year, Lange & Söhne prepared a Lange 1 Timezone pièce unique for the winner of the legendary competition for classic automobiles and avant-garde prototypes. This pièce unique features two unique features compared to the normal Lange 1 Timezone. First and foremost, the city for the GMT+1 timezone on the rotating city ring, which is normally Berlin, now has been replaced with Como.

And secondly, the caseback has been hand-engraved with the coat of arms of the Concorso d’Eleganza. And if you wonder why the Lange 1 Timezone Concorso d’Eleganza pièce unique is shown in front of such a futuristic background, that has everything to do with the new BMW i8, which features intelligent eDrive concept that overcame the eternal contradiction between abundant power and low fuel consumption.

This concept car has no less than 356 BHP, while fuel consumption is a mere 2.7 liters per 100 km. Exactly, no more Toyota Prius, this the car we all want!!

I could show you even more photos of the new Lange 1 Timezone pièce unique Concorco d’Eleganza 2013, but I’ll make sure to share loads of photos of watches AND cars, live from this event. So stay tuned, as we’ll be covering this event that celebrates both the beauty of classic casr and avant-garde prototypes.

For now we’ll end with the hand-engraved caseback. If you like to visit the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, please visit their website here.

Simplicity over complexity, legibility over decorations, and most important of all accuracy over function; the people at Seikosha (Seiko Manufactory at Nagano prefecture) made these three values inform their design from conception, such that the very notion of something as simple as telling the time can be perfected. Seiko set a goal that was higher than any Japanese watch company had ever accomplished: to surpass Swiss chronometer standards and create a timepiece to be called the King of all Watches – this was the starting point of the legend that is Grand Seiko.

In December 1960, the step towards Seiko’s vision of creating a chronometer certified piece was fulfilled. The very first Grand Seiko debuted in Tokyo. Powered by a manual-wound caliber 3180 and beating at a frequency of 18,000 bph (beats per hour, sometimes also referred to as vibrations per hour) or 5 bps (beats per sec). It featured a simple yet elegant gold-filled case, with a chronometer designation on the dial. The very first Grand Seiko was finally a reality.

The chronometer designation may have been the initial goal of the original Grand Seiko, but in actuality, the rigorous testing regimen conceptualized and conducted internally by Seiko was a cut above the standards laid out by COSC. A few years later, the chronometer designation was removed, declaring that the Grand Seiko watches were in a league of their own.

With such an unprecedented milestone, most manufacturers would have tried to milk this achievement as much as they could, but Seikosha is not your typical organization. Their commitment to creating the ideal watch has yet to waver, and yet that stability is not enough for Seiko to be the leader in the industry. As Mad Men account executive Pete Campbell once declared, “Stable is one step back between success and failure”.

So with such high momentum from the success of the original Grand Seiko, the watchmakers of Seikosha decided to push the envelope even further. Back then, a frequency of 18,000 bph was just average among manufacturers. Advancements on better mainspring tension and the development of better materials and lubricants paved the way for manufacturers to explore the concept of a higher frequency of beats for greater accuracy. As such, the race for higher-beat movement commenced.

In today’s standards 28,800 bph (or 8 bps) is fairly common among wristwatches, so one could easily imagine the gravity of developing a 36,000 bph or 10 bps timepiece back in the 60s. Similar to the automatic chronograph race, a joint effort among Swiss makers was needed to develop the very first 36,000 bph hi-beat movement.

Girard Perregaux headed that effort in 1966, and was first to create a 36,000 bph movement. In 1967, Seiko found their stride, their very first Hi-Beat caliber – the hand-wound 5740C. But interesting to note that the cal. 5740C was not built into a Grand Seiko, but rather it was the Seiko Lord Marvel that was honored as the company’s first 36,000 bph or 10 bps watch.

A year afterward, the Hi-Beat Grand Seiko was finally unveiled. The 61GS developed from a base Seikomatic 5, powered by a 6145 automatic Hi-Beat (36,000 bph) caliber with 25 jewels. To say that the 61GS was not only Seiko’s first, but archetypical automatic 10 beat per seconds model is an understatement; to date, the 61GS remains one of the finest achievements by the brand. It was essentially one of the best, if not the best automatic movement Seiko has ever made.

Movement Details: Seiko Automatic Cal. 6145/6146, 25 Jewels, Hi-Beat 36,000 A/h, auxiliary hand-winding and hacking mechanism.

There are actually two variants of the first Hi-Beat GS, both of which were released back in December of 1967. The photo shown here is the 6146-8000 caliber which features a day and date complication, unlike the standard 6145-8000 which features only a date function. A total of 36,000 of these gems were produced, and it is obvious where Seiko got that number from.

Why the fixation on higher-beat movement? Is faster really better, given that mechanical gears tend to degrade more rapidly as beat frequency increases? Despite the pros and cons, why are some manufacturers like Seiko and Zenith insisting on having higher-beat movements while others are not? The answer lies in the escapement itself, or the regulating organ, that comprises of the balance wheel, hairspring, escapement wheel and pallet fork. These parts combined oscillate at a certain natural frequency. For a 5 bps movement, the natural frequency would be 2.5 Hz.

A properly designed escapement would settle into a stable oscillatory mode and maintain a constant swing. The design would not be a problem if no mechanical disturbances were delivered to it. However, the natural motion of our hands subject the system to mechanical disturbances that can affect and cause timing errors. Studies have shown that the movement of our wrists are rated at frequencies below 3 Hz (6 bps). As our hands approach the natural frequencies of the escapement, the higher the likelihood for timing errors. So in essence, the higher the beat rate of the movement, the lower would be its sensitivity towards mechanical disturbances. .

Now that we have that concern about accuracy out of the way, the other concern often pointed out by collectors relates to the Hi-Beat movement having “special needs” when it comes to servicing: it requires a special lubricant to maintain those high rotational rates. Evidently, the Hi-Beat Zenith El Primero chronographs were said to require Molybdenum Sulfide-based lubricant, implying a special servicing need. However, there are movement experts who disagree with this allegation of “special needs,” based on their own actual experience working with Hi-Beat pieces.

Sufficed to say, such a claim is still an open topic today. But given the reliability and durability that the Grand Seiko line has been famous for, and adding to that the history and heritage that comes with it, a Hi-Beat GS is certainly one timepiece to own. Ultimately, the ideal watch remains an elusive goal, and the makers of Grand Seiko did make a simple watch that nonetheless stands out from the crowd. Perfection remains to be a dream, but boy did they get close.

Stay tuned for the next part of Seiko’s Affinity to Hi-Beat Movements. Next up would be King Seiko.

References: For a detailed technical analysis on hi-beat movements, check this article on Timezone.com. For more information about Grand Seiko pieces, check out their official website.

Photo credits: Photo 2, 3, 4 and 8 go to Molle Watch (click here). Credits for photo number 1, 6, and 7 go to Tony from Halfpastthehour (click here).

Ever since I tried the Graham Chronofighter on my wrist for the first time (that was back in 2006, and it was probably one of my first posts here on Monochrome), I’ve fancied them. OK, they might not be the perfect fit with a suit and tie at the office or even black tie occasion, but Graham makes excellent watches for leisure time. And that’s exactly what Marcus captured here!

This Graham Prodive Professional is a limited edition of 200 pieces, it’s Graham’s first dive watch and it features the iconic chronograph activator. It is equipped with a patented start/stop/reset mechanism which allows the chronograph to be used under water.

In order to create a fully waterproof solution, Graham chose to rotate the movement by a few degrees in the case and move the crown position from 9 o’clock to the 10 o’clock position. This also means that the small seconds indicator, which is designed as a propellor, and the 30-minute chronograph register have moved to different positions on the dial.

The 45 mm large stainless steel case is equipped with a yellow rubber coated screw-down crown and the aforementioned left hand fast-action start / stop / reset trigger that is black PVD coated. The unidirectional bezel is executed in steel with black PVD has a luminous indicator at 12 o’clock. The domed sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating on both inside and outside.

The Prodive is waterproof (and tested) to depths of 2000 feet or 600 meters. That is deeper than the average diver will ever go! White Super-LumiNova is applied on hands and indexes, also on the yellow chrono and minutes counter’s hands. The propellor shaped second indicator and first 15 minutes of the 30-minute chronograph register feature green luminescent material.

The chronograph 30-minute register is positioned approximately between 6 and 7 0′clock and the small seconds propellor indicator is placed between 3 and 5 o’clock. The date aperture is positioned at 9 o’clock.

The movement is called calibre G1750, and is an automatic mono-pusher chronograph, beating at 28’800 A/h (4Hz). In fact, the movement is a modified Valjoux 7750, delivering a power reserve of 48 hours.

It comes on a bright yellow integrated rubber strap with steel pin buckle and diver’s extension.

All photos are courtesy Marcus Behnke from the Watchlounge forum, where he posted much more photos of this Graham and other watches. Click here to visit the Watchlounge.