URWERK released a new version in the 200 collection, the URWERK 203. It’s main difference with the rest of the collection, is that it reveals its micro-mechanics for all to see.

The URWERK 203’s case is made of black platinum, a great addition next to the rose & white gold and the AlTiN coated URWERK 202. AITiN was also used for the URWERK 103 Tarantula. However the main difference is it shows the robotic functions of URWERK’s mechanisms to show time.

Robotics? Yes robotics, because URWERK doesn’t use an hour and minute hand like the majority of mechanical watches. The satellite complication is the nerve centre of the UR-203, crafted from ARCAP P40, a stable non-ferrous and non-magnetic alloy. The intricate structure is skelletonized to reveal the internal clockwork. Within the UR-203 the cams, the rubies and the transporters that ensure the alignment of the telescopic hands indicating the minutes, are all revealed.

The telescopic minute hands precisely adjust their length to follow the three vectors marking the minutes: 0 -14; 15 – 44; 45 – 60. Extended, they enable the UR-203 to display the time across a large easy-to-read, dial. Retracted, they allow for a smaller, comfortably sized case providing the wearer with the best of both worlds.

To make a stripped down model distilled to its pure essence, like Martin Frei (URWERK co-founder and designer) wanted, they had to start again at the beginning. Felix Baumgartner, URWERK co-founder and master watchmaker, says they sat down at the drawing board and completely reconsidered the satellite module. “The horological challenge with this complication was to develop a complex mechanism with the minimum of components to ensure its reliability and longevity.”

Now the carousel, hour satellites, telescopic minute hands and dial weigh 65% less than the proceeding model (UR-202). The satellite complication now tips the scales at a feather-light 3.57 grams.

Click on the photo to enlarge

The dial shows an «Oil Change» indicator and a 150 year «Horological Odometer». The «Oil Change» indicator informs the wearer when a service is due; an operation recommended every three years of movement operation. Similar to the odometer of a car, the UR-203’s «Horological Odometer» keeps track of the total number of years of operation of the movement.

The UR-203 is also equipped with URWERK’s double turbine system, the same automatic winding system that is used in the watches of the 200 collection. The turbines are mounted on rubies and are controlled by a three-position lever offering the choice of « FREE », « SPORT » or « STOP ». The position determines the force available from the automatic rotor to wind the mainspring. FREE, where the turbines spin freely; SPORT, where the air pressure generated by the turbines reduces the winding rate by approximately 35%; and STOP, where the turbines and rotor are fully blocked. The speed of the turbines can reach a maximum 16,500 RPM.

Check out the URWERK website for more details and other models.

On September 24^th the charity auction Only Watch will be held in Monaco. Many of the most prestigious Swiss watch brands created a unique watch for this charity event that is held during the Monaco Yacht Show.

All the proceeds of the Only Watch charity auction will be donated to the research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The next Only Watch auction is organized in close collaboration with Patrizzi & Co and the Monaco Yacht Show, and is under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco.

Only Watch 2009 Quai de i'Ile dial close-up

Especially for Only Watch 2009 Vacheron Constantin created it’s first tantalum watch. Vacheron Constantin decided to create a tantalum Quai de l’Ile.  Christian Selmoni, head of Product Marketing, says this choice was made because it fits into the research spirit needed when fighting against a disease as Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

The case exists of 10 parts which are fixed to a titanium inner case. The function of this titanium inner case is to hold the movement in place. This inner case itself consists of 7 pieces. The case of the Quai de l’Ile is far more sophisticated than that of a normal case.

Vacheron Constantin Quai de i'lle for Only Watch 2009

The heart of the case, flanks and bezel sections are considered as three “interchangeable” components. On ‘normal’ Vacheron Constantin Quai de l’Ile models this allows personal customisation with three different metals – Palladium, Titanium and Pink Gold. This unique piece for Only Watch 2009 is entirely made of tantalum, except the flanks. The flanks of the watch are made of palladium.

Tantalum is a very rare and noble metal, not only because of the qualities of the metal but also because it’s unique, very dark, look. Unlike other metals used on watches, the dark color is not achieved by adding coatings or other treatments, but it is the metal’s natural color.

Only Watch 2009 Quai de i'Ile dial close-up

The dial and crystal are also far from usual. The Maltese cross symbol and the numbers 12, 3, 6 and 9 are linked into the sapphire by using multiple layers technology, called galvanic growth. The other numerals are laser engraved then inked in white ink.

Furthermore, the Only Watch Quai de l’Ile features a dark red minute track engraved and painted on a lower part of the whole dial. Finally, on the inside ring of the dial, there is an outer subdial which has a decorative 3D engraving representing the logo “Only Watch”. “Only” is engraved and “Watch” is in relief, so that when the light hits the sapphire crystal the name “Only Watch” appears in three dimensions.

At the Only Watch 2009 website all the 34 unique pieces and their specifications can be found.

For Baselworld Urwerk presented the new 103T or Tarantula. Today Urwerk comes with this model in red gold and grey gold.

In april i blogged about the new Urwerk 103T Tarantula, so i won’t go to deep into the specifics. The two previous models where in stainless steel and white gold. The stainless steel treated with AlTiN (Aluminium, Titanium, Nitride) has a matte black. The white gold version is polished, giving the watch a shiny and chic look.

Urwerk 103T in grey gold

Urwerk presents the 103T in two different metals, red gold and grey gold. If you like to read more about the specifications, you can read it about it here. For now i’ll show you the new models in red gold and grey gold. The red gold version looks very good, but since i’m more a white metal kind of guy it is no surprise that i just love the grey gold version

Since i never heard of ‘grey gold’ i googled it…. Here’s some background info.

Gold is a very soft metal when it is pure (24 Kt. is pure gold). Gold is the most malleable (hammerable) and ductile (able to be made into wire) metal. To make it harder (and less expensive) it is usually alloyed, which means mixed with other metals.

Yellow gold and red gold are well know alloyes, but grey gold is new, at least to me. Yellow gold is mixed with a 50/50 copper and silver alloy. Now i hear you think… if it’s 50/50 copper and silver, where’s the gold? Remember that pure gold is 24Kt. So 18Kt yellow gold is only 75% gold. The other 25% is the mix of copper and silver. Grey gold is mixed with 15-20% iron. This would imply that grey gold is alsways around 20Kt.

Both the red gold and grey gold versions are limited to 60 pieces, like the black version.

Urwerk 103T in red gold

On my first day of Baselworld i visited The Watch factory where a lot of independent watch brands where gathered. Among them Urwerk with of course their much talked about Tarantula! Luckily the charming Yacine Sar from Urwerk also brought some other watches like the 103 TiAlN on her own wrist

URWERK 103 TiAlN

The URWERK 103T Tarantula is newest from this innovative watchbrand. Master watchmaker Felix Baumgartner and visionary chief designer Martin Frei are the creative minds behind URWERK.

The 103T looks more or less the same as the ‘normal’ 103, but what’s normal about this watch in the first place? The huge difference is a new crystal that gives you full view on the watch’s time display mechanism. Since this crawles across the ‘dial’ this version of the 103 is also called the Tarantula.

103T orbital satellite

When taking a closer look you will see the 103T is actually very different from the classic 103. In the classic UR103, the central element is an orbital cross in titanium. In the new UR103T, the titanium cross has been replaced by a completely redesigned structure in ARCAP. The dark ARCAP is a very stable copper/nickel alloy, that is light, non magnetic and corrosion resistant.

The four satellites of the UR103T are made of aluminum and mounted on their own bronze/beryllium Geneva cross. The mechanism is then suspended from the orbital cross structure in ARCAP and is mounted on an ARCAP plate.

This new configuration ensures that the numbers on the hour satellites can only be seen when they are required to tell the time while passing the arc of the minutes. In this the new URWERK 103T is also different from the classic 103 with the open satellite system.

The orbital satellite complication of the 103T is over 300 times heavier than traditional hands which is a factor that requires absolute precision in the manufacture of its minuscule components and in assembling, balancing and regulating the complication to obtain the excellent chronometric performance URWERK demands of its exceptional timepieces.

Here’s the new URWERK 103T Tarantula, beautiful isn’t it?

URWERK 103T - Tarantula

The case is made of stainless steel treated with AlTiN (Aluminium, Titanium, Nitride) and is 36mm wide, 13,5mm thick and measures 50mm from lug to lug. The hour satellites complete a full revolution under the orbital cross every four hours. Over a one-year time span each orbital cross completes 2190 rotations and each satellite 730 revolutions on its own axis.

At the caseback the URWERK 103T has even more to show. Here’s the control board that features a 43-hour power reserve indicator, a chrono meter with minutes and seconds facilitating accurate time-setting and a precision adjustment screw making it possible for the owner to precisely regulate the timing.

On my wrist is my favorite Tarantula… a black 103T Tarantula

URWERK 103T Tarantula

For more information about URWERK check their website or the URWERK forum at Horomundi.