Monochrome Watches » Audemars Piguet

Hublot King Power Alinghi 4000 – Team Alinghi and the Swiss Watch Industry

mono — Sat, 05 May 2012 13:26:51 +0000

Hublot King Power Alinghi 4000 – Team Alinghi and the Swiss Watch Industry is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Hublot just released the King Power Alinghi 4000 to show their partnership with Team Alinghi. Alinghi definitely does something good, as Hublot is not the first of their official timekeeping partners.

A few years ago Audemars Piguet partnered with Alinghi and that also resulted is some cutting-edge technical timepieces. In fact, this resulted in the world’s first watch with a carbon fibre case, which was the Royal Oak Offshore Team Alinghi. Do we see some similarities with the Hublot King Power Alinghi 4000?

Both watches share more than a carbon fibre case; they are both big, black and we assume rather robust. With a depth rating of 4,000 meters the Hublot King Power Alinghi 4000 is also one of watches with the highest depth rating in the world. The Oceana 5000, made by independent watchmaker Aniceto Pita from Spain, still holds the record with a depth rating of 5,000 meters!

Audemars Piguet’s carbon fibre creation for Alinghi, the Royal Oak Offshore Team Alinghi, did not have such an impressive depth rating but did feature a chronograph. Depth ratings of more than 100 meters don’t make much sense for most people, not even when sailing on rough seas. A relatively limited depth rating is sufficient to keep the inside dry and that’s pretty much what you’re looking for.

Audemars Piguet also released several other Royal Oak version for Alinghi and that resulted in both mens and ladies timepieces. Oour friends from the Sidney Tarts had a great photo of the Royal Oak Alinghi Polaris that I’d love to share with you, as it’s still one of my favorite versions of the Royal Oak Offshore.

In previous years Hublot already released other versions of the King Power 4000 models with a carbon fibre case. This new one features the Alinghi logo on the dial and is limited to 100 pieces. Two years ago Hublot already made another watch to honor the cooperation between Hublot and Alinghi. That was the Hublot King Power Alinghi, which didn’t featured a carbon fibre case, but a black ceramic case. And also not a dive watch that time, but a chronograph.

The thing it has in comon with the new King Power Alinghi 4000 is the Alinghi logo and it’s size; it was also 48 mm in diameter like the new one. Our friends from Watchonista had the chance to be in Geneva for the launch of the King Power Alinghi 4000 and shared some photos of the event and the watch.

The King Power Alinghi 4000 is limited to 100 numbered pieces. Here are some specifications.

Size – diameter 48 mm (no mention of thickness)
Case and bezel – matt carbon fibre (bezel with 6 H-shaped black PVD titanium screws)
Crystal – sapphire with anti-reflective coating Black composite resin
Crown at 2 o’clock – Black PVD titanium with black rubber insert, red arrows and black PVD titanium, “Diver 4000″ engraved in red (crown guard)
Water resistance – certified to 400 ATM, equivalent to 4000 meters
Movement – mechanical movement with automatic winding, caliber HUB1401, with 23 jewels and 180 components
Power reserve – approximately 42 hours

And not only watch brands line up to collaborate with Alinghi. Wenger, famous for their Swiss army knives, are partnering with Alinghi as well. They created an Alinghi pocket knive that looks very cool.

Like I said in the beginning of this article, Alinghi must be doing something very good. Top watch brands are lined up to collaborate with them. Not sure what they are doing so well, but it must be something. I’m still waiting for watch brands to line up to collaborate with Monochrome for a nice ‘Monochrome Limited Edition’

This article is written by Frank Geelen, executive editor of Monochrome Watches.

Alain Delon’s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo sells for Absolute Record Price

mono — Tue, 10 Apr 2012 10:36:46 +0000

Alain Delon’s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo sells for Absolute Record Price is a post from: Monochrome.nl

This is unheard of, the vintage Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo, which belonged to French actor Alain Delon, was sold at an auction last week, for an absolute record price of € 68,750 Euro!!

This price is even more spectacular, when considering Delon’s Royal Oak Jumbo does not have the much desired dial with the AP-logo at 6 o’clock; something the newly released Jumbo does have. Nor did the auctioneers website mention whether it’s an A-series or one of the later (also seventies) B, C or D-series.

Last month a very sought-after A series with AP @ 6 dial from 1972, that our friends of Hodinkee showed us, sold for € 31,200 Euro (37,500 CHF). That price was was already an absolute record.

Alain Delon has worn his Royal Oak during the shooting of several of his movies, like “Comme un boomerang” (1976) and “Ne reveillez pas un flic qui dort” (1988). The estimate for Delon’s Royal Oak Jumbo was set at 2,500 – 3,000 Euro which is of course a ridiculous low estimate. During the auction another of Delon’s watches set a new record; his Cartier Tank sold exactly the same price.

According to the French website Le Point, Delon’s Royal Oak was sold to an Asian buyer for no less than € 55,000 Euro which means € 68,750 Euro including buyer’s premium.

The Cartier Tank that was sold, is a very rare model, 18 carat yellow gold with sides of Lapiz Lazuli at the sides of the case. Engraved in the case back are Delon’s initials. The estimate for this Cartier Tank was set at 1,600 – 1,800 Euro and it was also bought by an Asian buyer for a record price of € 55,000 Euro or € 68,750 Euro including the buyer’s premium.

This article was written by Frank Geelen, executive editor of Monochrome Watches.

SIHH 2012 – the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

mono — Thu, 09 Feb 2012 11:32:03 +0000

SIHH 2012 – the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph is a post from: Monochrome.nl

By now it should be no secret anymore that Audemars Piguet revamped the Royal Oak collection and I’ve already shared my enthusiasm about the Royal Oak Jumbo. Another one that, in my humble opinion, looks absolutely superb, is the new Royal Oak Chronograph.

The new Royal Oak Chronograph is 2 mm larger than its predecessor, that measured 39 mm in diameter. While I usually cheer for downsizing, I was amazed to feel how incredibly comfortable the RO Chrono is and how perfect the fit is.

Last year I tried a friend’s Royal Oak Jumbo for a week and my conclusion was that it just was not my kind of watch. He also has a RO Chrono, that looks magnificent, but again, not my choice. So imagine my amazement when trying the new Royal Oak Jumbo and the new Royal Oak Chronograph. When I put it on my wrist, it was like everything fell into place. The diameter, thickness, the bracelet and clasp, and the finer ‘hobail’ pattern on the dial. It was as if every small detail that slightly bothered me, had been improved.

The biggest improvement is the dial. The old dial’s 12 o’clock marker is a triangle with super luminova and all other hour markers are quite thick markers, also with applied super luminova. On the new dial the 12 o’clock marker has been replaced by a double applied stick marker and all other hour markers are now thinner and longer. Somehow this give the new Royal Oak Chronograph a more refined look.

Another big improvement and something that held me back from buying the previous RO Chrono, is the ‘hobnail’ pattern on the dial. The ‘hobnails’ are slightly smaller than before, but it looks much different. And although the tapisserie pattern is smaller, Audemars Piguet calls it ‘grande tapisserie’. The reason for this is probably that the even finer pattern of the new Royal Oak Jumbo and the original Royal Oak Jumbo from 1972 is called ‘petit tapisserie’.

Audemars Piguet now makes all Royal Oak dials in-house, using the historical machines to apply a ‘ramolayé’ or pounced ornament technique.

The diameter has increased from 39 mm to 41 mm. Usually I’m all for downgrading size, however the 41 mm Royal Oak case with its gorgeous integrated bracelet fits perfect. So no complaints, its good! Another thing that Looks and feels great is the new deployment clasp, that now comes with a locking push-button.

Inside is still the Audemars Piguet caliber 2385, an automatic chronograph movement. Unfortunately it’s not visible because the RO Chrono does not have an exhibition caseback.

The Royal Oak Chronograph is available in stainless steel and 18k pink gold. At the SIHH I’ve seen white and black dials and I wouldn’t be amazed if Audemars Piguet will release the odd Limited Edition from time to time

The steel version of the RO Chronograph retails at € 19.290 (including tax). The 18k pink gold version starts at CHF 38.600 (excl VAT) on a leather alligator strap and with 18k gold deployant clasp; the version on 18k pink gold bracelet costs CHF 60K.

More information… at the Audemars Piguet website.

The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo – SIHH 2012

mono — Wed, 18 Jan 2012 12:17:41 +0000

The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo – SIHH 2012 is a post from: Monochrome.nl

This year is Audemars Piguet celebrates the 40th anniversary of the Royal Oak. The timepiece Gerald Genta design and that was launched in 1972, became a true classic and an icon in the horological history.

For this celebration they release many new Royal Oak models and among them a new Royal Oak Jumbo, a new Royal Oak Automatic and a Royal Chronograph. My personal preference is the new Royal Oak Jumbo and my first reaction is… I WANT ONE!

The new Royal Oak Jumbo has brought back several elements of the original Jumbo from 1972, like the AP logo that is now (again) positioned above the 6 o’clock position. Like on the old version, the new Jumbo has no white line around the date window. This is something I’m pleased with and I’m sure many enthusiasts will love it as well. The hobnail dial is now finer, with smaller hobnails (or tapisserie), however not as fine/small as on the vintage version.

The dial now has a black/blue/grey color and how it looks depends on the light and angle you look at it. According to Audemars Piguet, the color is pretty much similar to how the original one used to be when it was launched. I actually thought the original was black and vintage models from the early seventies have changed color over the years. So maybe AP wanted to get as close as possible to the color of the vintage dials? Not sure, we’ll get back on this and let you know.

The double index markers at 12 o’clock are back, which looks great, and the left out the small arabic numerals above the hour markers. New is the black datewheel with white date font, which is in my opinion a great improvement.

The bracelet is slightly thicker and has a more solid feel than on the vintage Jumbo reference 5402. Purist might find that a bummer, but personally I’m glad the bracelet has a bit more hefty feeling to it, because I always found the old version quite fragile. Not that it is fragile… it feels fragile.

The now introduced a double folding clasp with double push button to open the clasp and that is also a great improvement in my opinion. Much easier to open en close and actually more contemporary.

The movement used in the vintage Jumbo, was the gorgeous caliber 2121, which was based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920. In the previous Jumbo, Audemars Piguet changed the caliber to their own caliber as introduced in 1969. This movement was also used in the previous Jumbo and now in this latest version of the Royal Oak Jumbo. It looks like only the rotor has been changed.

What has changed in comparison to the vintage Royal Oak ref. 5402 ST?

black date wheel with white numerals
thicker bracelet
double folding clasp with double push buttons
rotor
maybe the color of the dial

And what has changed compared to the previous Royal Oak ref. 15202 ST?

not the reference, because that remained 15202 ST
also not the diameter, which is still 39 mm
finer hobnail dial
no white line around date window
black datewheel with white date numerals
thicker bracelet with double folding clasp with double push buttons
double stick marker at 12 o’clock
AP logo above the 6 o’clock position
no roman numerals (to indicate the minutes) around the dial

No final word on the price yet, but the previous Royal Oak Jumbo was available for € 17,900 Euro including vat/tax. When we know more about the price we’ll let you know. One way or another, I’m positive the demand will be huge!

EDIT: The price is € 19,800 Euro (including VAT/tax).

Later more about other versions of the Royal Oak collection!

Audemars Piguet – Jules Audemars Extra-Thin Bolshoi Limited Edition

mono — Fri, 09 Dec 2011 13:06:18 +0000

Audemars Piguet – Jules Audemars Extra-Thin Bolshoi Limited Edition is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Audemars Piguet released a limited edition of the Jules Audemars Extra-Thin in honor of the re-opening of the Bolshoi theatre. The facade of this renowned Russian theatre is engraved in the rotor.

Although we believe the Bolshoi is a beautiful theater, we are actually more exited about the limited edtion Audemars Piguet created. The Jules Audemars collection does unfortunately not get enough attention on the internet, being blown away by the massive popularity of the Royal Oak (RO) and Royal Oak Offshore (ROO). Luckily there are other AP models that do get some attention, like the Millenary 4101 that recently was awarded with the Public Prize of the Grand Prix, the Millenary Star Wheel and now this Jules Audemars Extra-Thin Bolshoi.

The special Jules Audemars Extra-Thin Bolshoi comes in either pink or white gold and has an elegant anthracite dial. The case measures 41 mm in diameter and measures only 6.7 mm in height. Usually we would expect such a classic dress watch to be around 36 mm in diameter, maximum 39 mm, but Audemars Piguet choose for a more contemporary size.

The dial of this limited edition looks absolutely fabulous and we actually prefer it over the dials available on the normal Extra-Thin models. Applied hour markers are placed around the edge of the dial and made of white gold or pink gold, of course matching the case. One of those superb details, that can also be found on the Millenary collection, is the rounded mid-case with brushed/satin finish. The bezel is polish, drawing the attention to the dial and giving the whole watch something understated ‘chique’.

The real gem is the extra-thin movement, caliber 2120, which is the same movement used in the vintage Royal Oak ref. 5402 and the Royal Oak P10 Edition. It measures 2.45 mm in height, which is very thin for an automatic movement, especially since it has a full rotor. This rotor is skeletonized and shows the facade of the famous Bolshoi theatre.

If I had the choice, I would get this limited edition if it where only for the beautiful dial. Of course one might expect a limited edition too keep its value, probably better than a non-limited edition.

Jules Audemars Extra-Thin Limited Edition « Bolshoï » specifications

Movement:

diameter: 28.49 mm
Thickness: 2.45 mm
37 jewels, 214 parts
Power reserve: approx. 40 hours
Balance: 19’800 vibrations/hour

Case: 18-carat white gold or pink gold case, Sapphire crystal case-back, water-resistant to 20m

Dial: Anthracite dial, white gold or pink gold applied hour-markers

Strap: Hand-stitched ‘’large square scale’’ anthracite crocodile strap with 18-carat white gold or pink gold pin buckle

Both models together are limited to 99 pieces, 50 in pink gold and 49 in white gold. For more info and availability we usually advice to check the Audemars Piguet website, however we cannot find any details. At the AP website you can find points of sale, where you can ask for more info.

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve Award winners at Salon de Belles Montres

mono — Thu, 24 Nov 2011 15:49:25 +0000

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve Award winners at Salon de Belles Montres is a post from: Monochrome.nl

And the winner is… De Bethune with the DB28. The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is more or less the Oscars of the watch industry and the De Bethune DB28 won the Aiguille d’Or which can be seen as the most important prize. This weekend all winning timepieces will be on exposition at Salon de Belles Montres in Paris.

Besides the Aiguille d’Or (the golden hand) prizes where awarded in many other categories, just like at the Oscars. It must be said that the De Bethune DB28 is a remarkable watch and I’m not surprised it won. Technically at the forefront, a futuristic design and ergonomically unmatched.

De Bethune is a brand that is very different from other watch brands, or perhaps even very different from the entire watch industry. The relatively small manufacture is in the Swiss Jura and is run by David Zanetta and technical director (master watchmaker) Denis Flageollet. Although De Bethune is a relatively small independent brand, they keep amazing watch collectors with a constant stream of innovations. Besides the innovations at the technical side, they also innovate on the design side and aren’t scared to come up with a magnificent new case that is the most comfortable I’ve ever tried on my wrist.

The persons who handed over the award where Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey who won the Aiguille d’Or last year for their Double Tourbillon 30 degrees Edition Historique. Another independent watch brand that pushes the boundaries of technical innovation and sets new limits for the beauty of finishing.

Besides the Aiguille d’Or there where prizes in other categories as well. Audemars Piguet won the Public Prize for the Millenary 4101, a well deserved prize for Audemars Piguet. Although the Millenary 4101 is maybe not the ‘talk of the town’ on the internet, we’ve always noticed that whenever we wrote about the Millenary, like our review of the fabulous Millenary Star Wheel, the responses where surprised and very positive.

Another magnificent prize winner, is made by Hermès. Not the usual watch brand however they are making very interesting timepieces and their new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu is not only beautiful, it has a very interesting feature to stop time How? Well, check out our report on the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu.

Personally, I would have had a hard time choosing between Laurent Ferrier‘s Galet Micro-rotor (left) or Kari Voutilainen’s Vingt-8 (right on the photo below) as best men’s watch. Both are extraordinary beautiful and elegant men’s watches and both have a movement that is simply stunning.

When it comes to design, there are several young and innovative watch brands who do such a great job. They know how to show us time in an unusual but very refreshing way. After Vianney Halter (awarded as Best Watchmaker), URWERK was also one of the first to shock the watch industry, and many collectors, with their out-of-the-box approach to telling time. URWERK winning the DesignWatch award for the stunning UR-110, is something that is simply meant to be and also very well deserved!

In order not to be distracted by the marvelous techniques, the UR-110 can comfortably be worn under the sleeve and it’s easy to let just a small part peek from under your sleeve to read the time.

The Petit Aiguille was won by Montblanc for the Star Worldtime GMT Automatic, a very nice watch that I saw at the SIHH earlier this year. A very nice execution of a Worldtime GMT watch and especially on the steel bracelet it looks ver nice.

At the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève website you can see all winners in all categories and find much more information, even from previous years. Here is the list with this years winners:

“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix: De Bethune, DB28
Best Ladies Watch Prize: Boucheron, Hathi
Best Men’s Watch Prize: Hermès, Arceau Le Temps Suspendu
Best Design Watch Prize: Urwerk, UR-110
Best Jewellery and Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Polar Landscape
Best Complicated Watch Prize: Zenith, Academy Christophe Colomb Equation of Time
Best Sports Watch Prize: TAG Heuer, Mikrotimer Flying 1000 Chronograph
“Petite Aiguille” Prize (for models under CHF 5’000): Montblanc, Star Worldtime GMT Automatic
Best Watchmaker Prize: Vianney Halter
Special Jury Prize: Patek Philippe Museum
Public Prize: Audemars Piguet, Millenary 4101

If you’re in Paris or in the position to visit Paris in the next few days, you can see all the winning timepieces at Salon de Belles Montres. Salon Belles Montres is from Friday 25th until Sunday 27th of November in the Louvre in Paris.

Pre SIHH 2012 – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Openworked Extra-Thin 40th Anniversary

mono — Sat, 12 Nov 2011 08:53:21 +0000

Pre SIHH 2012 – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Openworked Extra-Thin 40th Anniversary is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Next year the Audemars Piguet will celebrate the 40 anniversary of the Royal Oak, that was designed in by the late Gerald Genta in 1972. To celebrate this anniversary in due style, the Audemars Piguet now unveils the Openworked Extra-Thin Royal Oak, a platinum anniversary edition, limited series of just 40.

The first Royal Oak, launched in 1972, was not just another watch. The Royal Oak was the world’s first luxury sports watch and set a trend that was followed by others. During the past 40 year, the Royal Oak has left an indelible imprint on the history of Audemars Piguet and actually on the entire watch industry.

The 39 mm diameter of this Openworked Extra-Thin Royal Oak is identical to that of the 1972 Royal Oak. Considered outsized and extravagant at the time of its launch, it shaped the trend for larger watches and now represents a medium-sized diameter. The platinum case is water-resistant to 50 metres and fitted with sapphire crystals front and back that are treated with anti reflective coating.

The octagonal bezel and its eight polished hexagonal screws – consistently made in white gold – are held on the case-back side by eight recessed nuts. The Royal Oak also owes its reputation to the total integration of the case– a definite rarity in 1972 – with the tapering bracelet composed of non-identical links arranged by decreasing order of size. This set of signature features has been inherent in the collection right from its origins and is still sported by all the current Royal Oak models. The new folding clasp, also in 950 platinum, is distinguished by a double safety fastening system.

The ultra-thin selfwinding proprietary Calibre 5122 is 3.05 mm, which is the same thickness as the famous caliber 2121 that used in the very first Royal Oak. Audemars Piguet choose to skeletonize the movement and use galvanic treatment to get an anthracite color.

All finishing of the bridges and mainplate (polishing, satin-brushing, circular-graining, circular satin-brushing and drawn flanks) is done by hand. The monobloc oscillating weight entirely made in 22-carat gold bears the raised inscription “AP Royal Oak 1972-2012”.

The Audemars Piguet Openworked Ultra-Thin Royal Oak 40th Anniversary is limited to 40 pieces in platinum.

Audemars Piguet Millenary Star Wheel reviewed

mono — Mon, 29 Aug 2011 05:59:18 +0000

Audemars Piguet Millenary Star Wheel reviewed is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Monochrome had the chance to wear a very rare Audemars Piguet for two weeks. We bring you a review of the Audemars Piguet Millenary Star Wheel!

Recently a good friend said he was going to sell his Audemars Piguet Millenary Star Wheel. This is one of those watches we always enjoy seeing at collector’s dinners and other watchgeek meetings. However this one is so rare that chances you come across one are very rare. So we had to jump to the occasion…

We would like to thank the owner for letting us wear, photograph and review this magnificent timepiece. We believe the Audemars Piguet Star Wheel models to be landmark pieces in watchmaking history and we always wondered how much inspiration Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, from URWERK, found in the Audemars Piguet Star Wheel.

This particular version was released by Audemars Piguet in 2000 for their 125^th anniversary. It was a limited edition of 50 pieces in yellow gold, 75 pieces in rose gold and 125 pieces in steel. The Star Wheel complication wasn’t new to the Audemars Piguet collection, as they already released a Star Wheel in 1991. For the 125th anniversary, Audemars Piguet also released a pocket watch featuring a star wheel complication to display the month and date. Audemars Piguet also created a Star Wheel with minute repeater. Now back to the Millenary Star Wheel…

Overall appearance

The overall appearance of this watch is simply incredibly elegant. This is just the first impression and at second glance you see the star wheel complication. Although it’s right in the middle of the dial, it doesn’t draw too much attention. It’s intriguing and you immediately start wondering how this works. When a watch like this is on the wrist, the time is not the first thing we look for. When looking for the time, one might need a little time to get used to the (digital) way the time is displayed.

The Millenary case has a beautiful oval shape that has been designed with much attention for detail. This is also the case for the dial, the complication and… well actually everything of this watch has been well thought through. The more you look, the more details you notice that are just perfect, down to the hefty rose gold tang buckle.

The typical dial layout does have its advantages as well. When only a small part of the dial is peeking from under your jacket or shirt’s sleeve, it’s easy to read the time.

Let’s take a closer look…

Features

The features of the Millenary Star Wheel look simple, however they are quite complicated. It tells the time in an entirely different way than most mechanical timepieces, who make use of the typical hour and minute hands. The Millenary Star Wheel uses a so-called star wheel complication and displays the time digitally; the hours, visible in a 120-degree white scale/arc, point to the current minute that is to the right of the hour. The hours are printed on three sapphire disks, which are mounted on star shaped wheels (hence the name of the watch) and these are attached to a rotating center wheel. This entire assembly turns and the current hour is always displayed above the fore mentioned 120-degree white scale, with the minutes to the right of it.

The star wheel complication was first released in 1991 in a round watch with a diameter of 36 mm. The time display was positioned on the topside of the dial, where the time display of the Millenary Star Wheel has moved to the right side of the dial.

Attached on the center staff, where usually the hour and minute hands are attached, is a rotating center ring on which the star wheels are attached. The sapphire disks with hour printed on them, are attached on the star wheels. The rotating ring turn 360 degrees, one full turn, in 3 hours. The minutes are displayed besides a 120 degree arc, so when an hour passes along that 120 arc, it takes exactly 1 hour for the hour indicator to start at the 1st minute and end at the 59th minute. Here you can see the hour pointing to the 57th minute and the next hour is already lining up, shortly before the 1st minute.

The movement of the hours along the minutes besides the 120 degree arc, is driven from the continuously rotating ring. When a sapphire disk is not over the 120 degree arc, the star wheel combined with other parts take care of positioning the correct next hour.

Watches with a jumping hour complication require quite some force once every hour, to let the hour jump. This is however no jumping hour construction, but the sapphire disks with hours do need two (small) rotations to position the correct hour before it reaches the 120 degree arc. Changing of a jumping hour, or even a date, a moon phase or a perpetual calendar will influence the watch’s rate in a negative way. While a date only changes once every 24 hours, the sapphire hour disks of the Star Wheel will make a small rotation 2 times every hour. This means 48 times per day! The forces caused by this, must be as minimal as possible to reduce negative forces on the watch’s rate.

Dial/hands

The dial is light grey with a 120 degree white arc on the right side, with a minute scale. The name of the brand, Audemars Piguet, is printed on the right side of the dial, and the name of the watch, Star Wheel, is printed at the usual 6 o’clock position. At the 12 o’clock position we see the Audemars Piguet logo printed in gold matching the color of the rose gold case.

When you’re familiar with the watch, the construction of rotating wheel and the star wheels with attached sapphire hour disks are becoming a feast to look at. The parts of this complication are beautifully hand-finished with angling and polishing. Although the complication is positioned in the middle of the dial, it is done in an extremely elegant way and thus not something that draws too much attention nor is it visibly ‘loud’.

Case/strap

The oval case is brushed and has a polished bezel. Because the sides of the case are rounded, we can only assume the brush-finishing must be incredibly difficult and can only be done by hand.

The screw down case back is closed with an brushed middle part and posilhed edges. On the brushed middle section of the case back we find engravings. In the middle of the case back is the word “Millenary” engraved and below that is “Série Limitee 125 And”, above it we find a serial number.

The crown shows an embossed AP logo and gives enough grip when winding the watch or adjusting the time. The lugs are entirely polished.

Originally the Millenary Star Wheel comes on a light grey calf leather strap, however the owner of this particular Star Wheel attached a stingray strap, custom made by ABP Paris. A splendid combination! The strap is closed by a relatively thick tang buckle.

Movement

The movement Audemars Piguet used is caliber 2224/2811; caliber 2224 is the base caliber. This is an automatic movement, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz). The base movement has 35 jewels, we have however no information about the number of extra jewels used for the complication. The movement measures 26.00 mm (or 11.5 ligne) and is 4.85 mm thick; again no information on the additional thickness added because of the complication. The power reserve is 35 hours when fully wound.

The verdict – pros and cons

We simply love the Audemars Piguet Millenary Star Wheel. For its magnificent complication, for being a source of inspiration for others, for the gorgeous classy and sophisticated looks, for its comfortable wearing, for how easy it is to read the time, even when it just peeks from under your jacket or shirt’s sleeve… Visually it isn’t ‘loud’ and yet it’s a complicated watch. A watch with classic looks and a great story to talk about.

Unfortunately it’s time for us to say goodbye to the Millenary Star Wheel and return it to its owner, after one more photo…

Edit: This Audemars Piguet Millenary Star Wheel is for sale at Watch-store.com; click on the A-B section to see it.

The Auction Hammer – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo

mono — Tue, 21 Jun 2011 08:06:37 +0000

The Auction Hammer – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Another magnificent find is an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo A-series, that is for auction this Saturday. Although the Antiquorum auction is in Hongkong, you can also bid online!

Since this A-series of the Royal Oak Jumbo, the most sought-after of all Royal Oaks, featuring the AP logo just above the 6 o’clock position, in stead of positioned at the 12 o’clock position like later Royal Oak Jumbos. This A-series also features the finer hobnail dial, that looks more refined that the bigger hobnail pattern found on later RO’s.

According to Antiquorum this is No. A 745 and it’s made in 1972. The estimated price, between $ 7,800 and $ 10,000 , seems LOW. Even when you know the case has some scratches and the (original) hands are slightly oxidized. The Antiquorum condition report states that the movement is in good condition, however they advices a complete overhaul. Something that is always smart to do, when you buy a used watch that has not been serviced to quite some time.

This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo reference 5402 A Series is LOT 252 of the upcoming Antiquorum auction in Hongkong.

Weekly Watch Photo – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402

mono — Sun, 29 May 2011 16:10:40 +0000

Weekly Watch Photo – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402 is a post from: Monochrome.nl

A Weekly Watch Photo that is perfect in every way. A beautiful watch, a beautiful photo, all in monochrome colors and at the right moment. Why? Well, Audemars Piguet just announced a special Royal Oak Jumbo to celebrate 10th anniversary of the Purists Pro watch forum.

The photo below shows the ‘real deal’, the ‘real McCoy’, a watch that’s high on the wish-list of many watch collectors (including me). It is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo reference 5402.

These vintage Royal Oak Jumbo’s are very difficult to find and if you find one, be prepared to pay a serious price. I prefer this vintage Jumbo (ref 5402) over the newer Jumbo (ref 15202), because of the finer ‘clous-de-paris’ dial. The photo above shows the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402 A-Serie from a private collector (who wishes to remain anonymous).

While the ‘normal’ Royal Oak Jumbo (ref 15202) is already difficult to aquire, Audemars Piguet will bring a limited edition of 10 pieces of the Royal Oak Jumbo to celebrate ten years of the Purists Pro watch forum. Yes indeed, only ten pieces indeed, so the demand will be huge. Even with a price of CHF 49,500 (ex VAT) which is kind of steep.

But for this price Audemars Piguet does offer a very special PuristS edition. First of all the bezel and bracelet links will be made of tantalum. This offers a nice contrast with the stainless steel case and bracelet.

The movement of the Royal Oak Jumbo is the legendary caliber 2120, that will also appear in this limited edition. For the limited edition the movement will be partially skeletonized and the base plate will get a dark anthracite rodium finished for extra contrast.

But, the real trait for collectors is the special “P10″ rotor!

Look at the Audemars Piguet forum of PuristS Pro for more details and how to order on of only 10 pieces.