Monochrome Watches » A. Lange und Söhne

Lange & Söhne Pour le Mérite – An interview about Honouring Fine Watchmaking

mono — Thu, 03 May 2012 10:53:00 +0000

Lange & Söhne Pour le Mérite – An interview about Honouring Fine Watchmaking is a post from: Monochrome.nl

The Lange & Söhne Pour le Mérite Collection is a pinnacle in fine watchmaking. Our friend Peter Chong, who featured here on Monochrome on many ocassions, wrote a book about the very best watches coming from Saxony, Germany.

Friend of Monochrome, Peter Nievaart, interviewed Peter Chong about his passion for A. Lange & Söhne and the book he wrote in honor of the Pour le Mérite Collection. Peter Nievaart in conversation with Peter Chong….

Pour le Mérite book - photo by Edwin Heusinkveld

Last Christmas I received a truly remarkable book about the Pour le Mérite collection of A. Lange & Söhne, written by Peter Chong. It is not just a book about watches. It a tribute to fine watchmaking in Glashütte with a monumental size of 42 by 30 centimeters. The book contains many A3 and A2 sized photos of various details, including finishing and the servicing of a Tourbillon Pour le Mérite. The size and the quality of the photos provide a unique view on the fine parts of a watch movement. The book also contains a lot useful information about hallmarks, calibre numbering, the Pour le Mérite order, calibres with in-house springs, and awards and prizes won by. The interviews with collectors and Günter Blümlein are entertaining and informative. It is the ultimate treat for a watch aficionado! I had the chance to talk with Peter about his passion for Lange and his book.

Pour le Mérite book - photo by Edwin Heusinkveld

Why a book about Lange’s Pour le Mérite collection?

PC: I have done pre and post Basel/SIHH reports, first hand accounts and photographs of the novelties since 1999. And did the world’s first review of the Datograph right when it was announced in 1999. And I harbored the ambition to be a published author on my own right. And of course, the natural subject was on Lange. To do a book on all of Lange’s offering would take me too long, so I elected to write about the flagship line.

In your book you write about your history with Lange. What makes Lange special?

PC: Perhaps it is a combination of things. The history of the brand, the importance of Lange in modern horology, the people working for Lange, the close working relationships I developed, the quality of the watches and the combination of craftmanship and tradition. The watches also have a very unique presence. The movements used in every Lange are exclusive to the brand. Everything is meticulously conceived and crafted to achieve a consistent design language and signature. From a distance you immediately recognize a Lange. I believe Walter Lange can be very proud of what has been achieved since the resurrection of the brand.

A Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk

Why does Lange not work with a base movement?

PC: that is part of the guiding principles introduced by by Günter Blümlein: innovation, technique, technology, craftsmanship, exclusivity, and tradition. Each watch is unique and exclusive. Movement and case must be in full harmony. Yet, there are common denominators such as the three-quarter plate, the blued screwed chatons, the superb finishing of all components, including the invisible ones, and the individually engraved swan neck balance cocks.

Hand engraved balance cock and swan neck fine adjustment

What differentiates the Pour le Mérite collection from other Langes?

PC: The Pour le Mérite is the flagship line, and the fusée-and-chain system to ensure constant force, which makes the watch highly exclusive.

In the book you will find an extensive description how the system works, documented with detailed photographs. The chain consists of 650 pieces and is derived from miniaturizing the chains used in bicycles and pocket watches. The links overlap and are held together by a pin. A key challenge is to allow for sufficient end-shake (libre sans jeux or “free without play”) between each set of links to enable them to move freely relative to each other but without any play between them.

Lange & Söhne Pour le Mérite fusee chain

If there would be only one watch to own, which one would it be?

PC: The Lange Datograph in platinum due to its purity of the design, case, dial, hands and the gorgeous movement. The watch is excellently finished, but also beautifully laid out. There are, however, some other watches I highly appreciate:

Dufour Simplicity – the best finished watch I have ever come across. Beautifully designed and executed. You cannot get better finish than this.
Credor Sonnerie – wonderful craftsmanship. I admire the folks at the Micro Artisan Studio in Shiojiri, Japan. Totally focussed, obsessed with quality and finish. They chose not to mimic the traditional Swiss repeating systems and created a Sonnerie in their own fashion, where the strikes model after the calming rhythm, tones and decay of a traditional Japanese temple bell.
Parmigiani Toric Westminster – magnificent finish. I love the movement design, the flow of the bridges. The strikes are also masterfully tuned. Lower in tone than most repeaters, it is decisive, clear, clean and decays beautifully. Each strike resonates beautifully within the case.
Laurent Ferrier Galet Tourbillon – Beautiful design and finish. Absolutely and totally classic in design and execution.
Girard Perregaux Tourbillon with three golden bridges The President – this is a special execution where the magnificent 3 golden bridges are not shown on the dial side. The dial is a beautiful enamel dial, totally classical and discrete.
Harry Winston Opus V by Urwerk – totally imaginative way to tell time using rotating cubes, and retrograde pointers.

Parmigiani Toric Westminster Repeater

Günter Blümlein has been pivotal for Lange. He also plays an important role in your book. Many people in the industry speak highly about Mr. Blümlein, including Walter Lange. What made him so special?

PC: Blümlein was the genius behind rebuilding of the Lange brand. His clarity of vision in the late 1980s was remarkable. He gave all he had and all he knew to the Lange project, as it was known then, and pulled off the remarkable return of the brand.

He was a true visionary. It seemed as if he could see the future and how to get there. You should know that in 1990 Glashütte had just come out of 40 years of communism. Luxury was an alien concept. But yet, he saw that, from these ashes, the old name of Lange & Söhne could rise, and rival with the best brands of Switzerland.

He was a great leader. He handpicked the team with Walter Lange, and inspired them to greatness. He gave room to experiment. The Langematik was one such result. While the management team was focused on other products, distribution system, press and public relationships, Helmut Geyer worked, in a little corner-office in Glashütte, on his own to design the movement of a new automatic. He showed it to Blümlein who was moved by the beauty of the design and decided to build a watch based on this movement. The Langematik was introduced in 1997 and is still a great success.

He was a good friend.

Peter Chong and Günter Blümlein

The Lange family and Walter Lange do earn their place in the history of A. Lange & Söhne and Glashütte. How do you see Herr Lange’s role in the rebuilding process?

Walter Lange was absolutely instrumental in the re-founding of the company. He is the guiding light, the reference standard so to speak. Walter was the able partner of Blumlein and provides the historical grounding essential to building the brand.

Photos: courtesy of Peter Chong

In my previous post about the book about the Pour le Mérite Collection you can find more details about the different versions. To order a copy, you can sent an email to Peter Chong -> chongp@gmail.com

Lange und Söhne Saxonia Thin – a Future Classic

mono — Thu, 05 Apr 2012 12:14:27 +0000

Lange und Söhne Saxonia Thin – a Future Classic is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Last year A. Lange & Söhne restyled the Saxonia collection and introduced the all new Saxonia Thin. The thinnest Lange & Söhne ever, measuring just 5.9 mm in height. This year the pink gold Saxonia Thin gets a white gold sibling.

Classic, beautiful and typical Lange & Söhne style, however thin… While Lange & Söhne is well known for their robust movements like those in the Double Split and Datograph, an extra thin movement is something that is slightly out of the ordinary for this German manufacture.

The slim case measures 40 mm in diameter and just 5.9 mm in height. While it remains relatively classic proportions, the diameter of 40 mm gives the watch a certain presence on the wrist. The dial is very balanced, featuring nothing more than thin baton hour markers and a small dot next to it. Printed on the solid silver argenté dial is the name A. Lange & Söhne, the location, Glashütte I/SA, and ‘made in germany’ at the 6 o’clock position. The two sleek lancet-shaped hands indicate the hours and minutes.

The round three-part case has a polished tapered bezel, polished lugs and brush finished mid case. The case-back is partially polished and brushed with engraving around the sapphire crystal. Embossed on the crown is the A Lange & Söhne name.

Especially for the thinnest Lange & Söhne ever, they created a new movement, caliber L093.1. The movement has a diameter of 28 mm and is just 2.9 mm thick, or should I say thin. Lange & Söhne isn’t known for thin watches, but for extremely beautiful and robust movements, which are build to last. To accomplish their level of reliability, all new movements are subject to an entire range of endurance tests devised by the manufactory’s test laboratories. The new caliber L093.1 of course passed them.

The movement features like all Lange & Söhne movements, a superb level of finish. The German-silver three-quarter plate with Glashütte ribbing (a variation on Geneva stripes / Côte de Genève) as well as chamfered and polished edges. The gold chatons are secured with thermally blued screws and the wheels are sunray finished. The escapement bears the typical Lange & Söhne signature: the free-hand engraving on the balance cock.

The movement beats with a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour and has a power reserve of 72 hours.

In terms of reliability, robustness and beauty, Lange & Söhne created something outstanding with the new Saxonia Thin. It has the looks of a classic and if it lives up to the longevity we known Lange & Söhne for, than you (and the next generation) will enjoy the Saxonia Thin. With the ingredients (40 mm in diameter, classic and well balanced dial, thin but robust movement, 72 hours of power reserve) I think A. Lange & Söhne created a magnificent dress watch and a future classic!

For more information you can visit the A. Lange & Söhne website.

This article is written by Frank Geelen, executive editor of Monochrome Watches.

Lange und Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Apotheosis of the SIHH 2012

mono — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 20:52:46 +0000

Lange und Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar – Apotheosis of the SIHH 2012 is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Because of an incredibly busy schedule I didn’t have time to visit Lange und Söhne until the last day of the SIIH 2012. What I got to see wasn’t simply amazing, it was so much more than amazing. For me it was the apotheosis of the fair.

The new Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is a magnificent piece of horology, technically very complex and visually it shows the understated classic, elegance we know Lange und Söhne for. Do you see the resemblance with the Lange 1 Daymatic?

This is the first Lange und Söhne with a tourbillon that is not visible on the dial side, their first tourbillon with an automatic movement, their first tourbillon with a stop-mechanism and it also features an instantaneous perpetual calendar.

It has similar looks of the Lange 1 Daymatic, with the hour/minute register positioned on the right side of the dial, the day of the week indication on the left side and the big date on the upper left side. On the lower left side is the subsidiary seconds and the moon phase and at the 6 o’clock position is the leap year indicator. All around the dial is an extra ring to indicate the month.

So it does really have a lot in common with the looks of the Lange 1 Daymatic and the magnificent thing about this Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is that its dial remains calm and very legible, despite the extra complications. The off-centre configuration of the Lange 1 dial offers an basis and the perpetual calendar can be positioned outside the hour and minute register, so the readability of time is not compromised. I consider its design to be one of its complications and I think Lange und Söhne did extremely well.

Lange und Söhne choose to create the very first rotating peripheral month ring ever implemented in a wristwatch. The underside of the ring has recesses of different depths for the respective durations of each month and features an innovative sampling mechanism. This one-of-a-kind design has been registered for patent.

All displays of the perpetual calendar (the outsize date, the retrograde day, the month ring, the aperture leap year, and the moon-phase indication) switch instantaneously! The mechanism is designed such that it must only be advanced by one day on March 1st of the secular year 2100. The moon-phase only needs to be corrected by one day, every 122 years. All corrections to the calendar are easy to perform with recessed push pieces, placed in the side of the mid case.

Now let’s take a look at the other side…

The new automatic calibre L082.1 offers a high winding efficiency. Its heavy 21-carat gold central rotor, with the embossed A. Lange & Söhne signature, has a platinum centrifugal mass on the outer periphery of the rotor. This extra weight, which has a higher density than gold, gives extra momentum to the winding process. The maximum power reserve of 50 hours is already available after a very short time on the wrist.

I’m pleased with the choice to only show the tourbillon on the reverse side of the watch. Its balance wheel with eccentric poising weights, combined with the proprietary Lange balance spring, assures an extremely high degree of rate accuracy. The balance, inside the one-minute tourbillon, vibrates at a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour. However there’s more to this tourbillon! Lange und Söhne again choose to equip the tourbillon with a patented stop-seconds mechanism, meaning that once the crown is pulled out to set the time, the tourbillon stops. This way the watch can be set to one-second accuracy.

The movement features the typical Lange-style quality hallmarks such as hand-decorated parts, the free-hand engravings on the tourbillon and intermediate-wheel cocks, and the four gold chatons secured to the plate with blued screws. The upper part of the tourbillon cage is finished with black polish; on this tiny part this can cost up to five days of work!

The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is the most complicated member of the Lange 1 family. It is available in a pink gold or platinum case with a diameter of 41.9 millimeters. The platinum version is limited to 100 pieces.

You can get more information about the watch and its availability via the Lange und Söhne website or the official Facebook page.

It’s that time again – Vote for TimeZone Watch of the Year 2011

mono — Sun, 12 Feb 2012 18:53:25 +0000

It’s that time again – Vote for TimeZone Watch of the Year 2011 is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Yes it’s that time again, we can vote for the TimeZone Watch of the Year! Every member of watch forum TimeZone can vote for one of the six preselected finalists.

Last year the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire was elected as TimeZone Watch of the Year 2011. The line-up is mighty impressive again this year and we’re very curious to find out who will win. The finalist that receives the most votes by noon GMT on February 27, 2012 will be the 2011 TimeZone Watch of the Year.

On this page at TimeZone you can read about the finalists, so you can prepare yourself for voting. The A. Lange und Söhne Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour le Mérite is a magnificent piece of horology and so is the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. Less complicated but equally impressive and beautiful are the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Tribute to 1931 and the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle World Time, which was the first wrist watch displaying all timezones of the world. And there’s the Grönefeld One Hertz…

Although these are all watches that I would love to add to our personal collection, the whole idea of this election is to choose just one. For me that would be the one with the shortest name, the most intriguing complication, a magnificent way to execute that complication and the first wrist watch with stainless steel bridges that are finished to a superb level.

Visit this TimeZone page for all details about the finalists. Here you can vote, at least if you’re a member of TimeZone.

Pre SIHH 2012 – The new Lange und Söhne Datograph Auf/Ab

mono — Tue, 20 Dec 2011 08:00:40 +0000

Pre SIHH 2012 – The new Lange und Söhne Datograph Auf/Ab is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Lange und Söhne call it the new benchmark in chronograph design and we think they are absolutely right. The new Datograph Auf/Ab sets the bar at a new level and the improvements go beyond adding a power reserve indicator.

According to many collectors the normal Datograph was already one of the most desirable chronographs ever made, only surpassed by it’s bigger brother the Lange und Söhne Double Split. Will the new Datograph Auf/Ab bring a change in that hierarchy?

Let’s look at what’s been changed/improved.

First of all the case size has increased from 39 mm to 41 mm. Something that might seem like ‘almost nothing’ is a big change for Lange und Söhne because they usually keep diameters at a moderate, almost old fashioned, size of less than 40 mm. While we at Monochrome prefer such ideas about the diameter of a watch, many watch aficionados usually don’t. I say ‘usually’ because I’ve never heard any complaints about the diameter of the Datograph (or Lange 1), not even from the most hardcore Panerai fan. It looks like Lange und Söhne is the exception. Still I believe most collectors won’t mind that Lange und Söhne decided to increase the diameter by 2 millimeter.

Another change, which is related to the increased diameter, is the slightly larger date aperture. Lange und Söhne wanted to keep the proportions the same as on the Datograph, so they increased the date aperture with 4%. That’s what I call attention for detail!

On the dial we can see another change, which is the absence of the Roman numerals II, VI, and X. Since the ‘Saxonia family’ got a small make-over last year, the new stick markers on the dial of the Datograph Auf/Ab is now coherent with the rest of the family.

The change that gave the new Datograph its name is the power reserve indicator, which might refer to the old 1815 Auf/Ab. The power reserve indicator is positioned at 6 o’clock and is a very pleasant function on a manually wound watch. Not visible on the dial, yet another improvement, is that the Datograph Auf/Ab now has 60 hours of autonomy when fully wound. This means an increased power reserve of 24 extra hours, compared to the normal Datograph. Only when the hand enters the red zone on the third day will it be necessary to supply the movement with new energy. The 24 extra power-reserve hours were achieved mainly with a larger mainspring barrel.

When it was first presented in 1999, the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph attracted attention for its classic column-wheel movement with a precisely jumping minute counter and flyback function. This jumping minute counter makes it easy to read the elapsed time, when the chronograph is stopped.

This mechanism was used in earlier times, especially in pocket watches and high-quality wristwatches. Lange und Söhne has improved this mechanism and was granted a patent for an adjustable operating lever. The video below shows how it works.

The Datograph Auf/Ab aso features a Flyback function, which allows the chronograph to be instantaneously reset to zero during an ongoing measurement, simply by pressing a pusher. Originating from the early days of aviation, this mechanism makes it possible to perform instantly consecutive time measurements by combining three steps – stop, reset, restart – into one: one single push of a button will stop and reset the Datograph Auf/Ab in the middle of an ongoing time measurement. When the button is released, a new time measurement is initiated immediately.

Technically it’s all mighty impressive! Actually like we are used to from this beautiful German watch manufacture. But the question whether the new Datograph Auf/Ab will distrub the reign of the Double Split, might boil down to how collectors value the design of the movement.

The movement, caliber L951.6, which can be seen trough the sapphire case back, has a classical frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour. This assures optimised rate values. It is powered by a balance spring, also developed and crafted on site by Lange. The manually wound movement is crafted to the Lange quality standards and is decorated and assembled by hand. The plates and bridges are made of untreated German silver and, typical for Lange und Söhne, the balance cock is engraved by hand.

Also beautifully visible is the column wheel that controls the chronograph functions, four screwed gold chatons and the levers of the flyback function. A true visual treat!

Lange manufacture calibre L951.6,

Movement parts: 451
Jewels: 46
Screwed gold chatons: 4
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillation system: Shock-resistant balance with eccentric poising weights; superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour, precision beat adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring
Power reserve: 60 hours when fully wound
Functions: Time indicated in hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds with stop seconds; flyback chronograph with precisely jumping; power-reserve indicator; outsize date

Operating elements: Crown for winding the watch and setting the time, two pushers for operating the chronograph, one pusher for rapid correction of the outsize date

Case dimensions: Diameter: 41.0 millimetres; height: 13.1 millimetres

Movement dimensions: Diameter: 30.6 millimetres; height: 7.9 millimetres

Case: Platinum

Dial: Solid silver, black

Hands: Rhodiumed gold, steel

For more information, visit the Lange und Söhne website or their official Facebook page.

Weekly Watch Photo – Lange und Söhne Double Split on IWC-Santoni strap

mono — Sun, 18 Sep 2011 14:49:06 +0000

Weekly Watch Photo – Lange und Söhne Double Split on IWC-Santoni strap is a post from: Monochrome.nl

When IWC launched the new Portofino Hand-Wound 8-days, they did something ingenious. This model comes on a hand-made strap by the famous shoe manufactorer Santoni and these straps became a much discussed topic on the internet.

Luckily the owner of the Double Split also has very good photographic skills and that’s why this wonderful combination, resulting in a beautiful photo, made it to be Monochrome’s Weekly Watch Photo. Below you’ll find more of his photos showing this drop dead gorgeous combination.

Changing straps is one of the things we from Monochrome love. It’s a way to enjoy your watch in a new way, match it with specific shoes or simply to get another look. Earlier we wrote about changing straps on our IWC 3717 Pilot Chronograph and TAG Heuer Monaco.

The photos we show you are made by Edwin, co-moderator of the A. Lange und Söhne forum at Timezone. He was so kind to let me share these photos showing the Santoni straps on his new Lange und Söhne Double Split. The Double Split has featured before as Monochrome’s Weekly Watch Photo, because of it’s incomparable movement. Today however, we’re not paying attention to the most beautiful chronograph caliber, but to the nice dial and combination with the IWC/Santoni strap.

Edwin got himself these two IWC/Santoni straps. Magnificent straps, hand-made and colored by like the Santoni shoes. Fratellowatches made a nice report on that.

A normal IWC alligator strap costs € 231 Euro (before tax) and the price of the new IWC/Santoni straps is € 315 Euro (also before tax). Buyers from within the EU pay € 375 Euro (including tax) for the IWC/Santoni strap. Not too bad for such a nice strap

One last photo, a wristshot, to show this killer combination…

You can order these wonderful straps at our friends: IWC Santoni strap at the Ace Jewelers eBoutique. Please mention Monochrome when you order a strap and share the picture, when you mount it on your watch!

The Auction Hammer – The start of a new season

Martin Green — Sun, 11 Sep 2011 12:34:22 +0000

The Auction Hammer – The start of a new season is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Auction seasons has begun again after a brief summer recess. On September 14 Antiquorum auctions off 319 items in their New York auction. While going through their catalogue one cannot do anything else then to be surprised and wonder….for a wide variety of reasons.

Take for example lot 13. This features an IWC Aquatimer 2000 (ref. 3568) that was originally sold on May 20^th 2011… One wonders how a watch that is less than 6 months old can be on auction so soon? Since Antiquorum rates the watch as ‘very good’ one can expect that it is slightly worn. With an estimate off $2,000 – $3,000 USD this might be a nice opportunity to get this very young divers watch out of Schaffhausen for a sharp price.

Talking about estimates, sometimes utterly astonishment is an understatement when it comes to this topic. Lot 260 features a 2002 Breitling Navitimer 92 in 18k yellow gold. It’s estimate? $1,500 – $2,000 USD! Even when you don’t like Breitling’s you’ve got to respect the Navitimer and especially in 18K yellow gold is this still a very precious wristwatch. Its current estimate is even lower then what Breitling charges for the 18K folding clasp that comes with this Navitimer. That might make this Navitimer an interesting purchase for a collector of aviation watches. Oh, and in case somebody outbids you, do not worry lot 263 is an almost identical Navitimer, also in 18K yellow gold, but now from 2004. Estimate this time is between $1,500 and $2,500 USD.

We are staying in the air with lot 125, which is an original pilot’s watch made by Stowa for the German Luftwaffe (air force) in 1940. Stowa was one of the five brands that officially supplied the German pilot’s with suitable watches. The others are Wempe, Laco, Lange & Sohne and IWC. Today Stowa (that is owned by independent watchmaker Jörg Schauer) is still in business and still sells new pilot’s watches at quite an attractive price level. These new watches can be a nice option when you want a pilot’s watch that is really rooted in history without breaking the bank for one of the original. With an estimate between $2,000 and $3,000 USD this Stowa is also rather affordable by itself. Wear ability is a whole other question because not many people have a wrist that can comfortably accommodate a 55mm diameter, but then again the pilots wore this watch around their leg.

Interesting for collectors of this type of military watches is that lot 134 and lot 135 feature the German Luftwaffe watches which were made by Laco-Durowe and have an estimate between $3,000 and $5,000 USD. It seems that the Luftwaffe always flew in pairs because lot 136 and lot 137 feature the watches Lange & Sohne made for them. Estimate for those is between $5,000 USD and $7,000 USD.

But all these watches are put to shame by the estimate that is put on the IWC-version of the Luftwaffe watch, for sale as lot 138. This watch was delivered in 1940 and has an estimate of a stunning $40,000 to $50,000 USD. It’s apparently clear who has the biggest pilot!

Chronographs are popular complications that get even more exciting when they are of the Foudroyante kind. But it can get even more exciting as Graham displays in lot 157. This classical styled watch displays its unique feature at a sub-dial at 9 o’clock. Here a small hand rushes around its dial in 8 steps per second, indicating the measured time up till 1/8th of a second. To highlight this rare complication the sapphire crystal is equipped with a large cyclops that covers the entire sub-dial. Some might recognize this complication from a limited edition Panerai. The PAM 246 has the same complication as this Graham, housed in their famous Radiomir-case. For Ferrari-enthusiasts Panerai also offers this movement in their Ferrari collection, here under reference FER00025. This exquisite Graham has an estimate of $4,000 – $6,000 USD, making it a possible financially attractive alternative for the two watches mentioned earlier.

Sometimes you ask yourself until what extend money talks when it comes to auctions. Lot 311 features a not unattractive Patek Philippe ref. 2449 that is rated ‘Very good’ by Antiquorum experts. How it ever got that rating is a mystery since the dial is heavily oxidized, the hands are partially replaced and the movement in scratched. Worth restoring? Definitely, but apparently we do have a different interpretation of ‘very good’ then Antiquorum. When you are interested in a restoration project you might want to consider biding on this Patek. Its estimate is $5,000 and $6,000 USD.

Other watches might be rare, but then it can still be difficult to find a buyer for them, even when they are made by Patek Philippe. Lot 81, an Ellipse (ref. 3875) in 18K yellow gold, with a very attractive integrated bracelet doesn’t sound bad. A factory set diamond bezel and hour indexes might only add to the appeal for some, even though this Ellipse is equipped with the less desirable quartz movement. The catch is however in the custom made dial. The brown tone is something one must like, but since it’s (former) owner also had his initials printed in gold on the dial it limits the potentials buyers to those who have the initials J.A.A. (or want to pay a premium when they sent the watch to Patek for service to get a replacement dial). Estimate? Between $8,000 – $10,000 USD.

Slowly but surely watch collectors and connoisseurs are rediscovering watches with a dead-beat seconds complication. Of course magnificent watches like the Habring2 Chezard 116, F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain and Grönefeld One Hertz greatly help to this cause. Antiquorum also auctions off another contender in this field as lot 132 . In 2001 Panerai introduced a limited edition of 160 watches that feature this rare complication. The Radiomir Independent, also known as PAM 80, has a Chezard caliber 7400 movement. Nice touch is that Panerai actually put a little Cyclops on the glass back to highlight the part of the gear train that is responsible for the one second increments of the seconds hand. A 42mm white gold Radiomir case houses this movement and Panerai opted for a deep blue dial for this model. It’s estimate is $10,000 – $15,000 USD.

All together Antiquorum seems to start of the auction season with something that comes to mind regarding weddings; something old, something new, something borrowed and something blue! Antiquorum auctions the mentioned lots on Wednesday 14^th of September in New York.

Weekly Watch Photo – Lange und Söhne 1815

mono — Sun, 04 Sep 2011 18:14:30 +0000

Weekly Watch Photo – Lange und Söhne 1815 is a post from: Monochrome.nl

At Monochrome we really enjoy beautiful photographed watches and many of these pictures are made by watch collectors who are also passionate about photography. Today it’s Jocke’s A. Lange und Söhne 1815.

More and more watch aficionados with a passion for photography share gorgeous photos they shot from they collection. Just think of the Watch Photographer, Martin Wilmsen, and Peter Chong who are all doing an amazing job! Somehow the real watch aficionados know how and what parts/angles of a watch to show on a photo. These are the photos that really appeal to other watch enthusiasts.

Jocke was one of the first watch aficionados making the most gorgeous photos of his watch collection. Lately he made photos of his A. Lange und Söhne 1815. Jocke shows the beautiful contrast between the solid silver (argenté) dial and the blued steel hands, placed on top of a jeans to enhance the contrast even more.

The photos below show the for Lange und Söhne so typical three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver. There are five screwed gold chatons, which are held in place by blued screws. The three-quarter plate is finished with the regular Glashütte ribbing.

The one-quarter of the movement that isn’t covered by the plate, shows the escapement with swan-neck regulator. The balance is held in place by the hand-engraved balance cock, that is decorated using free-hand techniques and this makes each 1815 a one-of-a-kind. Another lovely detail is the hand beveled edge of the three-quarter plate and the classic screw balance that beats with a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour.

The photo shows the A. Lange und Söhne 1815 in white gold, which measures 40 mm in diameter and is 8.9 mm thick. I’d say a perfect dress watch! The price of the A. Lange und Söhne 1815 is around $20k USD.

More of Jocke’s photos can be admired on his Watch Wallpaper website. Information about the Lange und Söhne 1815 and other models, can be found at the A. Lange und Söhne Website.

Weekly Watch Photo – Lange und Söhne Zeitwerk for Kidz Horizon

mono — Sun, 28 Aug 2011 08:59:44 +0000

Weekly Watch Photo – Lange und Söhne Zeitwerk for Kidz Horizon is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Lange und Söhne donated a unique version of the Lange Zeitwerk to the Kidz Horizon charity auction and Peter Chong made the press photos. As always gorgeous photos of a gorgeous watch.

At Monochrome we love beautiful timepieces and great photos showing the beauty of them. In this particular case the gorgeous movement of the Lange Zeitwerk is visible and so is the superb finishing qualities of Lange und Söhne. Lange und Söhne first released the Lange Zeitwerk in 2009 and it has become one of the most recognizable timepieces released in the past 10 years. Lange’s new Zeitwerk Striking Time aslo proves this.

This unique version is made in white gold and comes with a grey dial. A beautiful combination we think. The normal retail price of the white gold version is around $ 70,000 USD. This unique piece, with SGP 2011 engraved in the case back, raised more than $ 114,000 USD.

A few months ago Peter Chong released a book about the A.Lange und Söhne Pour le Merite Collection. He not only has a passion for Lange und Söhne watches, but also for high resolution photography. Something he shares through his blog and on the Lange und Söhne forum at Timezone.Lange und Söhne asked him to make the press photos for this unique Lange Zeitwerk.

More photos can be admired at Peter Chong’s blog.

Peter Chong’s book about the Lange and Söhne Pour le Mérite Collection

mono — Wed, 13 Jul 2011 08:12:53 +0000

Peter Chong’s book about the Lange and Söhne Pour le Mérite Collection is a post from: Monochrome.nl

For fans of A. Lange & Söhne watches and the Pour le Mérite Collection in particular, there is a new bible. Peter Chong made a book about the Pour le Mérite Collection, filled with the most gorgeous photos and explaining much about the brand’s history and technical highlights.

Peter Chong’s photos have already been selected for the Monochrome Weekly Watch Photo and other posts and that’s for a good reason. Peter is a specialist in high resolution photography and is a absolute expert on watches from independent watchmakers and of course A. Lange & Söhne. He frequently posts the most gorgeous watch photos on his blog.

He is the founding moderator for the Lange forum at Timezone.com, an Internet community forum which is not only the first watch discussion forum in the world but also the largest today.

Peter founded the Lange Owners Group or LOG, a global “club” exclusively for Lange owners, as its name implies which the brand endorses. There are currently more than 1,000 like-minded members who are united by their love for A. Lange & Söhne and fine watchmaking. The group holds a meeting at least once a year, generally during the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva while a pilgrimage to Lange Mecca in Glashütte is organised once every two years.

The book provides an insider look at A. Lange & Söhne: its early formative years, the special line of watches which are classified as “Pour le Mérite” and detailed technical descriptions of the watches, including the first documentation of the disassembly of a high end watch equipped with a tourbillon with fusée-and-chain.

Technical and craftsmanship is explored in detail. Within, a full description of how the tourbillon and fusée-and chain works. A whole section is devoted on Lange chronographs and why they are unique. Another section discusses the design language used in the watches.

An entire chapter in the book is dedicated to telling the stories of the enthusiasts who love the watches and willingly share this love with others. The fascinating stories of these connoisseurs are told in their own words. As an accomplished photographer, the author took great pains to make all the photographs which are in the book. Many of these are reproduced as full bleed A2 size, and others in A3 sized photographs, showing the beautiful details and magnificent finishing of the watches.

There will be four different editions of the book, of which 200 copies will be for owners of the original Tourbillon Pour le Mérite. The numbers will be limited to a total of 1,110 copies.

The “Pour le Mérite” A. Lange & Söhne Collection has a limited print run of 1,110 copies and is presented in 4 different editions:

Tranche A Deluxe Edition: This is made up of 200 copies which are not for sale. These will be presented to the current registered owners of the original TOURBILLON “Pour le Mérite” Ref. 701 and Ref. 751 with compliments of Lange Uhren. Each book will bear serial numbers matching those of the owner’s watches.
Tranche B Deluxe Edition: Only 8 copies, all of which are not for sale and each uniquely classified by one of the first eight letters of the alphabet (A to H), are reserved for the Publisher’s private collection. Up to 7 copies will be donated to selected charitable auctions.
Tranche C Deluxe Edition: A total of 201 Deluxe Edition copies, each of which is individually numbered, are available for public sale in this category.
Tranche D Regular Edition: A total of 701 Regular Edition copies are available for public sale in this category.

The price for the regular edition will be S$680, which equivalents $555 US or roughly €400 Euro. When compared to the Modani books, which costs up to €960 Euro, the price is definitely not too steep. Besides that, this is the first book about the A Lange & Söhne Collection and contains much information that was never published before. And of course… many magnificent photos. The book can be ordered directly via this form.

Let me finish this post with a photo made by Edwin, Peter’s co-moderator of the Timezone Lange und Söhne forum. It shows Edwin’s Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

The book can be ordered directly via this form. More information and photos of the printing of the book can be viewed at Peter’s blog.