The Auction Hammer – The start of a new season is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Auction seasons has begun again after a brief summer recess. On September 14 Antiquorum auctions off 319 items in their New York auction. While going through their catalogue one cannot do anything else then to be surprised and wonder….for a wide variety of reasons.

Take for example lot 13. This features an IWC Aquatimer 2000 (ref. 3568) that was originally sold on May 20^th 2011… One wonders how a watch that is less than 6 months old can be on auction so soon? Since Antiquorum rates the watch as ‘very good’ one can expect that it is slightly worn. With an estimate off  $2,000 – $3,000 USD this might be a nice opportunity to get this very young divers watch out of Schaffhausen for a sharp price.

Talking about estimates, sometimes utterly astonishment is an understatement when it comes to this topic. Lot 260 features a 2002 Breitling Navitimer 92 in 18k yellow gold. It’s estimate? $1,500 – $2,000 USD! Even when you don’t like Breitling’s you’ve got to respect the Navitimer and especially in 18K yellow gold is this still a very precious wristwatch. Its current estimate is even lower then what Breitling charges for the 18K folding clasp that comes with this Navitimer. That might make this Navitimer an interesting purchase for a collector of aviation watches. Oh, and in case somebody outbids you, do not worry lot 263 is an almost identical Navitimer, also in 18K yellow gold, but now from 2004. Estimate this time is between $1,500 and $2,500 USD.

We are staying in the air with lot 125, which is an original pilot’s watch made by Stowa for the German Luftwaffe (air force) in 1940. Stowa was one of the five brands that officially supplied the German pilot’s with suitable watches. The others are Wempe, Laco, Lange & Sohne and IWC. Today Stowa (that is owned by independent watchmaker Jörg Schauer) is still in business and still sells new pilot’s watches at quite an attractive price level. These new watches can be a nice option when you want a pilot’s watch that is really rooted in history without breaking the bank for one of the original. With an estimate between $2,000 and $3,000 USD this Stowa is also rather affordable by itself. Wear ability is a whole other question because not many people have a wrist that can comfortably accommodate a 55mm diameter, but then again the pilots wore this watch around their leg.

Interesting for collectors of this type of military watches is that lot 134 and lot 135  feature the German Luftwaffe watches which were made by Laco-Durowe and have an estimate between $3,000 and $5,000 USD. It seems that the Luftwaffe always flew in pairs because lot 136 and lot 137 feature the watches Lange & Sohne made for them. Estimate for those is between $5,000 USD and $7,000 USD.

But all these watches are put to shame by the estimate that is put on the IWC-version of the Luftwaffe watch, for sale as lot 138. This watch was delivered in 1940 and has an estimate of a stunning $40,000 to $50,000 USD. It’s apparently clear who has the biggest pilot!

Chronographs are popular complications that get even more exciting when they are of the Foudroyante kind. But it can get even more exciting as Graham displays in lot 157. This classical styled watch displays its unique feature at a sub-dial at 9 o’clock. Here a small hand rushes around its dial in 8 steps per second, indicating the measured time up till 1/8th of a second. To highlight this rare complication the sapphire crystal is equipped with a large cyclops that covers the entire sub-dial. Some might recognize this complication from a limited edition Panerai. The PAM 246 has the same complication as this Graham, housed in their famous Radiomir-case. For Ferrari-enthusiasts Panerai also offers this movement in their Ferrari collection, here under reference FER00025. This exquisite Graham has an estimate of $4,000 – $6,000 USD, making it a possible financially attractive alternative for the two watches mentioned earlier.

Sometimes you ask yourself until what extend money talks when it comes to auctions. Lot 311 features a not unattractive Patek Philippe ref. 2449 that is rated ‘Very good’ by Antiquorum experts. How it ever got that rating is a mystery since the dial is heavily oxidized, the hands are partially replaced and the movement in scratched. Worth restoring? Definitely, but apparently we do have a different interpretation of ‘very good’ then Antiquorum. When you are interested in a restoration project you might want to consider biding on this Patek. Its estimate is $5,000 and $6,000 USD.

Other watches might be rare, but then it can still be difficult to find a buyer for them, even when they are made by Patek Philippe. Lot 81, an Ellipse (ref. 3875) in 18K yellow gold, with a very attractive integrated bracelet doesn’t sound bad. A factory set diamond bezel and hour indexes might only add to the appeal for some, even though this Ellipse is equipped with the less desirable quartz movement. The catch is however in the custom made dial. The brown tone is something one must like, but since it’s (former) owner also had his initials printed in gold on the dial it limits the potentials buyers to those who have the initials J.A.A. (or want to pay a premium when they sent the watch to Patek for service to get a replacement dial). Estimate? Between $8,000 – $10,000 USD.

Slowly but surely watch collectors and connoisseurs are rediscovering watches with a dead-beat seconds complication. Of course magnificent watches like the Habring2  Chezard 116, F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain and Grönefeld One Hertz greatly help to this cause. Antiquorum also auctions off another contender in this field as lot 132 . In 2001 Panerai introduced a limited edition of 160 watches that feature this rare complication. The Radiomir Independent, also known as PAM 80, has a Chezard caliber 7400 movement. Nice touch is that Panerai actually put a little Cyclops on the glass back to highlight the part of the gear train that is responsible for the one second increments of the seconds hand. A 42mm white gold Radiomir case houses this movement and Panerai opted for a deep blue dial for this model. It’s estimate is $10,000 – $15,000 USD.

All together Antiquorum seems to start of the auction season with something that comes to mind regarding weddings; something old, something new, something borrowed and something blue! Antiquorum auctions the mentioned lots on Wednesday 14^th of September in New York.

Related posts:

1. The Auction Hammer – Patek Philippe Millennium ref.5032J
2. The Auction Hammer – The Golden Understatement
3. The Auction Hammer – Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Art Deco

Beautiful Breitling, the Transocean Chronograph is a post from: Monochrome.nl

I know, i hardly write about Breitling. After seeing a few posts on Hodinkee and The Prodigal Guide I realized this new Breitling looks absolutely stunning.

Breitling is on a roll with limited editions using their in-house calibre 01. My friend Kyle Stults of Perpetuelle.com wrote about all the limited editions using Calibre 01, starting with the Breitling Navitimer Calibre 01. After seeing the Talking Hands video on The Prodigal Guide and seeing some live photos at Hodinkee I just need to say I really like this Breitling.

The black dial and white registers on the Transocean Chronograph look absolutely stunning and has this all over vintage charm. With a diameter of 43mm is has a more contemporary size. This steel version (photo above) of the Transocean is limited to 2000 pieces and there is also a rose gold version, limited to 200 pieces.

Although Breitling was involved in developing the first automatic chronograph, together with Heuer, Buren and Dubois-Depraz, this is their first in-house movement. More than 40 years after this cooperation they launched Caliber 01. If you’re keep on seeing the movement, you need to get one of the limited editions, because only these will feature the see through case back revealing caliber 01.

Breitling’s calibre 01 has been used in a limited edition Navitimer and Chronomat, both also featuring a see through case back, exposing the in-house caliber. Breitling caliber 01 has tri-compax registers (3-6-9 position) and a date between the 4 and 5 o’clock position. It offers 70 hours of power reserve and something chronograph aficionados will be exited about, a column wheel chronograph control.

Now on to the video filmed by our friends of The Prodigal Guide…

Not 100% sure about pricing, but it seems the stainless steel version will be priced at $6,700 and no word on the rose gold pricing.

More information can be found at the Breitling website. There are several Facebook pages about Breitling, however it looks like none of them is the official Breitling FB page.

Related posts:

1. It was 40 years ago… the first automatic chronograph
2. The new Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph with in-house calibre 9300
3. Parmigiani Tonda Transforma Chronograph

Categorizing Independent Watchmakers is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Independent watchmakers are in many ways different from other watch companies. But in the end they all make wristwatches we enjoy wearing and collecting.

Watch lovers who frequent watchforums like Horomundi, The PuristS Pro, Timezone and Watchuseek may have seen or read something about independent watchmaking. But for most of them (you?) the independent watchmakers might still be unknown. Let’s be real, it’s already hard to keep track of all existing big name brands and their watches. Let alone some small independent watchmakers whos watches are in a special section for independent watchmaking and whos names don’t sound familiar.

Independent watchmakers don’t have an advertising budget  like Breitling or Rolex….

Independent watchmakers do make very beautiful and interesting watches… and are far more exclusive than the well known brands. To help you in finding your way to these watchmakers (and their watches) a Dutch wristwatch website categorized most independent watchmakers into three categories.

Kari Voutilainen's Observatoire with classic looks

Compiling this list and categorizing the watchmakers, was a result of a discussion going on in the Passion for Watches LinkedIn group about ‘ultra haute horlogery’. The Dutch website Horlogenieuws has compiled a list with Independent watchmakers and categorized them as ‘Extravagant’, ‘Intermediate’ or ‘Classic’. The list below is courtesy of Horlogenieuws.nl

Extravagant:

• Andreas Strehler – www.astrehler.ch
• Blu – www.blu.ch
• Cabestan – www.cabestan.ch
• DeGrisogono – www.degrisogono.com
• DeWitt – www.dewitt.ch
• Franc Villa – www.francvila.com
• Gruebel Forsey – www.greubelforsey.com
• HD3 – www.hd3complication.com
• Harry Winston – www.harrywinston.com
• Hautlence – www.hautlence.com
• Jean Dunand – www.jeandunand.com
• Ladoire – www.ladoire.ch
• Maitres du Temps – www.maitresdutemps.com
• MB&F – www.mbandf.com
• MCT – www.mctwatches.com
• Richard Mille – www.richardmille.com
• Urwerk – www.urwerk.com
• Vianney Halter – www.vianney-halter.com

Intermediate:

• Antoine Preziuso – www.antoine-preziuso.com
• Beat Haldimann – www.haldimann-horology.ch
• Cvstos – www.cvstos.ch
• De Bethune – www.debethune.ch
• Grönefeld – www.gronefeld.nl
• Ludwig Öchslin – www.ochsundjunior.ch
• McGonigle – www.mcgonigle.ie
• Parmigiani Fleurier – www.parmigiani.ch
• Pierre Kunz – www.pierrekunzgeneve.com
• Roger Dubuis – www.rogerdubuis.com
• Sarpaneva – www.sarpanevawatches.com
• Thomas Prescher – www.prescher.ch

Classic:

• Christiaan v.d. Klaauw – www.klaauwwatches.nl
• Montres Delaloye – www.montresdelaloye.ch
• F.P. Journe – www.fpjourne.com
• H. Moser & Cie. – www.h-moser.com
• Kari Voutilainen – www.voutilainen.ch
• Lang & Heyne – www.lang-und-heyne.de
• Martin Braun – www.martin-braun.com
• Paul Gerber – www.gerber-uhren.ch
• Philippe Dufour – www.philippedufour.fr
• Roger W. Smith – www.rwsmithwatches.co.uk
• Romain Gauthier – www.montres-rg.com
• Speake-Marin – www.speake-marin.com
• Svend Andersen – www.andersen-geneve.ch
• Urban Jürgensen – www.urbanjuergensen.com
• Volker Vyskocil – www.vyskocil.de

Vianney Halter's Antiqua with more extravagant looks

Another excellent soucre to get more information is the website Tempered Online.  Watch connaisseur Curtis Thomson has put together information and photos of several independent watchmakers. There’s even a forum dedicated to independent watchmaking where you can share your passion or ask your questions.

Related posts:

1. Dutch watch magazine writes about Independent Watchmakers
2. Visiting independent watchmakers
3. Increased interest in independent watchmakers?

Zenith El Primero – 40 years is a post from: Monochrome.nl

I recently blogged about the world’s first automatic chronograph, caliber 11, mdevelopped by Heuer, Breitling, Buren en Dubois-Depraz. Not much later Zenith launched their first automatic chronograph, the famous El Primero. This means that the Zenith also celebrates the 40th of the El Primero. To celebrate this Zenith comes with 5 Anniversary models.

Caliber 3019 - the first El Primero

The El Primero was developed in 1969 and rapidly became a standard of reference among automatic movements. The El Primero is still considered by many to be the best automatic chronograph. The first was a caliber 3019 column wheel chronograph with 31 jewels, beating at 36,000 beat per hour, it capable of measuring short time intervals to 1/10th second.

The El Primero with it’s precision enables it to succeed in passing the tests of the COSC (Swiss Official Control of Chronometers). The chronograph function can be operated with two push-buttons and it features an instantaneous date-change mechanism. It has a power reserve of more than 50 hours and this  movement can be fitted with other complications, like a date-day-month indicator, a moonphase and a fly-back.

Although i love the heritage of Zenith’s El Primero movement i’m not that crazy about the more recent design Zenith’s watches featuring this beautiful and admirable automatic chronograph. I think these Anniversary models proof my opinion about the recent design   Take a look at two of the Anniversary models Zenith released celebrate the 40th birthday of their world famous chronograph.

For more news about pre Basel releases check Perpetuelle.com

Zenith Class Anniversary

Zenith Port Royal Anniversary

Related posts:

1. It was 40 years ago… the first automatic chronograph
2. (TAG) Heuer Monaco – plexi is sexy
3. TAG Heuer Autavia Re-issue

It was 40 years ago… the first automatic chronograph is a post from: Monochrome.nl

40th Anniversary of the first Automatic Chronograph

40 Years ago, on march 3 1969, the first automatic chronograph movement was introduced. This movement, called Chronomatic, was developed by a joint venture of Heuer, Breitling, Buren and Dubois-Depraz. The Chronomatic was used by Heuer, Breitling and Buren under the name of caliber 11.

Cover of Swiss Watch and Juwelry Journal

Buren patented a micro-rotor winding system, that was called planetary rotor, in 1954.It took them untill 1957 before it saw production and later, in 1962, the design was refined into calicer 1280. The new caliber 1280 had a slightly larger swinging mass than the earlier caliber and the swinging mass now swung over the center of the movement. This caliber, also called Intramatic, won the Prix D’Honneur at the 1964 Swiss National Exposition in Lausanne. A year later the micro-rotor was further refined into caliver 1320, 1321 and 1322.

Heuer, Breitling-Leonidas, Dubois-Depraz and Buren modified the Intramatic into the world’s first automatic chronograph, the Chronomatic. The base movement with micro-rotor features the 8510 chronograph module by Dubois-Depraz, that was attached to the backside of the movement hiding the micro-rotor entirely.

Brands using the chronomatic - automatic chronograph

The caliber 11 automatic chronograph was used by the brands who developed it in some of the most famous wristwatches ever created. Just think of the Heuer Monaco, Heuer Autavia and Breitling Chronomatic. TAG Heuer and Breitling both have released re-issues of these ground breaking automatic wristwatches chronographs. Last week i blogged about a few of the new releases of TAG Heuer, including a limited edition Monaco Original Re-edition, using a caliber 12. One of the remarkeble features of the calibers based on the Chronomatic, is the crown on the left side of the case and the pushers to operate the chronograph are positioned on the left side.

vintage ad for Heuer automatic chronographs

Not only the caliber 11 Chronomatic celebrates it’s 40th birthday, but also the release of the Heuer Monaco is 40 years ago. The old Heuer advertisement is for the automatic chronograph featured in the Heuer Autavia and Heuer Monaco. Here’s a photo of my own Heuer Autavia 11630 with decompression bezel. This Autavia features a further refined movement, called caliber 12.

Heuer Autavia 11630 decompression bezel

You can read more about the Heuer Autavia at OnTheDash, a website dedicated to vintage Heuer Chronoraphs. At OnTheDash you can also download a full copy of the 2nd edition of the 1969 Swiss Watch and Juwelry Journal, reporting about the release of the first automatic chronograph. I can also recommend to read Project 99 – the race to develop the wolrd’s first automatic chronograph, a very intersting article by Jeffrey M. Stein.

Related posts:

1. Calibre 11 – Vintage Heuer watches
2. Zenith El Primero – 40 years
3. Beautiful Breitling, the Transocean Chronograph

SIHH is over… now let’s move one to Basel is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Well the title says it all….The Salon International Haute Horlogery has hardly ended and the first Baselworld pre releases are already out.

The Salon International Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) is over and it seems there is almost no time to talk and discuss all new releases from the Richemont brands. Press releases of new creations that will be shown at Baselwolrd 2009 are already pooring in! At Perpetuelle.com the Basel 2009 section is already full with new releases. Judging from a distance i think it looks very promising this year! Here are a few that really caught my attention…

Maurice LaCroix comes with a skelletonished chronograph with the famous ML106 column-wheel movement. Besides the looks, which are absolutely stunning this manual wind colum-wheel chronograph offers a power reserve of 42 hours. The chronograph measures time to 1/5th of a second!

Maurice LaCroix - Skelletonized Chronograph

Maurice LaCroix’s Masterpiece line is beautiful line that offers technological highlights as well as a combination of classic and very modern almost industrial design. The skeleton dial of this Chronographe Squelette reveals all the workings of the movement, a delicate labyrinth in which the gear-trains have been refined to a bare minimum. The classic caliber lives up to the most modern expectations and even combines the looks of retro and industrial modernism. This all comes in a 45mm brushed steel case with slightly domes sapphire crystal with anti reflection coating on both sides. A model that clearly belongs in this century.

Maurice LaCroix - ML106 column wheel chronograph

Another brand that released a watch that immediately caught my attention is Breitling. I must admit that usually i’m no Breitling-guy but this one totally does it for me. The Breilting Navitimer 125th Anniversary. The first Navitimer was released in 1952 and has grown to become one of the most well known and beloved classics among wristwatches.

Breitling Navitimer 125th Anniversary

The Navitimer 125th Anniversary has an automatic calibre 26 engine, equipped with 38 rubies and spins with 28,800 vibrations per hour. Of course, like all automatic Breitling calibers, this caliber 26 is COSC-certified.

From now on, i will never start a topic about Breitling with stating i’m no Breitling-guy. Let’s end the apologies for liking a Breitling… they make awesome watches and the proof is here!

Breitling Navitimer 125th Anniversary

Thanx to Perpetuelle.com for all photos and information.

Related posts:

1. Beautiful Breitling, the Transocean Chronograph
2. SIHH update – Girard Perregaux
3. SIHH vs. Baselworld