I’m happy to see the new Villeret Moon Phase or Villeret Phase de Lune Demi-Savonnette as it’s called in French. It has the looks for which i have always liked Blancpain… slim, stylish, classic and timeless design. This is completely different from last year’s announcement to eliminate the beautiful Léman collection and replace it with the ‘loud’ L-Evolution collection.

The Villeret Moon Phase is the first of the Villeret collection to be unveiled. Although the name is Villeret Moon Phase, this classic beauty features a complete calendar with moon-phase. The indicators for day and date do not jump instantly, however the month indicator does.

Blancpain choose to use a so-called half-hunter case. This means the case-back has a lid that can be opened in order to see the movement. A full hunter case also has a lid that should be opened in order to see the time. The 18kt rose gold case has a diameter of 40mm and has a sapphire crystal on both sides.

The calendar mechanism is new and is a secure calendar mechanism with correctors under the lugs! These under-lugs correctors are patented by Blancpain and not only leaves the sides of the watches with a remarkably pure finish, but also means that changes can be accomplished with one’s finger tips instead of requiring a dedicated tool.

The movement is the automatic Blancpain in-house caliber 6654 (measuring 32mm x 5.32mm) with 28 jewels and a power reserve of 72 hours. It’s is fitted with a variable-inertia titanium balance wheel, gold regulation screws and three main spring barrels.

Usually watches with a calendar or moon phase complication have to be adjusted at a specific time of day, making sure all gears are in the correct position. If adjustments are made at the wrong time, this could damage the movement.

This Villeret model features a revolutionary method for adjusting the indications without fear of movement damage, regardless of the time of day. Every single indication can be actuated with the correctors at any time without any damage to the movement. An indication can be halfway through a change and you can push the actuator without risk.

I think the new Villeret Moon Phase looks great and has very nice features! A power reserve of 72 hours, the case has a decent size with it’s 40 mm and being able to adjust the calendar and moon phase indicators at any given moment without damaging the movement is also a great feature!

Baselworld 2010 – Blancpain Villeret Moon Phase is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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All the proceeds of the Only Watch charity auction will be donated to the research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The next Only Watch auction is organized in close collaboration with Patrizzi & Co and the Monaco Yacht Show, and is under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco.

Only Watch 2009 Quai de i'Ile dial close-up

Especially for Only Watch 2009 Vacheron Constantin created it’s first tantalum watch. Vacheron Constantin decided to create a tantalum Quai de l’Ile.  Christian Selmoni, head of Product Marketing, says this choice was made because it fits into the research spirit needed when fighting against a disease as Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

The case exists of 10 parts which are fixed to a titanium inner case. The function of this titanium inner case is to hold the movement in place. This inner case itself consists of 7 pieces. The case of the Quai de l’Ile is far more sophisticated than that of a normal case.

Vacheron Constantin Quai de i'lle for Only Watch 2009

The heart of the case, flanks and bezel sections are considered as three “interchangeable” components. On ‘normal’ Vacheron Constantin Quai de l’Ile models this allows personal customisation with three different metals – Palladium, Titanium and Pink Gold. This unique piece for Only Watch 2009 is entirely made of tantalum, except the flanks. The flanks of the watch are made of palladium.

Tantalum is a very rare and noble metal, not only because of the qualities of the metal but also because it’s unique, very dark, look. Unlike other metals used on watches, the dark color is not achieved by adding coatings or other treatments, but it is the metal’s natural color.

Only Watch 2009 Quai de i'Ile dial close-up

The dial and crystal are also far from usual. The Maltese cross symbol and the numbers 12, 3, 6 and 9 are linked into the sapphire by using multiple layers technology, called galvanic growth. The other numerals are laser engraved then inked in white ink.

Furthermore, the Only Watch Quai de l’Ile features a dark red minute track engraved and painted on a lower part of the whole dial. Finally, on the inside ring of the dial, there is an outer subdial which has a decorative 3D engraving representing the logo “Only Watch”. “Only” is engraved and “Watch” is in relief, so that when the light hits the sapphire crystal the name “Only Watch” appears in three dimensions.

At the Only Watch 2009 website all the 34 unique pieces and their specifications can be found.

Vacheron Constantin for Only Watch 2009 is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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In the 1950′s and 1960′s the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms showed there was a market for dive watches. It took Doxa untill 1967 before they decided to add a dive watch to their collection.But when they did this, they did it right. For the development and testing they teamed up with U.S. Divers. At that time Jacques Cousteau was chairman of U.S.Divers and his experience and that of other divers, was of essential value for the development of the Doxa Sub 300T, Doxa’s first dive watch. The Doxa Sub 300T was the first dive watch with an orange dial and a rotating bezel with decompression times.

Doxa Sub 300T

The orange dial and contrasting black hands makes reading time underwater easier. The orange dial is almost a trademark of the Doxa dive watches and  is one of the typical features designed in collaboration with U.S. Divers. The rotating bezel with the official US Navy air dive table for no-decompression dives engraved onto its surface, is also one of these typical features. The watch could be used to calculate decompression times so divers know how long they have to wait untill they can make their next dive. U.S. Divers bought the Doxa Sub 300T in largequantitiesand resold the watch in the United States. It was an instant hit with divers and quickly sold out upon its introduction.

Doxa Sub 300T and 5000T - photo by Peter McClean Millar

Doxa was not only the first with an orange dial dive watch and a rotating bezel with decompression times, but Doxa was also the first to bring a dive watch with helium escape valve on the consumer market. Especially the Rolex Sea-Dweller is well known for the helium escape valve and is often seen as the first dive watch with this feature. It was however Doxa who released the 300T Conquistador with helium escape valve in 1969. Rolex also made a dive watch with a helium escape valve but this was only sold to commercial dive companies like COMEX. It took Rolex untill 1971 (some say 1972) before they released a Sea-Dweller with helium escape valve for the consumer market.

Helium Escape Valve

drawing of Helium Escape Valve

When diving at great depths, divers often spend hours or even days in diving bells. In a diving bell the pressure is much higher than at the surface and divers breathe a gas mix that contain the gas helium. Since helium molecules are the second smallest found in nature, this gas is able to work its way inside the watch.

This is no problem as long as long as the diver stay under pressure.But when the dive bell resurfaces, the pressure in the dive bell decreases and at this causes the helium inside the case to expand. The build up pressure difference makes the helium want to escape from the watch. This could cause damage to the watch, like making the crystal pop off.

Most watch companies at the time simply created an even more robust case/crystal construction. Rolex and Doxa however thought of a different concept when they co-created the helium escape valve in the 1960′s. A small, one-way valve integrated in the watch case that allows pressure build up inside the watch to escape.

Doxa made history by releasing the first commercially available dive watch with a Helium Release Valve in 1969. Last year Doxa released the Sub 5000T, finally a new Doxa with a Helium Releave Valve.

Doxa re-issues

Soon after the introduction of the Sub 300 T the Swiss watch industry went into a crisis because of the availability of cheap quartz movements from Japan. Doxa joined a group of Swiss watchmakers to consolidate resources, but eventually failed and Doxa ceased operations in 1980. Since August 2002, Doxa was revived again and has introduced re-editions of its well known watches in limited quantities. The first re-edition was the Sub 30o T, soon to be followed by the Sub 600T and other re-editions. Doxa watches are sold via the Doxa website and at the time i’m writing this they offer limited numbers of the Doxa Sub 1000T and Sub 5000T for a special reduced price!

Just for fun a photo of the Doxa 600T Sharkhunter, a watch i regret having traded… hope to find a nice one again some time.

Doxa 600T Sharkhunter

Reference

Please check Dr. Peter McClean Millar’s great website dedicated to Doxa dive watches.

Watchuseek has a dedicated Doxa forum and lots of Doxaholics share their passion for this remarkeble watch brand.

Doxa Sub – first dive watch with Helium Escape Valve is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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The new Blancpain Super Trofeo Flyback Chronograph is in my opinion a classy and sporty chronograph that fits Blancpain’s profile. Blancpain‘s decission to eleminate the LEMAN serie in favor of the new L-Evolution serie is in my opnion not the best and also the newest 500 Fathoms line is just not my cup of tea.

Blancpain Super Trofeo Flyback Chronograph

The Super Trofeo Flyback Chronograph has 43,5mm large case is DLC coated and is water resistant to 100 meters. For those unfamiliar with DLC, it is a diamond carbon coating and means Diomond-Like Coating. This threatment makes a case black, just like PVD coating. The big difference between PVD and DLC coating, is that DLC is much, much harder.

Blancpain Super Trofeo Flyback Chronograph

The Super Trofeo Flyback Chronograph is design in collaboration with Lanborghini to celebrate the Super Trofeo championship. Six times a year 30 Lamborghini Gallardos compete for the Super Trofeo. The Blancpain Super Trofeo Flyback Chronograph is limited to 300 pieces. The strap is made of alcantara, just like the seats in the Lamborghini Gallardo. The movement is calibre F185, with blackened bridges and main plate, which delivers 40-hour power reserve.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms GMT

I mentioned i don’t like the new 500 Fathoms. If you want to read more about it i suggest to read the this post on Horomundi. The beauty in the photo above is the new Fifty Fathoms GMT.

Here are a few photos of the new L-Evolution series of Blancpain. The 43,5mm large L-Evolution serie will replace the 40mm large LEMAN serie and will be available next to the Villeret serie. Personally i always liked the LEMAN series a lot and thought of them as one of the few nice sized watches. I just don’t see the point in replacing with 43,5mm large watches, because the choice in large watches is just overwhelming.

Blancpain L-Evolution 8 Days

The L-Evolution features the 8 days automatic movement calibre 13R5, which is based on the hand-wound calibre 13R0. It has the same unique system of regulating screws for the titanium balance. Calibre 13R5 is equipped with three barrels for 192-hour (8-day) power reserve.

Blancpain L-Evolution Alarm GMT

The L-Evolution features calibre 1241H,already used in the Leman GMT Alarm. This automatic movement has twin barrels serving the functions: one for the time and the other one for the alarm function. The alarm and date are set for the travel location, indicated by the large hour and minute hands.

Blancpain’s new course… LARGE is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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This years winner features a revolutionairy chronograph, the first mechanical chronograph to measure elepsed time to 1/100th of a second!

F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain

F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain

The flying seconds hand at 10 o’clock goes around the subdial in one second against a scale marked in hundredths of a second. On the dial at 2 o’clock, the hand goes around in 20 seconds and the time scale is marked in seconds. The outer tachometer scale shows the speed against odd numbers of seconds – 1, 3, 5, etc. – while the inner scale corresponds to the number of seconds. The third dial, at 6 o’clock, where the hand goes around in 10 minutes, has a similar tachometer scale with speeds corresponding to 20 second markers. The chronograph is started, stopped and zeroed by a patented rocker button at 2 o’clock, so no conventional 2 pushers. The rocker button turns a column wheel which activates the levers in the start, stop, and zero sequence in the conventional way.

F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain

The manual wind movement has a power reserve of 60 hours or 30 hours with the chronograph running. As the chronograph movement is actually separate from the time movement, using the chronograph doesn’t affect the watch’s amplitude. The high-speed flying seconds driven by the escapement, rotates 360 degrees in one second, jumping in tiny 1/16th second increments. A wheel, mounted on the fourth wheel of the movement engages a pinion carrying the flying seconds hand. This means that the flying seconds is driven by both the going train of the movement, working off the barrel, and the chronograph train, working off the barrel arbour. An unexpected feature of this arrangement is that the flying seconds hand can be stopped anywhere along its one-second journey, even between two 1/100th second divisions, enabling an approximate fractional reading.

Congratulates to Francois-Paul Journe with yet another price and the creation of such an astonishing achievement.

Watch of the year is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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