Monochrome Watches » Blancpain

Blancpain X Fathoms

mono — Tue, 25 Oct 2011 19:08:04 +0000

Blancpain X Fathoms is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Blancpain just launched a new and ~~improved~~ enhanced version of the legendary Fifty Fathoms, the X Fathoms. They claim the X Fathoms is the most high-performance mechanical dive watch every produced. Read more to see our verdict.

When judging the launch and press events that took place in the largest aquarium in the world, the Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo in the Dubai Mall, we almost think that the bad times for the luxury industry are long gone by. But the real focus is of course to find out if the new X Fathoms is as much as Blancpain promises.

In the design of the X Fathoms we can recognize the same looks as in the well known Fifty Fathoms and or its legendary ancestor from 1953. At least of we look at the oversized case with rounded sides and the very recognizable bezel. The dial on the other hand is more busy and has much more colors. The crown now has ‘something’ besides it and on the 8 o’clock position we see another ‘thing’. When looking at the specifications however, it is immediately clear that this is not simply a re-designed version of the Fifty Fathoms!

Let’s take a look at the specifications:

mechanical depth gauge that measures depths up to 90 meters
separate indication on the 0-15m scale with an exceptional +/- 30 cm precision
retrograde 5-minute counter for decompression stops
water-resistant to 30 bar or 300 meters / 984 feet

This sounds impressive! Of course there are other mechanical wrist watches with a mechanical depth gauge, like the IWC Deep One and Deep Two (which is water-resistant up to 12 bar and the depth gauge measure to a depth of 50 meters), Panerai PAM 307 (no mechanical depth gauge) and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Pro Geographic (measure up to 80 meters). The X Fathoms out-performs the other mentioned dive watches, however when focussing on the water resistance and depth gauge, the X Fathoms measures 10 meters deeper than the JLC. So not a world-shocking difference, but still very impressive.

When it comes to precision of measuring the depth and to the for divers very useful feature of the 5-minute counter for decompression stops, than the X Fathom has the overhand. We can only imagine the joy a diver must have during the decompression stops and being able to look at the 5-minute retrograde hand that will tell him/her when ascending is safe again.

The video of computer renderings of the watch, shows and explains the features.

The depth indicator can be read by the yellow tipped hand and yellow numeral around the center of the dial and the small hand with red square tip indicated the maximum reached depth. The hand with the blue tip indicates the first 0-15 meters of descending in a scale at the outer rim of the dial. Between the 10 and 11 o’clock position is the retrograde 5-minute countdown indicator for the decompression stops. That’s quite a lot of info on the dial, but we think Blancpain did this in a very elegant way.

Blancpain used a new movement, caliber 9918B, in the X Fathoms, which is based on the Blancpain caliber 1315. This movement has proven itself already in several models of the Fifty Fathoms collection. The new caliber 9918B has no less than three barrels to ensure a five-day power reserve! The movement is provided with a silicon balance-spring that withstands any magnetic disturbances and ensures a better / more stable rate.

The X Fathoms has an imposing 55.65 mm case made of satin-brushed titanium is water-resistant to 30 bar and features a helium decompression valve for saturation diving and (of course) a unidirectional rotating bezel that can be found on virtually all dive watches.

The case back shows an amorphous metal membrane that is part of the mechanical depth gauge. Blancpain say their research and tests show that the elastic properties and the resistance to permanent deformation of amorphous metal make this material ideal for the depth gauge membrane. The use of this amorphous membrane allowed Blancpain to reduce its thickness by half compared to steel and gain in precision. It also allows avoiding the risk of microcracks formation given the long-term stability of the alloy.

A challenge was however to correct the non-linear nature of the membrane deformation. The ingenious solution to this problem is given by the asymmetrical toothing of the rack and pinion that linearises the curve of the membrane deformation. Blancpain has to calibrate each X Fathoms individually to guarantee maximal precision of depth indications.

Blancpain says about the rubber strap: The most complex injected rubber strap ever conceived gives the final finishing touch. It comprises 14 articulated parts to ensure a perfect fit on the wrist and allow water to seep in under the watch in order to come in contact with the membrane under all circumstances.

Blancpain stated they created the most high-performance mechanical diving watch ever produced…. it looks like we fully agree with this bold statement. What an impressive watch! Although its size might not suit every one, this is for sure not a dive watch that’s meant for desk diving. I hope all future owners will take this magnificent dive watch into the sea and use it for exactly the purpose it has been made for. And we’d love to see some photos of the X Fathom in action

More information can be found on the Blancpain website and official Facebook page.

High quality in steel – Ladies only!

Martin Green — Thu, 25 Aug 2011 10:49:03 +0000

High quality in steel – Ladies only! is a post from: Monochrome.nl

The time that a small diameter watch with a row of diamonds was believed to be the perfect women’s watch is long gone. A growing number of women in the market for a high end watch are seriously interested in the movement. Quartz is no longer the obvious choice, and a mechanical movement can proof to be a selling point.

However, most brands that use high grade mechanical movements still have the tendency to put them in precious metal cases and adorn them with diamonds or other gemstones. A beautiful option for a romantic dinner or a night out in the town, but for the everyday life she might want to opt for something a little more robust. Where can a woman turn to when she wants a good looking, steel watch, without gemstones but with a high-end, preferably in-house, movement that might even feature a complication? Here are 4 watches that do just that!

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph Ladies - For women with an active life style, or simply a taste for a more sporty watch, Omega offers the Seamaster Planet Ocean chrono in a ladies size.

With its diameter of 37.5 mm it offers everything that one would expect from a serious diving chronograph. Unidirectional bezel, helium escape valve and a 600 meters /2000 feet water resistance. The true beauty of this serious piece of machinery lies in its movement. Omega uses caliber 3313 in this Planet Ocean, not to be confused with the new caliber 9300 of the new mens Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph, that is too large in diameter for a ladies watch. Caliber 3313 is an automatic chronograph movement with a column wheel, George Daniel’s Co-axial escapement and is even Chronometer-certified. Women should know that “Great watch you wear!” is not (always) a pick up line when they wear a sports watch of this statue, but an honest compliment. The price is around $ 7,000 USD.

Glashütte Original Lady Serenade Chronograph - A different take on the chronograph can be found with Glashütte Original. The Lady Serenade Chronograph has far more elegant lines then Omega’s Planet Ocean, but is surprisingly larger.

The Glashütte measures 38mm in diameter and its steel case houses the manufacture caliber 39-31. This automatic chronograph movement features a swan neck, 21 karat gold rotor insert and no less than 51 jewels. This high amount of jewels is partially due to the fact that the movement is constructed on a base movement with a chronograph module. It gracefully displays time on an elegant mother-of-pearl dial, and features nice details like an unusual styled crown, set with an Onyx cabochon. The Lady Serenade seems to offer the best of both worlds; elegant lines and details combined with a robustly sized case (not only because of its diameter but also thanks to its thickness of 12,3 mm) that protects the in-house movement. Priced at roughly $ 12,000 USD.

Blancpain Women Double Time Zone - For women who prefer a different complication then the chronograph, Blancpain offers a watch with a second time zone. For some reason Blancpain simply named the ladies collection “Women” and this particular model is called Women Double Time Zone.

As home of the Villeret, Léman and Le Brassus collections, this name is a bit bland to say the least. Fortunately the watch itself is everything but bland! Blancpain uses an ultra slim automatic movement that is only 3.25mm thick. Besides hours, minutes, date and a nice sub seconds does it also shows a second time zone at 12 o’clock with an am/pm indicator at 9. The watch has a very balanced look to it. This is very important because it is only 34mm in diameter, so the dial has also less space to display all its information. A nice touch is the guilloche on the dial, giving the watch something of a sporty look. Blancpain offers the watch on a satin strap, but your local dealer might be persuaded to swap this for an alligator strap giving the watch a totally different look and making it more wearable in the process. The price is also around $ 12,000 USD.

Saskia Maaike Bouvier 8 Moons - Dare to be different? Or do you have the desire of wearing a watch made by an Independent? The Saskia Maaike Bouvier most certainly has a unique complication for you, housed in a bold design. Her ’8 Moons’ comes in a 45mm case that displays no less than…..8 moons!

This way you can see not only the current moon phase but also keep track of its progress during the week. Bouvier created this complication because women tend to be more sensitive to the lunar cycle then men. We beg to differ and would suggest that Bouvier quickly creates a mens version of this watch. By far the coolest part of this watch are the moons that form the outer ring of the dial and are actually filled in with Luminova! This provides for a more then spectacular look when the night falls. The inner part of the dial is partially open, showing not only parts of its inner working, but also indicating the hours with Roman numerals cut out of the dial. Apart from that the watch has nice details like pink(!) lacquered hands (grey is also available). All together this young and innovative watchmaker introduces quite a stunning watch that will probably make some men quite envious. Sorry guys, it is still a ladies only model! Price starts a bit above $ 22,000 USD.

For more information about the watches or where to buy them, check out Saskia Maaike Bouvier’s website.

Blancpain Villeret Half-Time-Zone

mono — Tue, 21 Dec 2010 16:32:32 +0000

Blancpain Villeret Half-Time-Zone is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Blancpain released the world’s first watch with second timezone that can be adjusted with 30 minute increments! The name of this watch is the Blancpain Villeret Half Time Zone or (in French) Villeret Demi-Fuseau Horaire.

It’s still a long time before the official release during Baselworld 2011, but Blancpain already sent the press release of this classic beauty with a unique complication. Strange enough it took me until January of this year, when I was in India for vacation, to realise not all time zones are one hour apart. There are time zones with 30 minute increments. So for the first time ever, there’s a wrist watch with second time zone complication that can actually indicate the exact time in those time zones!

At Baselworld 2010 Blancpain launched the new Villeret collection with the new Villeret Moonpase. The Villeret Half-Time-Zone is a second model in the new Villeret collection and personally I think it’s so much better than the L-Evolution they released at Baselworld 2009.

All functions of this watch can all be adjusted by a few turns of the crown. Only the pusher on the head of the crown serves to select fast correction or half time-zone adjustment mode, which is indicated by the indicator between the 4 and the 5. The reference time indicator is placed at the 12 position and the hands to indicate the time on your location is positioned in the centre. At the six o’clock position is the date and at nine o’clock is the day and night indicator for the reference time zone (usually home).

The Villeret Half-Time-Zone features a half-hunter case in red gold fitted with two sapphire crystals, a diameter of 40mm and tickness of a little over 12mm. This very nice sized watch can be strapped on the wrist on an alligator strap with a width of 22mm between the lugs. When the case-back lid is opened, the beautiful rotor with guilloche finish of manufacture calibre 5254DF can be admired.

The new calibre 5254DF has 321 parts of which 28 jewels. The diameter is 32,00mm, it’s 5,35mm thick and has a power reserve of 72 hours.

For more information you can check out the Blancpain website.

Baselworld 2010 – Blancpain Villeret Moon Phase

mono — Fri, 05 Feb 2010 14:36:24 +0000

Baselworld 2010 – Blancpain Villeret Moon Phase is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Blancpain has something to celebrate, their 275th anniversary. For this reason they introduce the Villeret Moon Phase and a new Villeret Collection.

I’m happy to see the new Villeret Moon Phase or Villeret Phase de Lune Demi-Savonnette as it’s called in French. It has the looks for which i have always liked Blancpain… slim, stylish, classic and timeless design. This is completely different from last year’s announcement to eliminate the beautiful Léman collection and replace it with the ‘loud’ L-Evolution collection.

The Villeret Moon Phase is the first of the Villeret collection to be unveiled. Although the name is Villeret Moon Phase, this classic beauty features a complete calendar with moon-phase. The indicators for day and date do not jump instantly, however the month indicator does.

Blancpain choose to use a so-called half-hunter case. This means the case-back has a lid that can be opened in order to see the movement. A full hunter case also has a lid that should be opened in order to see the time. The 18kt rose gold case has a diameter of 40mm and has a sapphire crystal on both sides.

The calendar mechanism is new and is a secure calendar mechanism with correctors under the lugs! These under-lugs correctors are patented by Blancpain and not only leaves the sides of the watches with a remarkably pure finish, but also means that changes can be accomplished with one’s finger tips instead of requiring a dedicated tool.

The movement is the automatic Blancpain in-house caliber 6654 (measuring 32mm x 5.32mm) with 28 jewels and a power reserve of 72 hours. It’s is fitted with a variable-inertia titanium balance wheel, gold regulation screws and three main spring barrels.

Usually watches with a calendar or moon phase complication have to be adjusted at a specific time of day, making sure all gears are in the correct position. If adjustments are made at the wrong time, this could damage the movement.

This Villeret model features a revolutionary method for adjusting the indications without fear of movement damage, regardless of the time of day. Every single indication can be actuated with the correctors at any time without any damage to the movement. An indication can be halfway through a change and you can push the actuator without risk.

I think the new Villeret Moon Phase looks great and has very nice features! A power reserve of 72 hours, the case has a decent size with it’s 40 mm and being able to adjust the calendar and moon phase indicators at any given moment without damaging the movement is also a great feature!

Vacheron Constantin for Only Watch 2009

mono — Mon, 10 Aug 2009 19:14:08 +0000

Vacheron Constantin for Only Watch 2009 is a post from: Monochrome.nl

On September 24^th the charity auction Only Watch will be held in Monaco. Many of the most prestigious Swiss watch brands created a unique watch for this charity event that is held during the Monaco Yacht Show.

All the proceeds of the Only Watch charity auction will be donated to the research of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The next Only Watch auction is organized in close collaboration with Patrizzi & Co and the Monaco Yacht Show, and is under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco.

Only Watch 2009 Quai de i'Ile dial close-up

Especially for Only Watch 2009 Vacheron Constantin created it’s first tantalum watch. Vacheron Constantin decided to create a tantalum Quai de l’Ile. Christian Selmoni, head of Product Marketing, says this choice was made because it fits into the research spirit needed when fighting against a disease as Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

The case exists of 10 parts which are fixed to a titanium inner case. The function of this titanium inner case is to hold the movement in place. This inner case itself consists of 7 pieces. The case of the Quai de l’Ile is far more sophisticated than that of a normal case.

Vacheron Constantin Quai de i'lle for Only Watch 2009

The heart of the case, flanks and bezel sections are considered as three “interchangeable” components. On ‘normal’ Vacheron Constantin Quai de l’Ile models this allows personal customisation with three different metals – Palladium, Titanium and Pink Gold. This unique piece for Only Watch 2009 is entirely made of tantalum, except the flanks. The flanks of the watch are made of palladium.

Tantalum is a very rare and noble metal, not only because of the qualities of the metal but also because it’s unique, very dark, look. Unlike other metals used on watches, the dark color is not achieved by adding coatings or other treatments, but it is the metal’s natural color.

Only Watch 2009 Quai de i'Ile dial close-up

The dial and crystal are also far from usual. The Maltese cross symbol and the numbers 12, 3, 6 and 9 are linked into the sapphire by using multiple layers technology, called galvanic growth. The other numerals are laser engraved then inked in white ink.

Furthermore, the Only Watch Quai de l’Ile features a dark red minute track engraved and painted on a lower part of the whole dial. Finally, on the inside ring of the dial, there is an outer subdial which has a decorative 3D engraving representing the logo “Only Watch”. “Only” is engraved and “Watch” is in relief, so that when the light hits the sapphire crystal the name “Only Watch” appears in three dimensions.

At the Only Watch 2009 website all the 34 unique pieces and their specifications can be found.

Doxa Sub – first dive watch with Helium Escape Valve

mono — Sun, 05 Jul 2009 13:43:03 +0000

Doxa Sub – first dive watch with Helium Escape Valve is a post from: Monochrome.nl

The Doxa Sub dive watch is famous for it’s orange dial and rotating bezel to compute no-decompression times. Not many people know that Doxa was the first to have a publicly available dive watch with a Helium Release Valve.

In the 1950′s and 1960′s the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms showed there was a market for dive watches. It took Doxa untill 1967 before they decided to add a dive watch to their collection.But when they did this, they did it right. For the development and testing they teamed up with U.S. Divers. At that time Jacques Cousteau was chairman of U.S.Divers and his experience and that of other divers, was of essential value for the development of the Doxa Sub 300T, Doxa’s first dive watch. The Doxa Sub 300T was the first dive watch with an orange dial and a rotating bezel with decompression times.

Doxa Sub 300T

The orange dial and contrasting black hands makes reading time underwater easier. The orange dial is almost a trademark of the Doxa dive watches and is one of the typical features designed in collaboration with U.S. Divers. The rotating bezel with the official US Navy air dive table for no-decompression dives engraved onto its surface, is also one of these typical features. The watch could be used to calculate decompression times so divers know how long they have to wait untill they can make their next dive. U.S. Divers bought the Doxa Sub 300T in largequantitiesand resold the watch in the United States. It was an instant hit with divers and quickly sold out upon its introduction.

Doxa Sub 300T and 5000T - photo by Peter McClean Millar

Doxa was not only the first with an orange dial dive watch and a rotating bezel with decompression times, but Doxa was also the first to bring a dive watch with helium escape valve on the consumer market. Especially the Rolex Sea-Dweller is well known for the helium escape valve and is often seen as the first dive watch with this feature. It was however Doxa who released the 300T Conquistador with helium escape valve in 1969. Rolex also made a dive watch with a helium escape valve but this was only sold to commercial dive companies like COMEX. It took Rolex untill 1971 (some say 1972) before they released a Sea-Dweller with helium escape valve for the consumer market.

Helium Escape Valve

drawing of Helium Escape Valve

When diving at great depths, divers often spend hours or even days in diving bells. In a diving bell the pressure is much higher than at the surface and divers breathe a gas mix that contain the gas helium. Since helium molecules are the second smallest found in nature, this gas is able to work its way inside the watch.

This is no problem as long as long as the diver stay under pressure.But when the dive bell resurfaces, the pressure in the dive bell decreases and at this causes the helium inside the case to expand. The build up pressure difference makes the helium want to escape from the watch. This could cause damage to the watch, like making the crystal pop off.

Most watch companies at the time simply created an even more robust case/crystal construction. Rolex and Doxa however thought of a different concept when they co-created the helium escape valve in the 1960′s. A small, one-way valve integrated in the watch case that allows pressure build up inside the watch to escape.

Doxa made history by releasing the first commercially available dive watch with a Helium Release Valve in 1969. Last year Doxa released the Sub 5000T, finally a new Doxa with a Helium Releave Valve.

Doxa re-issues

Soon after the introduction of the Sub 300 T the Swiss watch industry went into a crisis because of the availability of cheap quartz movements from Japan. Doxa joined a group of Swiss watchmakers to consolidate resources, but eventually failed and Doxa ceased operations in 1980. Since August 2002, Doxa was revived again and has introduced re-editions of its well known watches in limited quantities. The first re-edition was the Sub 30o T, soon to be followed by the Sub 600T and other re-editions. Doxa watches are sold via the Doxa website and at the time i’m writing this they offer limited numbers of the Doxa Sub 1000T and Sub 5000T for a special reduced price!

Just for fun a photo of the Doxa 600T Sharkhunter, a watch i regret having traded… hope to find a nice one again some time.

Doxa 600T Sharkhunter

Reference

Please check Dr. Peter McClean Millar’s great website dedicated to Doxa dive watches.

Watchuseek has a dedicated Doxa forum and lots of Doxaholics share their passion for this remarkeble watch brand.

Blancpain’s new course… LARGE

mono — Mon, 11 May 2009 21:21:33 +0000

Blancpain’s new course… LARGE is a post from: Monochrome.nl

At Baselworld Blancpain presented several new models that didn’t immediately rock my world, so to say. That’s why i took some time to give the new Blancpain models some more thought. My opinion hasn’t changed and i think most new models are just not reflecting the brand’s beautiful and classy heritage, except for one.

The new Blancpain Super Trofeo Flyback Chronograph is in my opinion a classy and sporty chronograph that fits Blancpain’s profile. Blancpain ‘s decission to eleminate the LEMAN serie in favor of the new L-Evolution serie is in my opnion not the best and also the newest 500 Fathoms line is just not my cup of tea.

Blancpain Super Trofeo Flyback Chronograph

The Super Trofeo Flyback Chronograph has 43,5mm large case is DLC coated and is water resistant to 100 meters. For those unfamiliar with DLC, it is a diamond carbon coating and means Diomond-Like Coating. This threatment makes a case black, just like PVD coating. The big difference between PVD and DLC coating, is that DLC is much, much harder.

Blancpain Super Trofeo Flyback Chronograph

The Super Trofeo Flyback Chronograph is design in collaboration with Lanborghini to celebrate the Super Trofeo championship. Six times a year 30 Lamborghini Gallardos compete for the Super Trofeo. The Blancpain Super Trofeo Flyback Chronograph is limited to 300 pieces. The strap is made of alcantara, just like the seats in the Lamborghini Gallardo. The movement is calibre F185, with blackened bridges and main plate, which delivers 40-hour power reserve.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms GMT

I mentioned i don’t like the new 500 Fathoms. If you want to read more about it i suggest to read the this post on Horomundi. The beauty in the photo above is the new Fifty Fathoms GMT.

Here are a few photos of the new L-Evolution series of Blancpain. The 43,5mm large L-Evolution serie will replace the 40mm large LEMAN serie and will be available next to the Villeret serie. Personally i always liked the LEMAN series a lot and thought of them as one of the few nice sized watches. I just don’t see the point in replacing with 43,5mm large watches, because the choice in large watches is just overwhelming.

Blancpain L-Evolution 8 Days

The L-Evolution features the 8 days automatic movement calibre 13R5, which is based on the hand-wound calibre 13R0. It has the same unique system of regulating screws for the titanium balance. Calibre 13R5 is equipped with three barrels for 192-hour (8-day) power reserve.

Blancpain L-Evolution Alarm GMT

The L-Evolution features calibre 1241H,already used in the Leman GMT Alarm. This automatic movement has twin barrels serving the functions: one for the time and the other one for the alarm function. The alarm and date are set for the travel location, indicated by the large hour and minute hands.

Watch of the year

mono — Thu, 05 Mar 2009 20:46:50 +0000

Watch of the year is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Like every year, Timezone held an election for the watch of the year. The forums moderators made a selection of 6 ultimate watches, released in 2008, and the ultimate choice is made by the forum member’s votes. The six selected watches where the Blancpain Carrousel Volant Une Minute, F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain, Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyro Tourbillon 2, Rolex Sea-Dweller Deep Sea, Seiko Credor ‘Torque Return’ Spring Drive and the Vacheron Constantin Quai de I’lle.

This years winner features a revolutionairy chronograph, the first mechanical chronograph to measure elepsed time to 1/100th of a second!

F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain

F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain

The flying seconds hand at 10 o’clock goes around the subdial in one second against a scale marked in hundredths of a second. On the dial at 2 o’clock, the hand goes around in 20 seconds and the time scale is marked in seconds. The outer tachometer scale shows the speed against odd numbers of seconds – 1, 3, 5, etc. – while the inner scale corresponds to the number of seconds. The third dial, at 6 o’clock, where the hand goes around in 10 minutes, has a similar tachometer scale with speeds corresponding to 20 second markers. The chronograph is started, stopped and zeroed by a patented rocker button at 2 o’clock, so no conventional 2 pushers. The rocker button turns a column wheel which activates the levers in the start, stop, and zero sequence in the conventional way.

F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain

The manual wind movement has a power reserve of 60 hours or 30 hours with the chronograph running. As the chronograph movement is actually separate from the time movement, using the chronograph doesn’t affect the watch’s amplitude. The high-speed flying seconds driven by the escapement, rotates 360 degrees in one second, jumping in tiny 1/16th second increments. A wheel, mounted on the fourth wheel of the movement engages a pinion carrying the flying seconds hand. This means that the flying seconds is driven by both the going train of the movement, working off the barrel, and the chronograph train, working off the barrel arbour. An unexpected feature of this arrangement is that the flying seconds hand can be stopped anywhere along its one-second journey, even between two 1/100th second divisions, enabling an approximate fractional reading.

Congratulates to Francois-Paul Journe with yet another price and the creation of such an astonishing achievement.