Thomas Prescher’s atelier is in Twann, a small village down the road of Biel-Bienne toward Neuchatel, next to Lake Biel-Bienne. This is where he creates the incredible triple axis tourbillon, a masterpiece no other watchmaker has successfully produced to this day. The Triple Axis Tourbillon was initially presented together with a Single Axis and Double Axis Tourbillon, as the Trilogy. In following reports I’ll tell more about Prescher‘s Trilogy, Tempus Vivendi, Scultura Una and maybe some news…?

At Baselworld 2009 Peter Speake-Marin launched caliber SM2, which he designed with sturdiness, reliability and ease of maintenance in mind. Being a (very good) watchmaker, he knows the importance of these principles and now integrated them with some typical British watchmaking elements.

It’s no secret anymore that Speake-Marin will launch another new, entirely self developed, movement pretty soon. Although caliber SM2 was designed to be the basis for several future movements, quite a bit of significant changes had to be made for the new caliber. It won’t be long and for now all i can say is that I am very exited about Speake-Marin’s new movement and everything that will surround it.

Now it won’t be fair to compare anything I have seen (and probably will see) to the following manufacture I visited. Every watch Greubel Forsey create is incredibly impressive. It really is another league and I think it’s best described as a league of their own. I know this sounds like big words, but if you are every in the position to see and touch one of the Greubel Forsey timepieces i’m sure you’ll feel the same.

Gruebel Forsey‘s design is bold and so everything about the watches. They are not for the faint of heart… The most recent release is the Double Tourbillon 30 degrees Historique. Limited to 11 pieces in red gold and 11 pieces in platinum, they will be the last of in total 186 pieces of the Double Tourbillon 30 Degrees to be produced.

First visits of Monochrome’s Tour de Suisse is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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Last year Baselworld was a rush of only 3 days, absolutely not enough to see everything i’d like to see. This year i’m taking a few days extra to see the many beautiful new watches and speak to the watchmakers.

This morning i already got a closer look at the movement of the new MB&F Horological Machine 4 (HM4). The movement is developed by Laurent Besse and Bernard Reynard. An incredible movement with two barrels… and two crowns. However MB&F does not want to say (yet) what the function of the crowns is…. The big secret of how the new HM4 will look and which functions it has is yet to be revealed, probably mid 2010.

Usually you can see a watch ‘in the metal’, however this does not apply to the another beauty from MB&F, the Horological Machine 2 in sapphire. Making this sapphire edition of the HM2 was not an easy thing to do. The sapphire is 3.6 mm thick and all holes are drilled. A very delicate work, as 4 out of 5 crystals break during the drilling.

Later this afternoon is the official launch of the book The Hands of Time. Peter Speake-Marin initiated the idea to publish a book for the 25th anniversary of the Académie Horlogère Des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI). Long-time watch connoisseur and aficionado Ian Skellern got the honor (or difficult task) of writing the book.

The Watch Lounge has a report of the book The Hands of Time. I’m goign to buy a copy this afternoon and get it signed by the members of the Académie. The book is available via the special AHCI Book website for only 60 CHF or around 41 Euro.

Baselworld day one is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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Like last year, Robert-Jan from Fratellowatches and I will go to Baselworld. In less than 2 hours we will drive south for an absolute über-nerd-watch-week. On my wrist is a d.m.h watch from the Dutch watchmaker Fred Dingemans, my d.m.h.

This year we will be there the whole week to meet representatives of watch brands. I’m looking forward to an exiting week of watches, watches and more watches. No, this is no punishment

I will focus on the independent haute horlogerie. And on saturday it’s finally time to receive my new MIH Watch!! I really can’t wait to see it in the metal and strap it on my wrist.

Stay tuned for more news !!

Baselworld…. here we come!! is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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3. Grand Opening Grönefeld Boutique

It was a rare moment that the Netherlands where covered in snow. Traffic and road administrations where not ready for the snowy and slippery road, so it was long, long ride… Finally after 5 hours driving (usually 2 hours) i arrived at the Grand Opening of the Grönefeld Boutique. I was just in time to join the watchmakers and other guests for the evening program. And what a program it was… Read my report at the AHCI and Independent forum of The PuristS Pro.

The opening’s report was also posted at the PuristS Pro’s front page as the latest blog story. Since the opening was not the usual opening with bubbles and dinner in a restaurant with at least 1 Michelin star. Nothing wrong with such an opening, don’t get me wrong! But this opening… was the most fun opening ever!

To read the report and see the photos, click the image below.

Later i’ll post loads of photos of the watches the Grönefeld Boutique has in the collection… and of course a few wrist shots

Grönefeld Boutique – Report of opening is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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Bart and Tim Grönefeld are both very familiar with this segment of the watch industry, especially after the launch of their own GMT-06 with tourbillon and minute repeater with cathedral gongs. Since the press release of the opening of the boutique last month, 2 more brands have been added to the collection!

Usually i’m no fan of slogans, however the Grönefeld’s slogan sounds very good i must say! Exeptional watches for distinctive people.

The new brands that have been added are Cornelius & Cie and McGonigle. Both are very interesting an make a very build up in different price ranges starting with a S.U.F. Flying Finn for well below € 3000.

The presence of so many interesting watches, so close to home, is absolutely thrilling news for me. I’m very much looking forward to the Grand Opening coming saturday, December 19th. Especially now i know several of the watchmakers will be present them selves!

Kees Engelbarts, John and Stephan McGonigle and Peter Speake-Marin will accompany Bart and Tim Grönefeld to celebrate the opening of this unique watch store. There are only a few watch stores completely focussed on Independent Haute Horlogerie, world wide.

Especially in North West Europe a watch store like this is unique. Due to it’s location in Oldenzaal, the Netherlands, it only a few hours drive from anywhere in the Netherlands, but also north west Germany and maybe even south Denmark.

The Grönefeld Boutique’s collection: McGonigle, Cornelius & Cie, Speake-Marin, Sarpaneva, S.U.F., Kees Engelbarts and of course Grönefeld.

Engelbarts, McGonigle and Speake-Marin present at opening Grönefeld Boutique is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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In my first chronicle about Independent Watchmakers & the ‘BIG name’ brands I wrote about the difference in reputation and the role of marketing. The ‘BIG names’ usually have a name that is well known to most people, especially among watch collectors. Not only a long history plays a role in this, also huge marketing budgets helps relatively new-comers to build a reputation very fast.

Just take a look at these ads of Omega and Patek Philippe. They look familiar, don’t they? You have probably seen them in numerous magazines. And advertising in print media is expensive!

Omega advertisements

Patek Philippe advertisements

Independent Watchmakers don’t have huge marketing budgets, get almost no media-attention in print media and marginal attention from online media. They have to be innovative in their ways to communicate with potential customers. Some Independent Watchmakers use social media like Facebook and Twitter and instead of the institutionalized media, they use online media like weblogs.

In part 2, that has just been published on Worldtempus.com, i’ll share some thoughts about the differences in how a new watches grows from idea to final product.

Feel free to share you thoughts on this matter, by posting a comment or sent me an email. Stay tuned for part 3.

Independent Haute Horlogerie vs. the ‘BIG Names’ part 2 is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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Tim and Bart Grönefeld already made name with their own highly complicated wrist watch, the Grönefeld GTM-06. On December 19th they will open the doors of their new boutique, representing Independent Haute Horlogerie brands like Kees Engelbarts, Sarpaneva, Speake-Marin, S.U.F. and of course their own watches!

Grönefeld Boutique - Kees, Speake-Marin, Sarpaneva, S.U.F., Grönefeld

Usually when you’re interested in a watch or just looking for something new, you can go to a local or nearby AD. Independent watch brands already get much lesser attention in media, both online and in print. This makes it much harder for watch collectors to come across them and get to know these watches.

That’s why i think it was very good news when the Dutch watch magazine Watching asked me to write a series of articles about Independent watch makers. And that’s why i think the opening of the Grönefeld Boutique is great news! Finally a place where watch collectors and aficionados can see and feel these beautiful hand-made watches.

The Grand Opening of the Grönefeld Boutique is on saturday December 19th. Take a look at the website for information and register for the opening. This is an excellent opportunity to learn more about Independent Haute Horlogerie.

The Grönefeld Boutique is located in Oldenzaal, in the east of the Netherlands. This location makes it possible for watch collectors and aficionados from the Netherlands, northern Germany and even southern Denmark to visit the Grönefeld Boutique. Time for a road trip

Grand Opening Grönefeld Boutique is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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Yours truly is the writer of the article and i want to thank Watching for paying attention to Independent Watchmakers. This article is first in a series called ‘opgeMERKt’ which could be translated in noticed. And the name actually says it all…  these articles can help Independent Watchmakers to be noticed.

It will give a short introduction of the watchmakers and his watches. Since there’s so much to tell, further information can best be found online. Monochrome already writes about Independent Watchmakers, including the watchmaker of the first article, Sarpaneva. In Watching’s next issue another ‘opgeMERKt’ about another Independent Watchmaker.

article opgeMERKt in Watching

For more information you may want to use the search function on Monochrome.

Worldtempus.com published my ‘chronicle‘ about independents vs big names; soon part II will follow.

Dutch watch magazine writes about Independent Watchmakers is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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Most well-known BIG brands are gathered under the wings of huge groups like LVMH, Richemont and the Swatch Group. And than there are the small independent watchmakers. Of course there are many, many differences although they all have more or less a similar goal… To make beautiful watches and sell them.

Of course there are differences… When it comes to numbers produced, advertising, development and design. These differences are subject for a series of  ‘Chronicles’ that will be published on Worldtempus.com. Part one can be read on Worldtempus.com to be followed by another one next week.

Have fun reading my latest Chronicle about Independent watch makers & the BIG names – part 1.

Independent Haute Horlogerie vs. the BIG Names – part 1 is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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Pita Barcelona is Aniceto Jiménez Pita’s watch brand. And guess where he’s from…. Aniceto Pita (1947) is a self-taught watchmaker who has been passionate about watches since his childhood. At age 11 he made his first clock and in 1971 he opened his first clock shop in Barcelona. Starting in 1990 Aniceto started developping his own time setting mechanism (Pita-TSM), which was patented in 2003.

Aniceto Pita

In 2004 Aniceto Pita was accepted as candidate of the AHCI and in 2006 he was accepted as a full member. Being an independent watchmaker is about hand making unique watches; therefore Aniceto offers customization, giving freedom of choice in every element of the watch, to deliver one of-a-kind timepieces.

Every creation by Pita has its own personal appeal and is crafted with a unique purpose, ranging from the Carousel where the whole movement rotates in its own axis to tell time, to the 5000m water resistant Oceana dive watch with two patented systems.

Pita Oceana

Water resistance is most influenced by the weak spots of the watch case, like the crown, caseback and crystal. These case elements create potential leaks and are usually secured by rubber o-rings. Suppose there’s no caseback or crown. That watch is the Pita Oceana. By using two patented systems, Pita creates a water-entry free case.

The two patented systems are the Pita-TSM (Time Setting Mechanism) and Pita-RT (Remote Transmission). In the video Aniceto Pita explains what his goal was and how he did it. The video is in Spanish, but it has English subtitles

Without crown and caseback, the Pita Oceana offers water resistance to 5,000 meters! The 43mm case has a 9.8mm thick crystal that is fixated in the case without seals, so no maintance! The rotating bezel has 120 clicks or positions to keep track of the diving time.

Furthermore the star-shaped second hand is a chronomatic depth-meter. A what… yes, it’s a depthmeter. The points have different colors. Under water some colors can’t be recognized from a certain depth. So based on the color you can’t see anymore you can estimate the depth.

Chronomatic scale

Inside the Pita-003 movement is the beating heart. It’s a heavily modified ETA-2678, featuring the two patented systems, to allow setting time under water. Yes indeed… setting time under water! With these kind of specifications i think it’s fair to say the Pita Oceana is the ultimate dive watch.

The Pita Oceana comes in stainless steel, titanium, 18ct. gold or platinum. I’m not sure whether the black is PVD or DLC, but i just love this watch in black. Doesn’t it look great?

Pita Oceana

Pita Oceana – the ultimate dive watch is a post from: Monochrome.nl

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