Monochrome Watches » A. Lange und Söhne

Pre SIHH 2012 – The new Lange und Söhne Datograph Auf/Ab

mono — Tue, 20 Dec 2011 08:00:40 +0000

Pre SIHH 2012 – The new Lange und Söhne Datograph Auf/Ab is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Lange und Söhne call it the new benchmark in chronograph design and we think they are absolutely right. The new Datograph Auf/Ab sets the bar at a new level and the improvements go beyond adding a power reserve indicator.

According to many collectors the normal Datograph was already one of the most desirable chronographs ever made, only surpassed by it’s bigger brother the Lange und Söhne Double Split. Will the new Datograph Auf/Ab bring a change in that hierarchy?

Let’s look at what’s been changed/improved.

First of all the case size has increased from 39 mm to 41 mm. Something that might seem like ‘almost nothing’ is a big change for Lange und Söhne because they usually keep diameters at a moderate, almost old fashioned, size of less than 40 mm. While we at Monochrome prefer such ideas about the diameter of a watch, many watch aficionados usually don’t. I say ‘usually’ because I’ve never heard any complaints about the diameter of the Datograph (or Lange 1), not even from the most hardcore Panerai fan. It looks like Lange und Söhne is the exception. Still I believe most collectors won’t mind that Lange und Söhne decided to increase the diameter by 2 millimeter.

Another change, which is related to the increased diameter, is the slightly larger date aperture. Lange und Söhne wanted to keep the proportions the same as on the Datograph, so they increased the date aperture with 4%. That’s what I call attention for detail!

On the dial we can see another change, which is the absence of the Roman numerals II, VI, and X. Since the ‘Saxonia family’ got a small make-over last year, the new stick markers on the dial of the Datograph Auf/Ab is now coherent with the rest of the family.

The change that gave the new Datograph its name is the power reserve indicator, which might refer to the old 1815 Auf/Ab. The power reserve indicator is positioned at 6 o’clock and is a very pleasant function on a manually wound watch. Not visible on the dial, yet another improvement, is that the Datograph Auf/Ab now has 60 hours of autonomy when fully wound. This means an increased power reserve of 24 extra hours, compared to the normal Datograph. Only when the hand enters the red zone on the third day will it be necessary to supply the movement with new energy. The 24 extra power-reserve hours were achieved mainly with a larger mainspring barrel.

When it was first presented in 1999, the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph attracted attention for its classic column-wheel movement with a precisely jumping minute counter and flyback function. This jumping minute counter makes it easy to read the elapsed time, when the chronograph is stopped.

This mechanism was used in earlier times, especially in pocket watches and high-quality wristwatches. Lange und Söhne has improved this mechanism and was granted a patent for an adjustable operating lever. The video below shows how it works.

The Datograph Auf/Ab aso features a Flyback function, which allows the chronograph to be instantaneously reset to zero during an ongoing measurement, simply by pressing a pusher. Originating from the early days of aviation, this mechanism makes it possible to perform instantly consecutive time measurements by combining three steps – stop, reset, restart – into one: one single push of a button will stop and reset the Datograph Auf/Ab in the middle of an ongoing time measurement. When the button is released, a new time measurement is initiated immediately.

Technically it’s all mighty impressive! Actually like we are used to from this beautiful German watch manufacture. But the question whether the new Datograph Auf/Ab will distrub the reign of the Double Split, might boil down to how collectors value the design of the movement.

The movement, caliber L951.6, which can be seen trough the sapphire case back, has a classical frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour. This assures optimised rate values. It is powered by a balance spring, also developed and crafted on site by Lange. The manually wound movement is crafted to the Lange quality standards and is decorated and assembled by hand. The plates and bridges are made of untreated German silver and, typical for Lange und Söhne, the balance cock is engraved by hand.

Also beautifully visible is the column wheel that controls the chronograph functions, four screwed gold chatons and the levers of the flyback function. A true visual treat!

Lange manufacture calibre L951.6,

Movement parts: 451
Jewels: 46
Screwed gold chatons: 4
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillation system: Shock-resistant balance with eccentric poising weights; superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house, frequency 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour, precision beat adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring
Power reserve: 60 hours when fully wound
Functions: Time indicated in hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds with stop seconds; flyback chronograph with precisely jumping; power-reserve indicator; outsize date

Operating elements: Crown for winding the watch and setting the time, two pushers for operating the chronograph, one pusher for rapid correction of the outsize date

Case dimensions: Diameter: 41.0 millimetres; height: 13.1 millimetres

Movement dimensions: Diameter: 30.6 millimetres; height: 7.9 millimetres

Case: Platinum

Dial: Solid silver, black

Hands: Rhodiumed gold, steel

For more information, visit the Lange und Söhne website or their official Facebook page.

Weekly Watch Photo – Lange und Söhne Double Split on IWC-Santoni strap

mono — Sun, 18 Sep 2011 14:49:06 +0000

Weekly Watch Photo – Lange und Söhne Double Split on IWC-Santoni strap is a post from: Monochrome.nl

When IWC launched the new Portofino Hand-Wound 8-days, they did something ingenious. This model comes on a hand-made strap by the famous shoe manufactorer Santoni and these straps became a much discussed topic on the internet.

Luckily the owner of the Double Split also has very good photographic skills and that’s why this wonderful combination, resulting in a beautiful photo, made it to be Monochrome’s Weekly Watch Photo. Below you’ll find more of his photos showing this drop dead gorgeous combination.

Changing straps is one of the things we from Monochrome love. It’s a way to enjoy your watch in a new way, match it with specific shoes or simply to get another look. Earlier we wrote about changing straps on our IWC 3717 Pilot Chronograph and TAG Heuer Monaco.

The photos we show you are made by Edwin, co-moderator of the A. Lange und Söhne forum at Timezone. He was so kind to let me share these photos showing the Santoni straps on his new Lange und Söhne Double Split. The Double Split has featured before as Monochrome’s Weekly Watch Photo, because of it’s incomparable movement. Today however, we’re not paying attention to the most beautiful chronograph caliber, but to the nice dial and combination with the IWC/Santoni strap.

Edwin got himself these two IWC/Santoni straps. Magnificent straps, hand-made and colored by like the Santoni shoes. Fratellowatches made a nice report on that.

A normal IWC alligator strap costs € 231 Euro (before tax) and the price of the new IWC/Santoni straps is € 315 Euro (also before tax). Buyers from within the EU pay € 375 Euro (including tax) for the IWC/Santoni strap. Not too bad for such a nice strap

One last photo, a wristshot, to show this killer combination…

You can order these wonderful straps at our friends: IWC Santoni strap at the Ace Jewelers eBoutique. Please mention Monochrome when you order a strap and share the picture, when you mount it on your watch!

The Auction Hammer – The start of a new season

Martin Green — Sun, 11 Sep 2011 12:34:22 +0000

The Auction Hammer – The start of a new season is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Auction seasons has begun again after a brief summer recess. On September 14 Antiquorum auctions off 319 items in their New York auction. While going through their catalogue one cannot do anything else then to be surprised and wonder….for a wide variety of reasons.

Take for example lot 13. This features an IWC Aquatimer 2000 (ref. 3568) that was originally sold on May 20^th 2011… One wonders how a watch that is less than 6 months old can be on auction so soon? Since Antiquorum rates the watch as ‘very good’ one can expect that it is slightly worn. With an estimate off $2,000 – $3,000 USD this might be a nice opportunity to get this very young divers watch out of Schaffhausen for a sharp price.

Talking about estimates, sometimes utterly astonishment is an understatement when it comes to this topic. Lot 260 features a 2002 Breitling Navitimer 92 in 18k yellow gold. It’s estimate? $1,500 – $2,000 USD! Even when you don’t like Breitling’s you’ve got to respect the Navitimer and especially in 18K yellow gold is this still a very precious wristwatch. Its current estimate is even lower then what Breitling charges for the 18K folding clasp that comes with this Navitimer. That might make this Navitimer an interesting purchase for a collector of aviation watches. Oh, and in case somebody outbids you, do not worry lot 263 is an almost identical Navitimer, also in 18K yellow gold, but now from 2004. Estimate this time is between $1,500 and $2,500 USD.

We are staying in the air with lot 125, which is an original pilot’s watch made by Stowa for the German Luftwaffe (air force) in 1940. Stowa was one of the five brands that officially supplied the German pilot’s with suitable watches. The others are Wempe, Laco, Lange & Sohne and IWC. Today Stowa (that is owned by independent watchmaker Jörg Schauer) is still in business and still sells new pilot’s watches at quite an attractive price level. These new watches can be a nice option when you want a pilot’s watch that is really rooted in history without breaking the bank for one of the original. With an estimate between $2,000 and $3,000 USD this Stowa is also rather affordable by itself. Wear ability is a whole other question because not many people have a wrist that can comfortably accommodate a 55mm diameter, but then again the pilots wore this watch around their leg.

Interesting for collectors of this type of military watches is that lot 134 and lot 135 feature the German Luftwaffe watches which were made by Laco-Durowe and have an estimate between $3,000 and $5,000 USD. It seems that the Luftwaffe always flew in pairs because lot 136 and lot 137 feature the watches Lange & Sohne made for them. Estimate for those is between $5,000 USD and $7,000 USD.

But all these watches are put to shame by the estimate that is put on the IWC-version of the Luftwaffe watch, for sale as lot 138. This watch was delivered in 1940 and has an estimate of a stunning $40,000 to $50,000 USD. It’s apparently clear who has the biggest pilot!

Chronographs are popular complications that get even more exciting when they are of the Foudroyante kind. But it can get even more exciting as Graham displays in lot 157. This classical styled watch displays its unique feature at a sub-dial at 9 o’clock. Here a small hand rushes around its dial in 8 steps per second, indicating the measured time up till 1/8th of a second. To highlight this rare complication the sapphire crystal is equipped with a large cyclops that covers the entire sub-dial. Some might recognize this complication from a limited edition Panerai. The PAM 246 has the same complication as this Graham, housed in their famous Radiomir-case. For Ferrari-enthusiasts Panerai also offers this movement in their Ferrari collection, here under reference FER00025. This exquisite Graham has an estimate of $4,000 – $6,000 USD, making it a possible financially attractive alternative for the two watches mentioned earlier.

Sometimes you ask yourself until what extend money talks when it comes to auctions. Lot 311 features a not unattractive Patek Philippe ref. 2449 that is rated ‘Very good’ by Antiquorum experts. How it ever got that rating is a mystery since the dial is heavily oxidized, the hands are partially replaced and the movement in scratched. Worth restoring? Definitely, but apparently we do have a different interpretation of ‘very good’ then Antiquorum. When you are interested in a restoration project you might want to consider biding on this Patek. Its estimate is $5,000 and $6,000 USD.

Other watches might be rare, but then it can still be difficult to find a buyer for them, even when they are made by Patek Philippe. Lot 81, an Ellipse (ref. 3875) in 18K yellow gold, with a very attractive integrated bracelet doesn’t sound bad. A factory set diamond bezel and hour indexes might only add to the appeal for some, even though this Ellipse is equipped with the less desirable quartz movement. The catch is however in the custom made dial. The brown tone is something one must like, but since it’s (former) owner also had his initials printed in gold on the dial it limits the potentials buyers to those who have the initials J.A.A. (or want to pay a premium when they sent the watch to Patek for service to get a replacement dial). Estimate? Between $8,000 – $10,000 USD.

Slowly but surely watch collectors and connoisseurs are rediscovering watches with a dead-beat seconds complication. Of course magnificent watches like the Habring2 Chezard 116, F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain and Grönefeld One Hertz greatly help to this cause. Antiquorum also auctions off another contender in this field as lot 132 . In 2001 Panerai introduced a limited edition of 160 watches that feature this rare complication. The Radiomir Independent, also known as PAM 80, has a Chezard caliber 7400 movement. Nice touch is that Panerai actually put a little Cyclops on the glass back to highlight the part of the gear train that is responsible for the one second increments of the seconds hand. A 42mm white gold Radiomir case houses this movement and Panerai opted for a deep blue dial for this model. It’s estimate is $10,000 – $15,000 USD.

All together Antiquorum seems to start of the auction season with something that comes to mind regarding weddings; something old, something new, something borrowed and something blue! Antiquorum auctions the mentioned lots on Wednesday 14^th of September in New York.

Weekly Watch Photo – Lange und Söhne 1815

mono — Sun, 04 Sep 2011 18:14:30 +0000

Weekly Watch Photo – Lange und Söhne 1815 is a post from: Monochrome.nl

At Monochrome we really enjoy beautiful photographed watches and many of these pictures are made by watch collectors who are also passionate about photography. Today it’s Jocke’s A. Lange und Söhne 1815.

More and more watch aficionados with a passion for photography share gorgeous photos they shot from they collection. Just think of the Watch Photographer, Martin Wilmsen, and Peter Chong who are all doing an amazing job! Somehow the real watch aficionados know how and what parts/angles of a watch to show on a photo. These are the photos that really appeal to other watch enthusiasts.

Jocke was one of the first watch aficionados making the most gorgeous photos of his watch collection. Lately he made photos of his A. Lange und Söhne 1815. Jocke shows the beautiful contrast between the solid silver (argenté) dial and the blued steel hands, placed on top of a jeans to enhance the contrast even more.

The photos below show the for Lange und Söhne so typical three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver. There are five screwed gold chatons, which are held in place by blued screws. The three-quarter plate is finished with the regular Glashütte ribbing.

The one-quarter of the movement that isn’t covered by the plate, shows the escapement with swan-neck regulator. The balance is held in place by the hand-engraved balance cock, that is decorated using free-hand techniques and this makes each 1815 a one-of-a-kind. Another lovely detail is the hand beveled edge of the three-quarter plate and the classic screw balance that beats with a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour.

The photo shows the A. Lange und Söhne 1815 in white gold, which measures 40 mm in diameter and is 8.9 mm thick. I’d say a perfect dress watch! The price of the A. Lange und Söhne 1815 is around $20k USD.

More of Jocke’s photos can be admired on his Watch Wallpaper website. Information about the Lange und Söhne 1815 and other models, can be found at the A. Lange und Söhne Website.

Weekly Watch Photo – Lange und Söhne Zeitwerk for Kidz Horizon

mono — Sun, 28 Aug 2011 08:59:44 +0000

Weekly Watch Photo – Lange und Söhne Zeitwerk for Kidz Horizon is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Lange und Söhne donated a unique version of the Lange Zeitwerk to the Kidz Horizon charity auction and Peter Chong made the press photos. As always gorgeous photos of a gorgeous watch.

At Monochrome we love beautiful timepieces and great photos showing the beauty of them. In this particular case the gorgeous movement of the Lange Zeitwerk is visible and so is the superb finishing qualities of Lange und Söhne. Lange und Söhne first released the Lange Zeitwerk in 2009 and it has become one of the most recognizable timepieces released in the past 10 years. Lange’s new Zeitwerk Striking Time aslo proves this.

This unique version is made in white gold and comes with a grey dial. A beautiful combination we think. The normal retail price of the white gold version is around $ 70,000 USD. This unique piece, with SGP 2011 engraved in the case back, raised more than $ 114,000 USD.

A few months ago Peter Chong released a book about the A.Lange und Söhne Pour le Merite Collection. He not only has a passion for Lange und Söhne watches, but also for high resolution photography. Something he shares through his blog and on the Lange und Söhne forum at Timezone.Lange und Söhne asked him to make the press photos for this unique Lange Zeitwerk.

More photos can be admired at Peter Chong’s blog.

Peter Chong’s book about the Lange and Söhne Pour le Mérite Collection

mono — Wed, 13 Jul 2011 08:12:53 +0000

Peter Chong’s book about the Lange and Söhne Pour le Mérite Collection is a post from: Monochrome.nl

For fans of A. Lange & Söhne watches and the Pour le Mérite Collection in particular, there is a new bible. Peter Chong made a book about the Pour le Mérite Collection, filled with the most gorgeous photos and explaining much about the brand’s history and technical highlights.

Peter Chong’s photos have already been selected for the Monochrome Weekly Watch Photo and other posts and that’s for a good reason. Peter is a specialist in high resolution photography and is a absolute expert on watches from independent watchmakers and of course A. Lange & Söhne. He frequently posts the most gorgeous watch photos on his blog.

He is the founding moderator for the Lange forum at Timezone.com, an Internet community forum which is not only the first watch discussion forum in the world but also the largest today.

Peter founded the Lange Owners Group or LOG, a global “club” exclusively for Lange owners, as its name implies which the brand endorses. There are currently more than 1,000 like-minded members who are united by their love for A. Lange & Söhne and fine watchmaking. The group holds a meeting at least once a year, generally during the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva while a pilgrimage to Lange Mecca in Glashütte is organised once every two years.

The book provides an insider look at A. Lange & Söhne: its early formative years, the special line of watches which are classified as “Pour le Mérite” and detailed technical descriptions of the watches, including the first documentation of the disassembly of a high end watch equipped with a tourbillon with fusée-and-chain.

Technical and craftsmanship is explored in detail. Within, a full description of how the tourbillon and fusée-and chain works. A whole section is devoted on Lange chronographs and why they are unique. Another section discusses the design language used in the watches.

An entire chapter in the book is dedicated to telling the stories of the enthusiasts who love the watches and willingly share this love with others. The fascinating stories of these connoisseurs are told in their own words. As an accomplished photographer, the author took great pains to make all the photographs which are in the book. Many of these are reproduced as full bleed A2 size, and others in A3 sized photographs, showing the beautiful details and magnificent finishing of the watches.

There will be four different editions of the book, of which 200 copies will be for owners of the original Tourbillon Pour le Mérite. The numbers will be limited to a total of 1,110 copies.

The “Pour le Mérite” A. Lange & Söhne Collection has a limited print run of 1,110 copies and is presented in 4 different editions:

Tranche A Deluxe Edition: This is made up of 200 copies which are not for sale. These will be presented to the current registered owners of the original TOURBILLON “Pour le Mérite” Ref. 701 and Ref. 751 with compliments of Lange Uhren. Each book will bear serial numbers matching those of the owner’s watches.
Tranche B Deluxe Edition: Only 8 copies, all of which are not for sale and each uniquely classified by one of the first eight letters of the alphabet (A to H), are reserved for the Publisher’s private collection. Up to 7 copies will be donated to selected charitable auctions.
Tranche C Deluxe Edition: A total of 201 Deluxe Edition copies, each of which is individually numbered, are available for public sale in this category.
Tranche D Regular Edition: A total of 701 Regular Edition copies are available for public sale in this category.

The price for the regular edition will be S$680, which equivalents $555 US or roughly €400 Euro. When compared to the Modani books, which costs up to €960 Euro, the price is definitely not too steep. Besides that, this is the first book about the A Lange & Söhne Collection and contains much information that was never published before. And of course… many magnificent photos. The book can be ordered directly via this form.

Let me finish this post with a photo made by Edwin, Peter’s co-moderator of the Timezone Lange und Söhne forum. It shows Edwin’s Tourbillon Pour le Mérite.

The book can be ordered directly via this form. More information and photos of the printing of the book can be viewed at Peter’s blog.

Weekly Watch Photo – A Lange und Sohne Double Split

mono — Mon, 11 Apr 2011 12:00:07 +0000

Weekly Watch Photo – A Lange und Sohne Double Split is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Sometimes it’s immediately obvious when I see a photo, that it is a perfect Weekly Watch Photo. This week impressive macro photos of the equally impressive movement of the A Lange und Söhne Double Split.

I was doing some catching up at the A. Lange und Söhne forum on Timezone, when I stumbled across this photo. Or actually I should say these photos in plural. Member Andreas Eck made a series of macro photos of the movement of the Lange und Söhne Double Split. Some say it is perhaps the most beautiful movement in the world…

The photo above is the first of a set of 18 photo, of which every next photo is getting closer and closer to the gears, in gold chaton set jewels, the perfect hand beveled levers and blued screws. A mimiature artwork.

The photo below is number 6 of the set, so they get ever more close.

Check out Andreas Eck’s photos of his Double Split at the Timezone – A. Lange und Söhne forum.

Weekly Watch Photo – Lange und Sohne Zeitwerk Striking Time

mono — Tue, 15 Mar 2011 15:07:51 +0000

Weekly Watch Photo – Lange und Sohne Zeitwerk Striking Time is a post from: Monochrome.nl

The Weekly Watch Photo of this weeks shows an extraoridnary beautiful striking watch, the Lange und Söhne Zeitwerk Striking Time. Photographed by Peter Chong.

Many watch aficionados where shocked, amazed, exilirated when the Lange und Söhne Zeitwerk was announced in May of 2009. The new Zeitwerk Striking Time has the same (for Lange und Söhne) unorthodox looks and features maybe the most beautiful way to incorporate a striking mechanism.

The Zeitwerk Striking Time is a so-called striking watch, which chimes every hour and quarter, unless turned off. The button at the 4 position enables the owner to select between strike or silent mode. When the strike mode is selected, the hammers and gongs will produce low notes on every hour and a high pitch notes on every quarter.

Again my sincere thanks go out to Peter Chong for the excellent photo. At his blog called Watchscapes you can see more photos of the Lange und Söhne Zeitwerk Striking Time (and many other timepieces!).

The A Lange und Söhne Zeitwerk Striking Time is available in platinum in a limited edition of 100 pieces with a rhodium dial and (unlimited) in white gold (as shown) with a black dial. Look at the Lange und Söhne website for more information.

Collecting chronographs

mono — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 09:45:46 +0000

Collecting chronographs is a post from: Monochrome.nl

Most collectors have a personal preference. Some collectors focus mainly on dive watches, some on chronograph and some have a ‘weak spot’ for a certain brand.

A good friend collects Cartier watches, not just any Cartier but mainly from the Collection Privee. Another good friend collects watches from A. Lange und Söhne and he has some extraordinary pieces. My initial personal preference in watches where chronographs and although my preference has changed to watches made by independent watchmakers, chronographs still have a special place in my ‘collectors heart’.

Unfortunately chronographs made by independent watchmakers are rare, very rare and not affordable for me. There are just a few existing chronograph calibers and these are used by most brands. Glashuette Original is one of the few big brands with their own chronograph caliber and it’s available in several model including the beautiful Senator Sixties Square Chronograph.

Jeff Stein, owner of one of my favorite websites Onthedash.com and collector of vintage chronographs, is interviewed at Collector’s Weekly. He speaks about how he got into watches in general and especially into vintage Heuer chronographs. An excellent read and especially interesting for everyone who’s interested in collecting watches.

Another great read, is Jeff Stein’s article Project 99. The article, existing of three parts, is entirely about the race for the first automatic chronograph. Although i’ve already linked to the articles from my post about the first automatic chronograph, i felt mentioning this great article is in order

Go here to read Collector’s Weekly’s interview with Jeff Stein.

SIHH vs. Baselworld

mono — Fri, 22 Jan 2010 15:20:54 +0000

SIHH vs. Baselworld is a post from: Monochrome.nl

One of the things that really amazed me this year was the lack of pre-releases before the Salon International de Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). Now the SIHH 2010 is almost finished, the pre-releases for Baselworld are already here!

The only serieous SIHH pre-release came from Lange und Söhne. In December i already posted the new Lange 1 Daymatic, which instantly became my favorite Lange 1 and probably my favorite from this great manufacterer from Germany. After the SIHH started earlier this week, press releases about new models all come at the same time. It’s impossible to cover them all, so i’ll show a few of my favorite models. One is another novelty of Lange und Söhne that is just so good i have to show it. For all new Lange und Söhne models, check out Perptuelle.com‘s overview.

Last year A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk was one of the biggest hits of the SIHH novelties. This year Lange und Söhne comes with another surprise, the Zeitwerk Luminous. Or as the people at Lange & Söhne called it, the Zeitwerk Phantom.

A. Lange und Söhne Zeitwerk Luminous... the Phantom?

Another watch that got me really exited comes from Girard Perregaux. And again it’s from the 1966 collection, a collection that got me exited before. The new Girard Perregaux 1966 Chronograph has the looks of a classic chronograph. The movement surprised me! It’s an automatic movement and i somehow expected to see a manually wound caliber. Girard-Perregaux movement GP030C0 is a column wheel chronograph with a 30 minute counter.

Girard Perregaux 1966 Chronograph

When i’m back from my vacation it’s time to share more about the Baselworld novelties!