Baselworld 2010 – Blancpain Villeret Moon Phase

Tags:

Blancpain has something to celebrate, their 275th anniversary. For this reason they introduce the Villeret Moon Phase and a new Villeret Collection.

I’m happy to see the new Villeret Moon Phase or Villeret Phase de Lune Demi-Savonnette as it’s called in French. It has the looks for which i have always liked Blancpain… slim, stylish, classic and timeless design. This is completely different from last year’s announcement to eliminate the beautiful Léman collection and replace it with the ‘loud’ L-Evolution collection.

The Villeret Moon Phase is the first of the Villeret collection to be unveiled. Although the name is Villeret Moon Phase, this classic beauty features a complete calendar with moon-phase. The indicators for day and date do not jump instantly, however the month indicator does.

Blancpain choose to use a so-called half-hunter case. This means the case-back has a lid that can be opened in order to see the movement. A full hunter case also has a lid that should be opened in order to see the time. The 18kt rose gold case has a diameter of 40mm and has a sapphire crystal on both sides.

The calendar mechanism is new and is a secure calendar mechanism with correctors under the lugs! These under-lugs correctors are patented by Blancpain and not only leaves the sides of the watches with a remarkably pure finish, but also means that changes can be accomplished with one’s finger tips instead of requiring a dedicated tool.

The movement is the automatic Blancpain in-house caliber 6654 (measuring 32mm x 5.32mm) with 28 jewels and a power reserve of 72 hours. It’s is fitted with a variable-inertia titanium balance wheel, gold regulation screws and three main spring barrels.

Usually watches with a calendar or moon phase complication have to be adjusted at a specific time of day, making sure all gears are in the correct position. If adjustments are made at the wrong time, this could damage the movement.

This Villeret model features a revolutionary method for adjusting the indications without fear of movement damage, regardless of the time of day. Every single indication can be actuated with the correctors at any time without any damage to the movement. An indication can be halfway through a change and you can push the actuator without risk.

I think the new Villeret Moon Phase looks great and has very nice features! A power reserve of 72 hours, the case has a decent size with it’s 40 mm and being able to adjust the calendar and moon phase indicators at any given moment without damaging the movement is also a great feature!

Share and Enjoy:
  • Facebook
  • LinkedIn
  • Twitter
  • Hyves
  • MySpace
  • email
  • RSS
  • Google Bookmarks
  • StumbleUpon
  • Published: Jan 31st, 2010
  • Category: Urwerk
  • Comments: None

SIHH 2010 – URWERK 203

Tags: , ,

URWERK released a new version in the 200 collection, the URWERK 203. It’s main difference with the rest of the collection, is that it reveals its micro-mechanics for all to see.

The URWERK 203’s case is made of black platinum, a great addition next to the rose & white gold and the AlTiN coated URWERK 202. AITiN was also used for the URWERK 103 Tarantula. However the main difference is it shows the robotic functions of URWERK’s mechanisms to show time.

Robotics? Yes robotics, because URWERK doesn’t use an hour and minute hand like the majority of mechanical watches. The satellite complication is the nerve centre of the UR-203, crafted from ARCAP P40, a stable non-ferrous and non-magnetic alloy. The intricate structure is skelletonized to reveal the internal clockwork. Within the UR-203 the cams, the rubies and the transporters that ensure the alignment of the telescopic hands indicating the minutes, are all revealed.

The telescopic minute hands precisely adjust their length to follow the three vectors marking the minutes: 0 -14; 15 – 44; 45 – 60. Extended, they enable the UR-203 to display the time across a large easy-to-read, dial. Retracted, they allow for a smaller, comfortably sized case providing the wearer with the best of both worlds.

To make a stripped down model distilled to its pure essence, like Martin Frei (URWERK co-founder and designer) wanted, they had to start again at the beginning. Felix Baumgartner, URWERK co-founder and master watchmaker, says they sat down at the drawing board and completely reconsidered the satellite module. “The horological challenge with this complication was to develop a complex mechanism with the minimum of components to ensure its reliability and longevity.

Now the carousel, hour satellites, telescopic minute hands and dial weigh 65% less than the proceeding model (UR-202). The satellite complication now tips the scales at a feather-light 3.57 grams.

URWERK 203

Click on the photo to enlarge

The dial shows an «Oil Change» indicator and a 150 year «Horological Odometer». The «Oil Change» indicator informs the wearer when a service is due; an operation recommended every three years of movement operation. Similar to the odometer of a car, the UR-203’s «Horological Odometer» keeps track of the total number of years of operation of the movement.

The UR-203 is also equipped with URWERK’s double turbine system, the same automatic winding system that is used in the watches of the 200 collection. The turbines are mounted on rubies and are controlled by a three-position lever offering the choice of « FREE », « SPORT » or « STOP ». The position determines the force available from the automatic rotor to wind the mainspring. FREE, where the turbines spin freely; SPORT, where the air pressure generated by the turbines reduces the winding rate by approximately 35%; and STOP, where the turbines and rotor are fully blocked. The speed of the turbines can reach a maximum 16,500 RPM.

Check out the URWERK website for more details and other models.

Share and Enjoy:
  • Facebook
  • LinkedIn
  • Twitter
  • Hyves
  • MySpace
  • email
  • RSS
  • Google Bookmarks
  • StumbleUpon

Baselworld 2010 – Glashütte Original

Tags: ,

Glashütte Original already shows us 2 of their new models for Baselworld. The new Senator Sixties PanorameDate and the PanoMaticLunar XL. I think we already have a winner!

The Glashütte Original Senator Sixties, which was released during Baselworld 2007, received massive applause from watch lover all around the world. In 2008 they released a chronograph version, that was also praised. Last year Glashütte Original released yet another version of the Senator Sixties, the Sixties Square Chronograph.

This year finally a version with the typical Glashütte Original Panorama Date, the Senator Sixties Panorama Date. The normal Senator Sixties is in my opinion a beautiful and stylish dress watch, however with addition of the Panorama Date it has a function that is great for daily wear at the office as well.

I think Glashütte Original did a good job positioning the Panorama Date not at the 3 position or between 4 and 5, but centered above the 6 position. This way the dial looks very balanced. Another good detail, GO paid attention to is the black date disks and the white numbers. Well done!

This new model is available with a black or silver dial. The black dial has silver Arabic numerals, white gold baton hour, minute and seconds hands and hour markers. The silver dial has black Arabic numerals, rose gold hands and hour markers and the Panorama Date has black numerals on a white background.

The 42 mm large stainless steel case is 3 mm bigger than the time-only version. Other features like the domed sapphire crystal in front (with anti-reflective coating on both sides) and the sapphire crystal in the back (single sided anti-reflective coating) that is shaped around the movement are still the same.

Until now the PanoMaticLunar XL was only available in rose and white gold. This year Glashütte Original releases a version in stainless steel and with a new dial color…. grey. After another PanoMatic XL model that totally rocked my boat, yet another model in this collection that i just adore. . I think it’s absolutely beautiful and i’m really looking forward to seeing it ‘in the metal’ during Baselworld.

All other specifications remain the same and can be found on the Glashütte Original website.

Share and Enjoy:
  • Facebook
  • LinkedIn
  • Twitter
  • Hyves
  • MySpace
  • email
  • RSS
  • Google Bookmarks
  • StumbleUpon

Linde Werdelin test almost over…

Tags:

And now the Linde Werdelin test is almost over, so is my vacation…

The 2-Timer has been on my wrist for the past 3,5 weeks, except when i rinsed the salt sea-water off and when making photos of the watch. The Linde Werdelin proved to be an absolute reliable partner for traveling, even if you’re going off the beaten track. With it’s rubber strap it was very comfortable to wear with 35 degrees Celsius during day time. Yes 35 degrees Celsius and it’s winter here in India… can you imagine? The sea water’s temperature is around 28 degrees, which is also no punishment.

Now a last photo before i’m going to write the test review…

Share and Enjoy:
  • Facebook
  • LinkedIn
  • Twitter
  • Hyves
  • MySpace
  • email
  • RSS
  • Google Bookmarks
  • StumbleUpon

© 2009 Monochrome – Fine watches. All Rights Reserved.

This blog is powered by Wordpress.